Author Topic: Stringswing wall and rack hangers (Read 537 times)

dean_m · « **Reply #15 on:** February 02, 2004, 07:32:11 AM »

Hey Guys,

I used to have them in my living room as well. Right as you walked in the door, they were right there on the wall. Then an earthquake hit.... (this is when we were living in California). They didn't fall but they never hung on the wall again either.
I do have reservations about hanging an instrument on anything. Off of your bass rig isn't so bad because on a stage, that might just be the safest place outside of it's case. Plus it's only hanging for the time you are on break. But to keep them on display that way really scares me now.
As noted before, I would make sure that the screw is secured into the wood frame (stud)rather than the wallboard (sheetrock).
That's just my 2 cents though.

xlrogue6 · « **Reply #16 on:** February 02, 2004, 08:24:50 AM »

I'd suggest using better anchors than the mollies String Swing provides. Here in the States you can get sheet rock anchors that are basically a large self-drilling self tapping screw that accomodates a #8 sheet metal screw in the center--way more solid in my experience than mollies.

Kent

bassman10096 · « **Reply #17 on:** February 02, 2004, 08:35:25 AM »

Kent is right. Even the plastic version of what he describes is both more secure and even easier to use than the mollie bolts that usually come with hangers. Basically, you are screwing the whole thing into the gypsum board, giving you a continuous edge that bites into the wall rather than the mollies, which once expanded and put under any pressure away from the wall, actually serve as a wedge to work their way OUT of the wall. I have had bad experiences with mollies and none with the sheet rock anchors Kent described.
That's my home improvement rant for the day!

Bill

kayo · « **Reply #18 on:** February 02, 2004, 09:15:11 AM »

Awesome collection!

My only concern (and this is primarily because I live in earthquake prone SF Bay Area, CA - would be the likelihood of the sheetrock to give in - in the event of a formidably ranked quake (say anything over a 6.0 that lasts more than 30 seconds ).

That could easily be worked around by using a stud finder, or by obatining a nice stong piece of thick wood to reinforce the wall with.

Outside of these fears - I'd love to duplicate what you've done!!!

kayo · « **Reply #19 on:** February 02, 2004, 09:16:11 AM »

Awesome collection!

My only concern (and this is primarily because I live in earthquake prone SF Bay Area, CA - would be the likelihood of the sheetrock to give in - in the event of a formidably ranked quake (say anything over a 6.0 that lasts more than 30 seconds ).

That could easily be worked around by using a stud finder, or by obtaining a nice stong piece of thick wood to reinforce the wall with.

Outside of these fears - I'd love to duplicate what you've done!!!

kayo · « **Reply #20 on:** February 02, 2004, 09:18:37 AM »

Awesome collection!

My only concern (and this is primarily because I live in earthquake prone SF Bay Area, CA - would be the likelihood of the sheetrock to give in - in the event of a formidably ranked quake (say anything over a 6.0 that lasts more than 30 seconds ).

That could easily be worked around by using a stud finder, or by obtaining a nice stong piece of thick wood to reinforce the wall with.

Outside of these fears - I'd love to duplicate what you've done!!!

palembic · « **Reply #21 on:** February 02, 2004, 10:18:35 AM »

This is going weird!
As I understand Brother Jan the river one needs a Paul as a stud to screw his basses
at the shitrock. He has to take care with earthquakes?
I think you all should come over and check out Jan's house. That's an Alambic with doors and a roof!!! You bet!!
We build very strong over here. Bonnie hangs in the living room on a hanger (not stringswings but a real ugly one) for ...euh ....1,2,3 ...8 years now!
We even had an earthquake ...well ...a teeenyweeny one.
I even live at 50 meters from the railway were heavy loaded traincargo's pass every 10 minutes. After the 18 years we live here you don't hear it but I can imagine the vibrations.
Solid with good plugs!

Paul the bad one

Jan R · « **Reply #22 on:** February 02, 2004, 11:58:03 AM »

Like Paul said, I don't follow the suggestions about studs, sheetrock, wallboards, mollies etc.... because we build our houses and walls completely different than in the US.

I used my own plugs and screws (check the picture above) and not the plastic ones Stringswing delivered. I don't think it is necessary to reinforce our walls with some extra things like wood etc. The walls inside the house are made of thick red bricks of approximately 10-inch depth! On both sides of the walls, we place a kind of white primarily decoration material like you see on the pictures (Paul help me with this, how do you say bezetten? or ?plakken in English?). We normally paint or decorate with paper straight on that white material. The plugs fit into the brick real nice. When you put the screws in, the plugs open a little bit further, so they can't move anywhere without breaking the brick which is way to strong.

Don?t bother about earthquakes here in Belgium. In my entire live, I never experienced one, but I can imagine our US friends think completely different about this.

I?ve just checked the collection: after 48 hours they are doing fine. I feel more relaxed now

Cheers
Jan

u14steelgtr · « **Reply #23 on:** February 02, 2004, 02:09:55 PM »

Jan; I have concerns about storing instruments so close to the brick you describe. Brick and concrete in the proximity of wood _can_ over-dry wood and/or glue if the environment is not kept adequately humidified.

I learned my lesson about proximity to concrete and masonry the expensive way. I loaned a beautiful 00-size guitar to a friend about 15 years ago. While on loan the guitar was stored in its Anvil case by a cinderblock wall. I had not provided the borrower a humidifier to keep in the case. The combination of very dry 50-plus year old hide glue and very dry wood under string tension lead to a cracked neck block. The string tension pulled the neck forward a bit and the necks dovetail joint spread the 2 halves of the cracked neck block apart creating cracks in the sides of the guitar where the sides were glued to the neck block.

Several hundred (late 1980?s) dollars later the cracks were reglued and cleated, and the guitar was fully repaired. However the reset of the neck meant replacing the bridge and the guitar has never sounded as good as it did before the accident. I will re-plane the bridge some time and bring the instruments sound back closer to its formal glory.

I now keep and _maintain_ the humidifiers in my instrument cases diligently. To this day I still feel guilty about my ignorance and about the subsequent injury which the guitar sustained and has never fully recovered from.

My Alembic came from its previous owner with numerous hairline craks in the finish where the laminations are bonded. I suspect that it got that way as a result of storage similar to what my beloved little 00 was subjected.

Regards
-- Eugene

(Message edited by u14steelgtr on February 03, 2004)

palembic · « **Reply #24 on:** February 02, 2004, 10:46:46 PM »

Now brother Eugene that's quite a statement there. So if I understand it right brick wall and concrete are sucking humidity out of the air. So hanging a bass close to a brick or concrete wall places the instrument in a high-dried air-zone? Ergo: not so good for the instrument.
Or am I overreacting here?
With the OO-size guitar you describe a f.i. Martin-style acoustic??

Paul the bad one