Stringing

[frank]

Whenever I'm stringing my orion I always have one problem. the Tailpiece doesn't hold the string in place. I have to leave it out of the bridge and tailpiece until there is enough tension for the string to stay in the tailpiece.  
 
I was wondering if anyone has a good solution to this problem.

[bassman10096]

I know it's a bit a of a pain, but I kind of like bridges and tailpieces where the string floats till tension is on.  The reason is that getting the string wrapped around the tuner capstan and getting the slack tightened down always seems to create a bit of twist.  Given that, I want the other end to rotate freely (to undo the twist) for as long as possible.  Sometimes begs for a third hand, but managable.  The payoff is less chance of twisted, dead strings.

[frank]

ya, that does make sense.

[jazzyvee]

I can tell you from my experience, trying to change a string break on a big gig I was so pleased that I didn't have to find the whole in the back of the guitar to push the string through all the time hoping the broken string wasn't stuck in the whole and blocking the way for the new string.  
 
Sotting the string in is much easier in those situations.  Especially if you have a whammy bar and the holes are not lined up with the slot in the backplate.... Cursing becomes very fluent.
 
The worst was the parker Fly guitar I had, When a string broke in that it was a nightmare to change as the string locking mechanism in the tuners meant that you could only slide the string in when the hole was in a certain position. On a dark stage it was virtually impossible. it was sacked and sold after that gig. lol
 
 
I think Alembic have it right. It's something I don't even think about anymore.

[frank]

Those would be problems more associated with string-through-body bridges. I find the bridge on my dads 60s p-bass the easiest to use with regards to stringing.
 
I know my brother, who plays a strat (w/ tremolo) has definitly had the problem with getting broken stings stuck in the the body-through part.  
 
I am willing to make the extra-effort stringing to play such a great bass though. plus I love the look of the bridge and tailpiece on my orion.  
 
by the way jazzy, I love that orion guitar on your profile...is it baritone? Looks wicked!

[u14steelgtr]

The trick is detailed in step #5 (below).
 
1. Put the string throught the tuning machine.
 
2. Put the ball-end of the string in to the tailpeice and adjust the string length (approximately) by sliding the string in the tuning machine.  
 
3. Make a slight bend in the string where the string passes through the tuning machine. This marks the adjustment in step 2.  
 
4. Remove the ball-end of the string from the tailpeice and make 1 wrap around the tuning machine post, then re-insert the ball-end in to the tailpeice.  
 
5. With one hand pull the string away from the body (to maintain string tension) and use the other hand to operate the knob on the tuning machine until the string is snugly seated in the tailpeice.
 
6. Bring the string up to pitch.  
 
Regards
-- Eugene
 
(Message edited by u14steelgtr on June 09, 2008)

[bassman10096]

Step #5 was the step I meant when I said, Sometimes begs for a third hand, but managable.  The key to avoiding twist is in step #4.  Your instructions are foolproof and hopefully will help someone prevent a dead string or two.

[frank]

nice. Thanks.
 
Any tips for measuring how long to make the string before cutting it? I have a 5 string so the machine heads go 3 and t2 on he headstock. I like to have at least 2-3 turns around the post.

[cozmik_cowboy]

Hey, Frank, here's a tip for your brother - I always keep the ball end of an old low E near the Strat; clip it so there's about 1.5-2 of string on it.  When a broken string gets stuck, poke it in from the top.  Hasn't failed me yet.  
 
Peter

[u14steelgtr]

If the guess-timated length is long enough that you can re-insert the ball-end in to the tailpeice (step 4); the you will get atleast your 2-3 wraps around the post.
 
-E

[u14steelgtr]

I do not cut the string until it is up to pitch and is holding pitch.
 
-E

[pauldo]

Any tips for measuring how long to make the string before cutting it?  
 
It took me several years but I have 'landmarks' that I use on my Distillate - the E* and G strings get cut about a half inch past the end of the A and D tuner pegs. The A and D strings get cut at the bottom of the cloud on the Alembic design. This gives me approximately 3 wraps.  
 
*The E string actually gets cut shorter because I have a Hip-Shot D-tuner that has a shorter post and can not fit 3 wraps without doubling up.
 
Try doing something similar with your Orion - it should serve you well.
 
cheers

[keurosix]

Frank,  
This is for basses:
I usually insert the ball into the tailpiece, bring the string up to it's tuning post, curl over the top and go past ~ the width of my hand. I cut the string using a heavy wire cutter (only on the silk wrap portion). Keeping the string pulled tight, I insert the cut end into the center of the tuning post, bend down at the slot of the post and wrap at least the first turn around the post by hand. The rest easily wraps up by the tuning key. I always get 3 wraps on the peg using this method, and you can easily unhook the ball to untwist the string once the first wrap is on the post. My advise is to make sure the string you use is a match to the scale length of your guitar, or else you might end up with wrap in the nut or speaking length on the peg, both undesireables. Some strings do not have a silk wrap (DR is one) and I just make sure I do not cut too far into the string. I have not had a problem with the cut end captured inside the center of the tuning peg. It won't unravel since I also put a 90 deg bend in the string as it comes out of the tuning peg slot. Eugene's method of cutting the string after it is at pitch requires you to allow the uncut extra to dangle out of the tuner and cut it as close to the side as you can get. This leaves a rough cut end that can grab onto things and scratch clothes, etc. IMO it looks less clean.
Kris

[frank]

sounds like a good technique, but what do you mean by ...curlover the top and go past ~ the width of my hand.

[dannobasso]

For me , put ball end in tailpiece,  
lay string over the nut, (while bass is on my lap)  
measure the width of 4 fingers past the tuning peg ( the ol' is this knife illegal test) cut the string,  
put the newly cut end of the string down center hole,  
wrap around the peghead, ( remember which side of the pegehead it must go on)
tension (tune) the string while using right hand to hold tension on the string close to the nut.  
Bring it to pitch, tug on it roughly, bring to pitch again and repeat as needed.  
I only change 1 string at a time.  
For guitars, I use sperzels so no issues there.