Alembic Guitars Club
Alembic products => Factory to Customer => Topic started by: mica on January 18, 2007, 06:57:34 PM
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This is the first stage of the neck construction for your bass:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/35457.jpg)
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Wow~ I have waited for a long time to see the process of building my bass. Thanx Mica~ :D
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And, Mica~ You promised the top wood like RagingBass. So, I want to see the top wood before the process of body construction. Can you show me the top wood??
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Shim, your neck is beautiful. Congratulations on a well chosen construction. May you find the patience necessary to watch as your lovely is built by the artisans of Alembic, and may you have many more days to please yourself by playing it!
:-)
Jim
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We do have on the order that you want the top like Raging Bass. Bob looked through the lumber and found two very good choices for your bass. First, the top:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/35598.jpg)
There is a faint pencil line where you can see the position for the cut. Where the upper horn is, there is even a slight amount of flame figure. It's a beautiful piece. And then the back:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/35599.jpg)
This is getting milled (cut) today.
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Bob finished cutting the back piece, and it was thick enough to get both the top and back from the same cut. PLUS, the top (left side) turned out very interesting:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/35610.jpg)
Also the peghead veneers from the same cut:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/35611.jpg)
We'll put the top wood from my post number 4026 back in inventory. I think these new cuts show some of the characteristics from Raging Bass, but are also beautiful and unique. Hope you feel the same way, we need to get this body glued up tomorrow to stay on schedule.
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Wow~~~ It's so beautiful~~~
I like your choice for my bass, your post number 4026. But, it can be more good, if the grain of the top wood could be more distinct.
Anyway....
Thanx Mica, and your coworker. Please tell Bob, I am really happy to see my gorgeous top wood.
Thanx, Thanx, Thanx...
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Shim- I like your top. Remember it will pop more with finish. Lookin good!
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Shim, you're going to love this top!
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I hope I understand correctly that you want us to use all the wood in post 4028.
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Yes, I can agree with your selection.
the most important thing, I think, is the position for cut. I believe you and Bob make a good decision for me.
I prefer the grain of picture in post 4026 more, but it is just my taste.
Anyway, Is it right to use the first wood in post 4026 for the top??
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This is your bass in carving on Monday. At that time, there was still a couple hours of work left to do:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/36222.jpg)
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/36223.jpg)
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/36224.jpg)
Now the carving is finished and the bass is ready to route for the electronics. Check the changes area late tonight for an updated control layout. Routing is scheduled for Friday, which will also be the day the first coat of sealer will be sprayed.
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Can I see the front of my bass? I want to see the whole grain of my bass. Thanx Mica~~~!!!
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Shim! Your bass looks wonderful! I think it's gonna be a beauty!
- Jim
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Thanx Jim~!!! I maybe really love my bass. Thanx a lot.
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I'll send you a front photo tomorrow with the control layout. I'm sorry, but I wasn't able to take the photo today before I left work.
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James has already fretted the bass, it will be going back to spray tonight:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/36504.jpg)
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I cannot wait for updating pictures of my bass~~~!!!!
Good and Nice Bass~!!!!!
Thanx Mica~~~
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Mica, I wanna see the peghead and Logo inlay on it.
And, I don't know if you check my request of Ron's signature or not.
Please answer it. Thanx.
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And.... Can I get the information of my bass wood? Like.... how old they are, where they lived... something like this...
If you have a information about my wood, please tell me.
Thanx. Mica.
Regards,
JongWoo, Shim
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I'll be presenting you with more pictures later in the week.
We've had the Coco Bolo for at least 6 years that we used in your bass. It is from Mexico. Our supplier ages for several years before we receive it, but I don't know how old the tree was.
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The logo was curing today:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/36767.jpg)
Time for the last 2 coats of finish now.
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It looks like a little bit assymmetric...;;;;;
Is this due to angle of camera??;;;;
I worry about this''''
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Shim, the logo is fine, please do not worry. James did his typical excellent job in the material selection and the inlay itself.
