It's no issue when it comes to these very thin veneers. On March 14th I said, It's a really small amount of wood, I actually don't think you'll hear the difference if we use one or two pinstripes and I haven't revised my position, so I think you're safe with your top choice of #3.

Cool beans!  Thanks for the word!

Because of the carved top, all Tributes look less symmetrical.  
 
Here is a piece that looks like it will suit your tastes:

This is just roughly chalked in, slightly oversized. We'd also angle it slightly to get the central lines closer to parallel.

THANKS A BUNCH, MICA, IT LOOKS AWESOME!!!
 
Uhm... is that piece the back, or the front flipped over?  It looks like there's a horn there, so I'm guessing it's one or the other.
 
It looks beautiful, and it looks like I'll probably have some nice concentrics near the controls -as well as the lines I requested in the middle, to disguise the BTC.
 
Have y'all decided if I'm going to have the front and back made from the same board or not?  Just curious, as stated before, I leave this decision in your capable hands.
 
Thanks again for this picture, I've really been jone-zing to see this!!!

This is a piece of lumber. I traced the larger body half so you could see if you liked the piece as much as we thought you might. I'll ask Bob to get the board resawn so you can view the bookmatches. I think this will be thick enough to get both the top and back cut, but I'll let you know after it goes through the bandsaw.

Mark, I can't wait to see the bookmatch. Looks like itz gonna B AWESOME! Drool, slurp, drooooollll.......
 
The Ho....

Thanks, Ho!
 
Mica, the more I look at this, the more I'm sold on this piece of wood!
 
However, as I look at it, I'm trying to envision what portions of it would look best being cut out for the top/back.
 
The tentative rough outline you traced looks pretty good.  It looks like it would be easy for you to line up the lines in the center to disguise the BTC.  But I think it might look even better (not sure) if the outline were moved up to the top (in addition to being slightly angled) so I could get more/all/most of that really cool big eye on my top -and also more concentrics on the outside.
 
For clarification, I'm referring to the concentric-ish large figure more or less in the dead center of the board in the picture.  To the right are two adjacent little eyes I love, and also a single eye in the horn.  I can't have it all, so I think we'll probably have to sacrifice the little eye in the horn when we angle it.  I think I'd like it if the outline (of the horn) were lifted up to the upper (in the picture) edge of the board, and also the rest of the outline.  An easier way of describing this idea might be to imagine you just shaved off an inch or two off the lower edge of the board, and lifted/angled the horn up a bit.
 
As I look at that board, I see 3 sections.  As you go left to right (or right to left) there is a really cool section in the middle, that has the big eye in the center, and the smaller eyes to the right, and the eye in the horn.  Above and below this really cool section are two mainly liney areas.  Now I think I'd like to get a little more (maybe as much as possible -without sacrificing the disguised BTC objective) of this really cool area on my top/back.  And again, this looks like it would also get me a little more concentric figuring by where the electronics would be (and on the mirror side).
 
I'd like to see a trace-line outline for what I've described, at your convenience.  I tried to make a little outline-thing out of paper, but it was half-assed.
 
Alternatively, another thing that intrigues me would be to FLIP the outline, that is, to imagine the UPPER edge of the board (in the picture) being the center line/line of symettry.  I like the pinch/pinching that's around the date 4/10/07 that you have chalked in on the board... it looks neat.  The only concern would be if that figuring wouldn't line up right... BUT it looks like the fingerboard and or truss rod plate and/or pickups would be there, so it wouldn't be an issue -at least for the top.  That way, you could get most of the really cool area in the middle on my top, and what you have as the outer edge would become the center, and what you have as the center would be the outer edge... and it looks like it would be full of concentrics!!!  The lines on the top seem more parallel to begin with.
 
So in summary: (1) what you've come up with is great; however, I think I might prefer (2) shaving an inch or two off the lower inch of the board and pushing the outline up (and slightly angling the horn up a little) OR (3) FLIPPING the outline so that the UPPER edge of the board is the center instead of the lower.
 
