Brass nut

[Billy Goddamn Willis]

My 1978 series 1 has a solid brass nut. I have read that Alembics have adjustable nuts. Any idea why mine is solid? It had a refinish and LED side markers added that were not stock. I'm guessing it got changed to a solid then. Why not the adjustable put in place? I have a slight buzz when open E played and dont know best path forward with solid set nut.
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

[cozmik_cowboy]

The adjustable nut was a later development; I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than I (Michael?  You reading this?)  will chime in with when it came about.

Peter

[StephenR]

Hey Billy, I own a 78 Series bass and it also has a solid brass nut, The adjustable nuts were a later development.

Sounds like either you need to check the set-up on the bass and adjust to taste or you may have a high fret somewhere. Can you tell where on the neck (low, high or somewhere in the middle) the buzz occurs? I know this is harder when it involves an open string but would be helpful in figuring out what is up. Does it buzz if you pluck/pick near the neck or does it buzz wherever you pluck including near the bridge?

Also, if the strings are old or you just got a wonky one, that can also lead to issues. I am sure you will get other feedback, good luck getting it sorted out...

[edwardofhuncote]

Agree with Stephen, sounds like one or two of the first frets is bucked, and need reseating. A couple [experienced] raps with a fretting hammer might solve it. Truss rods may be a tweak too tight. That it's only the open E seems like the trouble is closer to the nut. Something about the geometry isn't right. A straight edge will find it.


If it really is a low slot in a brass nut (unlikely, but possible) then fashion a tiny, thin shim of foil and CA glue it in the offending slot.


Not that I would ever jump in front of Michael, but it's late-'81 on adjustable nuts. I have serial number 81D-1986 with a birthday of Dec. 11th, and it has an adjustable. I'm guessing there is no hard date or number that every instrument before/after this or that conforms to... mine is simply an earlier version. Why didn't your bass get one during the refin...? Probably the original cleaned up fine and the customer didn't request it.

[rv_bass]

For additional reference, my 78 from mid-November does not have an adjustable nut.

[FC Bass]

The adjustable nut came in the early 80's, IIRC '82.
My '79 has the solid version, '83 Spoiler has the adjustable nut.

[edwin]

I'm pretty sure that 78-1180 had an adjustable nut.

[KR]

Tune it up and then check the straightness of the neck on the E string side. If the neck is very straight then loosen that truss rod a 1/4 turn or so or even almost slack on some Alembics. Then measure your string height on the E string between the 12th fret and the bottom of the string. If it's set low (2mm or so) that can be the problem, so try raising it up to 3mm.  If that doesn't help put a new set of strings on the bass and see if that helps. You can order one and have Alembic send you a adjustable unit, or I put this one on my '77 Series 1 https://m.thomannmusic.com/warwick_just_a_nut_iii_brass_4_str_44.htm

[KR]

Importantly, with LED's in that neck, ---don't--- let anyone hammer on those frets or you will take out an LED--I know this for a fact.

[edwardofhuncote]

That is an excellent point Keith, thanks. Didn't think about those LEDs. I've never asked, or had a reason to, but how do they install frets in an LED-equipped bass/guitar to start with? 


If there's a danger they can be reseated with a fret press, if in fact found to be bucked. I'd also wick some CA glue under the fret end before I did.

[KR]

Greg, LED's take some know how that's for sure. If it is a deep nut slot your filler idea is a good one. The addition of baking soda will make the slot filler really hard.