You're right that the camera angle is low, and the logo is distorted through the dust cover. There's also surplus epoxy on the face of the logo.
I'll show the logo again if I can catch it before it's prepped for spray or when it's curing for the final rubout. You'll see there is nothing to worry about.
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Wow, Shim, your inlay looks really nice!
What a nice touch to an already-awesome bass!!
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Last night's pictures show just putting together the last few pieces:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/37131.jpg)
And the logo inlay, from a slightly more normal perspective:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/37132.jpg)
You're in San Francisco now, right? Will you be coming to pick up your bass this week?
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No, I called Basscentral in Monday, and they told me you will ship my bass, so I request them, I want to get my bass in 3/10. Because I should go back Korea in this weekend.
Isn't This true?
(Message edited by Shim on March 07, 2007)
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Shim,
Yes that is true, Mica thought that since you were in San Francisco you might want to pick it up. We are fully prepared to ship it to you. I need a phone number to call you. You must be home to receive the instrument. UPS will not deliver the package without an adult signature. You can call us between 10 AM and 4 PM. Thanks
Susan
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Ok, I write the E-mail to basscentral.
Please check my mail, and send my bass~!!! :D
If you want to call me, just tell me. I'll call you.
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Shim,
I just spoke with Hyom, at the address on Potrero Ave. The bass is done, Ron has signed the backplate and Mica is busy photographing your bass right now for it's pre-shipping quality photos. Then it will be boxed and shipped today. I'll phone Hyom later with the UPS tracking number. It should arrive tomorrow. I have personally inspected every inch of the bass and given my approval.
Susan
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Can you upload the new picture of my bass? :D
You know, I cannot wait for my bass even just one day....
Thanx a lot~!
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Shim,
You'll have to wait a little while for a photo, everyone is busy building or shipping right now.
Susan
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Here's a sneak preview of what you'll be seeing when you open the case:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/37177.jpg)
Please let us know when you receive it - I'm sorry that you weren't able to come and pick it up in person, we're only a 1-hour drive away from San Francisco.
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Beautiful.
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I recieved my bass, but somethings are wrong.
One : I told you I want to get the 3 way toggle on the Q. But, These are 2 way toggle.
Two : Basscentral told me that they include Alembic Strap on my shipping.
What's wrong??
I paid all of these specs.
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How's the bass? She shure looks tasty
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I found out the problem on the order. Sorry, but I neglected to mark the work order of the Q switch change. The paperwork end was in order, but with coordinating shipping to arrive in time, it was simply overlooked in the final check since it wasn't included on the work order instructions.
Tony has made me replacement filters with Q switches that I will send to you today and you will receive it tomorrow with your strap. You might want to provide a different address since there was some confusion on the receiving end this morning from what I understand.
Changing the parts out is simple, takes on the tools that I will provide in the box with the parts and involves no soldering. You should be able to swap from the 2-position switches to the 3-position switches in less than an hour.
When you make the change, kindly send the filters with 2-position switches back to me. I don't expect you to do this before you get home to Korea.
I'm glad to hear that only one minor problem resulted on this bass through all the changes, and also that we were able to get it delivered in time for you to bring home with you.
It is very important for you to call us at 707 523 2611 with a different shipping address before 3:00 today to make sure the parts, tools and strap will reach you in time.
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I know there is something wrong in delivery in the morning.
But, if I told secretary of our office, there may be not problem in this morning. Sorry it was my mistake.
And, I worry about changing the electronics by myself. It maybe not easy to me. So if you can, please include manual to change electronics by myself.
Anyway, Thanx for your effort.
You can deliver stuff in same address.
Thanx.
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And, Hyon Lee will take my stuff in my office. Because I should go to LA for my bussiness.