At your convenience, if you could provide pictures with these outlines traced, I could probably tell you right away which I like best.
 
Another thought is -assuming the board is thick enough to do front and back- do it one way on the front, and the other way on the back.
 
I'm sorta thinking that the last option -(3)- looks like it might be the coolest -for the top.  It seems like that option might get the biggest amount of the really cool area on my top.
 
I DO wanna make sure I get the full 1/4th of an inch thickness of Coco Bolo on each side!!!
 
Thanks again, Mica, I'm really excited, and this makes me feel better, what with the problem on my other bass and all!!!

If I use the top side of the image as the center line, there is a disinctive pinch in the grain that will not conform to your specification for straight grain at the center.
 
We will be slicing and sanding this chunk in the next few days, so I'll post the bookmatches and some outlines for you when it's ready.

Thanks Mica, I'll look forward to seeing it!
 
First of all, it's a great looking board, and I'm sure whatever we come up with will look great.  So I'm happy, excited, optimistic, and worry-free!
 
Now what you think is the biggest part of the equation, and I'll defer to what you think is the best way to achieve my objective(s).
 
At this point, as I've had more time to look and contemplate, this is what I think I'd like to do -subject to your approval.
 
(I definitely want the top and back to be the full quarter inch standard laminate thickness... ASSUMING this board is thick enough to yield that amount so that I can have the front/top & back made from this [same] board... what I'm thinking I'd like to do is: )
 
FOR THE FRONT/TOP, I think I'd like to flip the outline and use the upper edge of the board for the center line... IF/ASSUMING the pinch area wouldn't conflict with my objective -due to THAT WOOD being cut out by the neck pickup and/or truss rod plate.  It looks to me like that is roughly where the neck pickup and/or truss rod plate would go... and other than that pinch area, the rest of the figuing is liney -and actually looks straighter than the lines on the other side.  So it looks like there wouldn't be an issue with this conflicting with my wanting the figuring in the center to be liney to disguise the BTC... but it depend on whether the pickup and/or truss rod plate would eliminate this concern or not.
 
FOR THE BACK, I think I'd like to use the outline you have above, but slightly modified, by pushing the outline up to the upper edge of the board (to include more of the middle super cool area in the top), and also specifically angling/lifting up the horn part of the outline -to make the lines more parallel, as you suggested.
 
I'd like to get more of the middle super cool area into the top and back... the liney parts of the figuring should be mainly to (A) disguise/conceal the BTC on the front and back, and (B) to give me the desired concentric figuring on the edges.
 
Thanks again, look forward to seeing the wood when cut, and hearing your thoughts.  If it turns out not to be thick enough to yield 1/4 thickness for the top and back, I'll of course want to see another board for the other side (whichever side that would be).  But hopefully this board will be thick enough to yield a quarter inch of Coco Bolo on both sides!
 
                                     Interesting... I just stumbled onto how to make the smiley face!!!

Hi Mica!
 
Regarding our recent discussion several minutes ago on Friday the 13th, I'm writing this post to remind you that I'm sorta flaking/waffling/flip-flopping on the electronics thing.
 
I would like quotes on several different things, at your convenience.
 
(A) How much would it be to upgrade to Shim's electronics... (Signature electronics with 3-position Qs for each pickup and a MASTER(single) pair of bass and treble KNOBS?
 
(B) How much would it be to upgrade to what I just described with a (single) pair of bass & treble TOGGLES instead.  (Like Toby's custom Rogue, but with 3-position Qs.)
 
(C) How much would it be to do the Series (I) prep -with the standard arrangement required (extra -relative to what I've already ordered) continuous wood backplates?
 
(D) How much would it be to do the Series (I) prep -with the minimum necessary continueous wood backplates (2 instead of 3, but/and having the battery -which I'd want- under the... sound card or circuit card, or whatever you called it, that your Dad isn't fond of?)
 
