Author Topic: Bass instrument cable (Read 759 times)

flpete1uw · « **Reply #15 on:** July 08, 2012, 07:32:59 PM »

This may sound a bit contrarian however I must have built, soldered, and constructed thousands of cables, harness and patchbays in my career in Audio Recording Studios. My question for you all is if you use a decent connector ( Switchcraft, Neutrix etc.) a decent well shielded cable, solder correctly and strain relief properly . If taken care of properly what could possibly go wrong? I have been using some of my cables for decades and never even thought of the cabling being an issue. I can see the length of the cable being an issue eventually because of capacitor signal loss though. Curious.
Peace
Pete

David Houck · « **Reply #16 on:** July 08, 2012, 08:53:44 PM »

Pete; unfortunately for me, I have no soldering skills. I wish I did. At various times in my life, I've tried; even bought a book on soldering once a long time ago. But I've always ended up just making a mess of things.

But I do agree with you. A couple Neutriks and some Canare, a few hits with a soldering iron; and your done. And personally, I would rather purchase cables from an individual who did the work themselves rather than buy mass produced cables. But yes, I would much rather make my own cables, if I wasn't so bad at it.

briant · « **Reply #17 on:** July 08, 2012, 09:54:34 PM »

Pete,

I agree with you that pretty much any cable if taken care of properly can last a very long time; if not forever. A friend of mine has had the same generic cables for at least 10 years if not more. He gigs/rehearses about as much as I do which is to say ~8 times a month both total.

In the end you're 100% correct. If you have decent cable and put good connectors on it you're going to have a solid cable that will last.

I've made a lot of cables as well. I sat for three nights and soldered speaker and XLR cables for an entire sound system for one band I was in. We never had a cable fail.

For the money I've had really great luck with Mogami for off the shelf. I've used Monster Cable in the past and they have eventually failed at the jack. I had similar replacement experiences as Bill above (send it back to Monster). That's awful. I've also experienced the jack stretching pains that certain lines of Monster cable tend to induce. So for that reason I avoid Monster now as well. Can't have a cable fail and then have an emergency cable flop around in the loose jack.

I'm rambling. I agree with you. If people don't have the skills to solder their own cables I always suggest Mogami because of the reliability.

hieronymous · « **Reply #18 on:** July 08, 2012, 11:32:43 PM »

One thing I really regret is not learning soldering from my dad. But I'm glad that I was able to hang around and watch him solder the guts of my guitar when I found an article with an alternate wiring scheme in Guitar Player magazine back in the '80s & '90s!

I've been using a Bullet Cable Coily Cable for a while - just bought it on a whim, thought later, hey, isn't this cable longer than necessary with all those coils? But it hasn't given me any problems and hey, Paul Gilbert uses them, so it can't be that bad can it? :/

(Message edited by hieronymous on July 08, 2012)

poor_nigel · « **Reply #19 on:** July 09, 2012, 04:22:40 AM »

In the past I had problems with a couple of Monster cables not fitting my 1/4 jacks of my Alembic Anniversary bass. I called Monster and discussed it with them. They were aware of the problem. They sent me double the cables back for my hassle (4), and I was satisfied with the results received. These days I generally use Monster Pro 1000 cable to my rack and throughout my rack now. Zero problems - happy camper - this is a pricy venture, though.

A couple of months ago I bought my friend a couple Monster 'Rock' cables off eBay for his birthday, to replace the ones his new puppy chewed into shreds. One came in with a dead end, so I called Monster (I would have to go along with Joey on no strain relief on these cheap cables - They are made well, but I was surprised when I opened the bad jack up and checked it out). I got some girl on the phone, Becky. She said they do not cover anything bought on eBay from non-authorized sellers. I told her OK, but if that was to be their attitude, I would have to stop using their products and they would lose a customer who has literally spent thousands on just cabling from them over the years. She that That fine.'

Wow, I am the nicest guy on the block until someone crosses the line with me. I went into bad customer mode and demanded her manager. She said she would connect me, but could not guarantee I would get him. Grrrrr . . . I ended up in his voice-mail, and was primed by them to rant his ear off. I left my number and went to their site to e-mail them. Before I could finish the e-mail the manger called, told me they were having a lot of problems on eBay with people and non-cable items, apologized countless times, and put two cables in the mail for me. A worker that says it is fine to lose a customer is one that does not want to keep their job long in this tight job market we live in. I hope Becky is doing fine at the yogurt shop or where ever she landed, as I could read in the manager's voice his displeasure in that bit of small talk she handed out.