And, I told to basscentral, I want to get this strap.
http://alembic.stores.yahoo.net/widrosleatst.html (http://alembic.stores.yahoo.net/widrosleatst.html)
Please check it~!
And, in my office there are so many workers so you should find me or Hyon Lee. Or, if you cannot find out us, just send the stuff, because my office so safe. Don't worry about the delivery. Just deliver to my address.
Thanx.
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And, this is a thiny problem, but why the bird-tail piece is not located symmetric?
Is this for the correct sound, fitch, note???
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It's not a problem. The taipieces are not decorative - they are placed where they function best. The tailpiece is handmade, the bass is handmade. You will not see very many basses with the tailpiece exactly centered. This is your tailpiece:
(http://alembic.com/club/messages/631/37209.jpg)
and it was placed according to the best possbile setup. We do not regard this as a problem.
You'll notice that strap is out of stock, and has been for several months. We sent you the strap (http://alembic.stores.yahoo.net/widamemstrap.html) that was available.
Please make sure the head of the research department knows the package is coming. That is who phoned us today regarding the delivery, and I think it's important that they are informed since there was some trouble.
I will be posting some instructions on this thread shortly on how to change out the filter controls.
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Here's what I sent you for changing the electronics: 2 filters with 3-position Q switches (including nuts and washers) 1 1/2" nut driver 1 5/16" nut driver Read these instructions all the way through first and ask questions if something isn't clear before you start working. -------------------------------------------------- First you need to Remove the knobs on the filter controls. I'm sure you will be able to find a large blade screwdriver or a 6mm nut driver for this purpose. -------------------------------------------------- After you remove the knobs, each filter/Q-switch set will look like this:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/37216.jpg)
-------------------------------------------------- Remove the large backplate. -------------------------------------------------- Next you need to remove the mounting hardware on the filters and the Q switches. These pictures are taken with the actual tools I sent to you:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/37217.jpg)
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/37218.jpg)
-------------------------------------------------- Each filter module has a 3-pin connector and a 2-pin connector:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/37219.jpg)
When unplugging the connectors, do not pull the wires, only touch the plastic housing. Use your fingers or needle nose pliers:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/37220.jpg)
Unplug one filter first, and then plug in the new filter. Then you can unplug the other filter and connect the other new filter. This way you won't have to keep track of which pickup is bridge and neck. -------------------------------------------------- When you put the controls back through the top of the bass, orient them the same way as the parts you took out. It will be helpful to hold the filter module with your fingers while you tighten up the nut with the other hand. This way it can't spin around. Make sure the board is not touching the side of the cavity when the nuts are tightened. You don't need to tighten super hard - once you meet with a little resistance, you are tight enough. Do the same for the Q switch. -------------------------------------------------- To put the knobs back in place, turn the filter control to the full clockwise position by the bare shaft. If you turn the volume control the same way, the line should point to the peghead. Now, place the knob back on the shaft of the filter pot and tighten the collet. You can hold the knob shaft so it doesn't rotate while you are tightening. Pop the cap back in place. Once you do this for both sets, you can put the backplate back on. Then send me the filter controls with 2-position Q switches and my dad's tools when you can. I appreciate this. If you have questions, you can let me know. You can also ask the good folks a G-Cat to make this change for you if you don't think you can. They are very familiar with Alembic service and are excellent people to work with.
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Mica, you wrote: they are placed where they function best. The tailpiece is handmade, the bass is handmade. You will not see very many basses with the tailpiece exactly centered.
I think it's a little contradictory: best function...and handmade...I don't understand why, if the tailpiece is or not located symmetric, the sound will change...? And how you
can know the future sound without strings...
I said that because I had the same problem on http://club.alembic.com/Images/411/33422.html?1167290162 (http://club.alembic.com/index.php?topic=8692) and your answer was: I'm afraid that there isn't much to be done except to build a new tailpiece to fit better, but it still would be unlikely to be perfectly centered, although I agree it can be improved.