The ONLY way I could (gasp) afford (by which I mean, go further in debt on the credit card) any of these options would be to sacrifice the Omega cutout and dual bevel currently specified in my work order... now, for all I know, this may have already been done... if so, it's all cool, and there's no point answering these question, as there is no possibility I could consider these options on top of the Mini-Omega and bevel.
 
But -as much as it would kill me to add more to the price tag- if the Mini-Omega and bevel HAVEN'T been committed to yet, I'd like to get this info -because, if it's only a couple hundred extra dollars, it would be worth it to consider these (basically two) options.
 
I'd LOVE to have Shim or Toby style electronics... Signature electronics, with (only) a single set of bass & treble controls (knobs or toggles) would be awesome.  If it only cost a couple/several hundred extra, it would be something I could/should consider.
 
Similarily, if the cost to prep my most awesome second custom for Series I electronics only cost a couple/several hundred extra -so that I could someday, when I have more money, get it retrofitted for Series I electronics- it would (also) be something I could/should consider.
 
I think you thought the Series I prep was $550 more minus $200 for the hollowness I already have plus $X for 1 or 2 extra continueous woodplates?
 
I think Shim's electronics would be an extra $1050 retail ($400 retail to upgrade back to Signature from Europa, $150 extra to upgrade back the second Q switch to 3 positions, and $500 extra for a single pair of bass & treble knobs -and $400 extra for a pair of bass & treble toggles instead of the knobs).
 
Please confirm/correct/enlighten me at your convenience.  I'll be able to give a a decision right away when I see the figures.  It's in the ballpark of 50/50 whether I stick with the current plan -or implement one or both upgrades.  Price/cost IS the biggest determiner.
 
Thanks again Mica, congratulations again, and have a great weekend!
 
PS, if it happened to be the case that the body was glued on already, I/we could (maybe) consider adding additional pinstripes to make the body extra thick for the Series prep -if needed.  And again, if it happens to be the case that it's too late, that's fine, it'll be awesome regardless.  Thanks again!!!

The title of the thread sez it all.  Regarding our conversation earlier, I'd like to how much more it would cost to upgrade to the road case.
 
My only interest would be in the protection of the instrument -so I'm asking for the cheapest/most simple road case... nothing fancy with regards to whatever options there might be... just the cost of upgrading to something more durable.  The durability is my ONLY interest.  (What ARE the options, anyway?  Extra compartments?  Just curious...)
 
Thanks Mica.  Respond here and/or email, whatever works.  But, maybe save a copy of the email (if you email) in case it doesn't go thru.  Thanks again.

Mark,
 
For less than you could get an Alembic hard case, you could get a Halliburton.
 
Drug dealer chic!

Thanks for the tip, Brad... but I would only get a case from Alembic -so that I know it'll fit the instrument.

Hey Mica, please do me a favor and give me a heads up here if/when you email me the pricing on the options above (assuming you send it to me by email -as opposed to just posting it here- which I think is what you said you're going to do).
 
That way I'll know if it doesn't go thru for some reason, so I can get back to you.  (I checked before writing this, of course, and it wasn't there at that point.)
 
I know that the Serie I prep option would require a slightly thicker body -which is a change you'd need to know about and which will delay construction until you know (unless, of course, it's too late already, and the body has already been glued up).
 
I should give you a definite answer on which if any of those options I want to go with within 24 hours of getting the pricing options.
 
Thanks Mica!  And again, the Coco looks great!!!

Oh yeah, it's conceivable that I might combine some of those options above (although more likely I'd do either/or -due to expense).
 
I'd love to get Signature Electronics with a master set of bass & trebles knobs or toggles (and 3 position Qs) prepped for Series I electronics.  In the unlikely event I were to do this (due to expense) I'd almost certainly go for the toggles over the knobs -both to keep it cheaper, and to require less space.