Anyway . . . I'm still using Monster cables until I do end up with a serious problem with them. Then I will switch to another brand I have heard good things about (I have read a lot of good stuff about Mogami cables). Pro 1000 cables are a bit different than Monster's others. If you play with one, you will instantly know the difference, even just picking one up. Some people may not like such a heavy cable that is hard to 'kink' and is not 'rubber' coated. I like Zaolla cables, too, nice and thick and have a solid silver core, but the price has gone up with the price of silver, so Monster Pro 1000's are cheaper these days, and Zaolla does not make rack length cables, just instrument ones. Maybe when I am done with the Zaollas, I can sell them for scrap silver? OK, I'm done yakking . . .

mario_farufyno · « **Reply #20 on:** July 09, 2012, 04:34:45 AM »

coils may impact an audio signal increasing cable inductance. that makes them more sensible to picking up magnetic fields interference (as RFI or AC hum) and can block higher harmonics due to inductive reactance. But seems that this undesired effects are being effectively controled by your series electronics and frequency loss isn't relevant or too far to be felt/heard

mario_farufyno · « **Reply #21 on:** July 09, 2012, 05:13:59 AM »

I make my own cables, you just need the thickest cable you can find (thick conductor, thick inner insulation and thick shielding). This reduces impedance, increasing signal level and reducing induced noises. It is also important to use braided shielding and opt for easy bending cables. Look for the lowest capacitance you may find to preserve lows of your bass and try using Neutrik plugs (or any top brand).

Avoid foil shield, it is superior in insulating noises but they can break easier. This is ideal in a fixed instalation, like the one we use in studios, but not that good if you will be constantly unplugging, twisted and keeping it rolled in a gig bag (also being stepped in a dark stage).

But let me warn you that cable isn't a thing that worth to save money. A top bass going trough a cheap cable will be leveled by the weakest element in your signal chain, like if you use a noisy cheesy pedal.

yogalembic · « **Reply #22 on:** July 09, 2012, 05:16:00 AM »

Belden #8412 mic cable (2 conductor + shield), solder one end of shield to neg. lead and lift shield on the other end, (2) Switchcraft #280 plugs, heat shrink 280 and cable, voila!

Custom length instrument/pedal board cables, have used them for years and years and years.

Had the opportunity to compare one of my 16' cables with the guitarists oh-my-gosh-you-gotta-try-this-cable-it-sounds-incredible $120.00, 12' instrument cable rip off. Mine was crisper, cleaner and had every bit the clear low end.

Pardon me, you paid HOW MUCH for this?

It's all subjective and, as always, comes down to personal taste. Meanwhile, I've heard great things and have read very positive reviews in regard to Planet Waves cables.

mario_farufyno · « **Reply #23 on:** July 09, 2012, 05:23:40 AM »

Amphenol conectors can be a fine alternative to Neutrik.

lbpesq · « **Reply #24 on:** July 09, 2012, 07:41:30 AM »

Doesn't the preamp in an Alembic negate the capacitance issue and allow long cable runs without loss, as opposed to a passive instrument?

Bill, tgo

tubeperson · « **Reply #25 on:** July 09, 2012, 08:12:56 AM »

For new twist on cables, I was in Newington CT the past 2 weeks. I visited Upscale Music which is an authorized Fender repair shop. Mario Sousa is a fabulous technician with respect to guitars and electronics and runs a school to show one how to build and run a small home studio. He builds cables using Canare cable wires and Neutrik tips. An 18 ft cable ran less than 30 dollars. They are super quiet, and reveal the slightest noise in your chain which depending on your view is either excellent or a horror show. I want the details and if I have a problem somewhere else in the chain, I will address it. Very highly recommended for Fender repairs as well as the house cable. Really nice people to deal with. I think with Monster Cables you pay as much for their name and advertising as you do for an actual product. Same with Mogami (I am a nut job audiophile as well so both names although lower in that chain are well known to me).

Glynn · « **Reply #26 on:** July 09, 2012, 08:20:23 AM »

I have been using Monster Pro Bass cable with my Orion for some time and all OK. The plug fit is tighter than others but works fine. I will stick my neck out and say that there is a slight (very slight but noticeable) difference in sound. The Monster has the effect of adding a bit more bass to the sound by removing treble. If I hadn't compared side by side though I probably would not have noticed. I have had to get used to the stiffness of the Monster. I have had good results with other basses from Mike Hill cables Milton Keynes UK who makes them up to order. I chose Van Damme Pro grade cable (coils beautifully) plus Neutrik silent plugs. I always am happy to pay ?25 upwards.

edwin · « **Reply #27 on:** July 09, 2012, 02:41:08 PM »

I agree with Pete. Making your own is always a good way to go. Soldering isn't that hard and if any of you are in Colorado and don't feel confident about your skills, get in touch, come on over, we'll spend an hour soldering and by the end of it, you'll be making cables like a pro. I wish my dad had taught me and I fully intend to teach Xander.

Also, Bill is correct. With an active bass, 99.9% of the capacitance issues are moot for a cable less than 100 feet at least.

I use Mogami cable and Neutrik ends.

David Houck · « **Reply #28 on:** July 09, 2012, 03:34:35 PM »

(Free soldering lessons! .. and a chance to meet Edwin! Let's see; how long would it take to drive from Asheville to Boulder?) (Oh; that long ...) (sigh)

lbpesq · « **Reply #29 on:** July 09, 2012, 04:45:10 PM »

Dave:

Perhaps you can stop off at Edwin's on your way out to the Northern California Gathering next spring. I'll even supply a soldering iron and some solder so you can practice your newfound skills!

Bill, tgo