OK Everyone...Greenhorn Question

[rv_bass]

If I want the strings below the 12th fret to be closer to the fretboard, do I loosen or tighten the truss rod?  Please excuse my ignorance.  Thanks!

[adriaan]

Just go by Joey's legendary post ... http://club.alembic.com/index.php?topic=311.0


Tightening the rods might do the trick, and/or lowering the nut, or quite the opposite. Also depends on what your starting point is.

[rv_bass]

Thanks for the reply, Adriaan, appreciate it.  I’m doing this on an acoustic guitar.  After trial and error I found that tightening the truss rod brings the strings closer to the fretboard below the 12th fret, as well as at other areas along the fretboard, at least from my starting point with this attempt. - Rob

[edwardofhuncote]

Rob, when you say 'below', directionally speaking, are you referencing frets 1-11, or frets 12-20?

Generally, tightening a truss-rod will take relief out of a neck, thereby getting the strings closer to the frets. Once you get much past the 12th fret though, there isn't much truss-rod action left. Time for a saddle height adjustment at that point.   

[StephenR]

Always helpful to read or revisit Joey's post but now we know you are setting up a guitar. Same procedure though...

Not sure if this will help you grok the function of the truss rod but in summer/warmer drier weather I have to tighten my truss rod so the action is good for all frets under the 12th, in the winter/rainy season I always have to loosen it to put relief back in the neck in the same area. Once I get the action set where I want at the bridge I try to isolate any further changes and fine tuning to making truss rod adjustments. For me that method has been the most predictable and reliable, especially in maintaining the correct string height/intonation above the 12th fret. If you raise the bridge to try and add relief below the 12th fret the action above the 12th fret gets too high which will also affect intonation in that register. Generally a good idea to re-check intonation after a seasonal truss rod adjustment.

[hammer]

Once last piece of advice if you go the truss rod approach whether its a guitar or bass... Adjustment needs to be in small increments (1/4 turn) and then waiting a day or two for the neck to settle in.

[rv_bass]

Thanks very much for the responses everyone, much appreciated!   One clarification, I am doing this on a non-Alembic acoustic guitar with a fixed bridge that is standard on acoustic guitars.

Greg, I’m referring to frets 12-20., and thanks for the clarification on tightening and relative height response.

Stephen, interesting your dry season is the summer and wet/ humid season is the winter, the opposite of the seasonal changes in the northeast, but I adjust the same way for corresponding dry/ wet-humid seasonsn so good to have that confirmation!

Brian, thanks for the reminder about the 1/4 turn and day delay, very important.

I am now heading in the right direction with this…thanks again!
Rob

[edwardofhuncote]

Rob, I can email you some fairly specific pointers on setup for acoustics this weekend if you need. Send me a couple pics. I hope desperately to be in my shop a while each afternoon.

Here's a quick check; put a capo on the 1st fret, (this eliminates the nut height from being factored in) and then hold the top E string down at the 12th or 14th fret, whichever one is where the neck joins the body, check neck relief that way, and adjust the truss rod accordingly. If the strings are still too high off the fingerboard, you may need to lower the saddle. If the saddle cannot be lowered, the neck angle may need adjustment. (this is easier on some guitars than others) 

[rv_bass]

Greg, thanks very much for those suggestions, I will give that a go!