Author Topic: How low should I go on upright? (Read 175 times)

pauldo · « **on:** March 26, 2015, 03:43:02 PM »

My upright had the bridge modified to be adjustable about 10 years ago. Things have settled and the bridge is set at its lowest setting, the action is still playable.

My question is how low can/ should the action on my upright be? Is an 1/8 too low?

Should I have a professional lower it? I hear that if you tape sand paper to the body and rub the feet of the bridge on it that you can retain the proper profile and shorten the bridge . . . or would removing material from the area where the adjustment screws are be preferred? I don't know how deep the holes are on the adjustment screws, which may mean drilling and tapping.

I also have a concern that when the strings and bridge are removed that the sound post may shift. I was planning on using a coat hanger to make a sound post holding tool to prevent it from dropping. The next question would be if the sound post moves, how critical is it to get it back to the exact location?

moongerm · « **Reply #1 on:** March 26, 2015, 04:51:55 PM »

I would take it to a pro. I take mine anytime I get string change, about 2 times a year. I am 30 min outside NYC so it's convenient for me to take it to Bill Merchant or to Sprocket @ David Gage. My action is a little over 1/8th (almost 3/16ths) at the end of the fingerboard.

best, Brian

hankster · « **Reply #2 on:** March 26, 2015, 07:27:10 PM »

Take it to a pro. It doesn't matter how young you are, there are not enough years left to make up for the ones you will lose trying to deal with what happens when you take the pressure off the top to sand your bridge and the soundpost falls over. Or moves. But trust me, it will fall over.

edwardofhuncote · « **Reply #3 on:** March 26, 2015, 08:10:55 PM »

Paul, it just so happens I'm fitting a new bridge to one of my customer's basses tomorrow. I'll post some pictures of the details, but as noted above, if the sound-post has been correctly installed, it will almost certainly topple once the pressure (from string tension) is released. A sound-post setting tool is not difficult to learn to use, and not prohibitively expensive either. I know guys that carry one in their bow case, and move the theirs a couple times a year.

FWIW, 1/8 action is pretty darn low. I typically set action for steel strings up at 7mm clearance on the G, and 11mm for the E. Higher for the gut and various synthetic gut strings currently available for pizz playing.

edwardofhuncote · « **Reply #4 on:** March 30, 2015, 02:25:24 PM »

Hey Paul, I'm having some trouble shrinking the pictures for posting, but if you're thinking of going the D-I-Y route, first of all, order yourself one of these:

http://www.internationalviolin.com/ProductDetail/t81_sound-post-setter-bass

and one of these:

http://www.internationalviolin.com/ProductDetail/t915_bass-soundpost-retriever

They are extremely easy to learn to use... I can't believe how many years I did it the hard way. Setting a soundpost is a 10-second job now.

pauldo · « **Reply #5 on:** March 31, 2015, 04:31:01 AM »

Gregory,
Thanks for the links. I actually have one of those 'retriever' tools in my garage. Although the consensus seems to lean me towards taking it in to someone. With the weather warming getting my 81 XJ650 ready is becoming a priority.

Now that the subject is breached; where is the 'ideal' sound post position?

Thanks for the replies.

edwardofhuncote · « **Reply #6 on:** March 31, 2015, 07:13:44 AM »

Yeah, those retrievers are a must!

Re: soundpost location - I generally start with the soundpost's center about 1 to 1-1/4 below the center of the bridge's treble foot, and adjust from there. (imagine an X on the top of the soundpost, and an X on the bottom of the bridge foot as center points)

The ideal location depends very much on the individual instrument. Some basses it makes a huge difference, others less, but from a structural standpoint, probably less than a square inch of real estate is the adjustment zone. The fit of the post is as important as location... not too tight, not too loose either. As noted above, it should topple easily if string tension is relieved. I've had to push them out before... found them glued in, even nailed in. =)

I'll write a longer post on fitting a bridge and soundpost sometime to go with the pictures... What you need doesn't sound like a big job for any competent shop. If you were closer I'd fix you up in an hour or so... Hit my email contact anytime. Good luck!