I'm sorry to write all this but with the prices you practise, buyers may wait something perfect.
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Pierreyves,
The tailpiece on my SC Standard isn't symmetric either, but you know what? I don't care. Yes, Alembics are expensive. Yes, they're handmade. But because they're handmade, those tailpieces are fitted where they will perform as designed, not where they'll look the best. Speaking only for myself, I'd rather have a tailpiece that's positioned for performance and playability and not symmetry.
Frankly, I could care less how it looks - what matters is how it sounds and plays. My SC plays and sounds great. That's good enough for me. Besides, I don't think the Symmetry Police are going to notice and arrest me.
Shim,
I bought my SC Standard at G-Cat, and can vouch for their work. They are located off Line 6 of the Seoul Subway, Sangsu Station, Exit two, about 400 yards down from the Subway entrance. I'm in Seoul should you ever care to converse or share Alembic stories.
My two cents,
Alan
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Beautiful bass Shim, Congratulations. I agree with Alan, the off-center tailpiece by a centimeter or two should not be too important for a hand made instrument, mine is the same way. I'm sure if we took the ruler out and measured anything that was handmade before the computer age (furniture, clocks, even old upright basses) we could find some things not symmetric on each one.
Any manufacturer can program machines to cut each part exactly the same and it will produce the exact same results every time, but then the hand made craftsmanship is lost. There are very few true artisans left anymore, so I for one will happily take any Alembic bass that is slightly off center... Like me... Congrats again.
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Southpaw - make that 2 millimeters. Two centimeters is about .8 of an inch - that would be taking tolerance to the limits.
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My bad... I'll just say it's off center a tiny bit; that's a technical term that covers many measurements.
(Message edited by southpaw on March 10, 2007)
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Hi, guys....
As a customer, I agree with Pierreyves.
I spend my money a lot to Alembic. I decided buying my bass and waited for my bass for a long time.
I think Alembic is the greatest bass in the world. So I expect a lot about the Alembic. Although The symmetry is not problem of Alembic, but if it is problem to customer, Alembic should correct this for their customer. After making my new bass, Mark request his bass should have symmetry.
I think, Alembic must do anything in this problem. I know Handmade is difficult, but Alembic want to maintain their name value. Symmetry is not matter to some customer, but it is matter to other customer. To be the best bass builder, Alembic should do anything in this problem.
I appreciate Alembic, because Alembic make my dream bass. But..... they can do anything for me.
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we are waiting for an objective and honnest answer from Mica. I had a lot of basses (4 Alembic, Fender, Rickenbacker, Ibanez (severals), BC Rich, Musicman, Steinberger and I never seen that. You have material to mesure the exact position I think, hand made or not. For many people, Alembic is like a god, I agree for many thing, particularely THE sound, BUT, you could be stay objective and have an other regard for this problem.
My next bass will be an other Alembic with correctly positionned tailpiece ! ;o))
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we are waiting for an objective and honnest answer from Mica. I had a lot of basses (4 Alembic, Fender, Rickenbacker, Ibanez (severals), BC Rich, Musicman, Steinberger and I never seen that. You have material to mesure the exact position I think, hand made or not. For many people, Alembic is like a god, I agree for many thing, particularely THE sound, BUT, you could be stay objective and have an other regard for this problem.
My next bass will be an other Alembic with correctly positionned tailpiece ! ;o))
Pierre-Yves,
I own, at the moment, the following:
'73 Fender Jazz Bass
'94 MIJ Fender Jazz Bass
'05 MIA Fender Jazz Bass Deluxe
'99 Fender Jazz Bass Deluxe Fretless
'76 Fender Precision
'77 Gibson RD Artist
'74 Gibson Ripper
'87 Gibson Thunderbird
'81 Gibson Victory
'79 Musicman Stingray
'02 Musicman Bongo
'04 Pedulla MVP
'87 Peavey Dyna Bass Unity Series Limited
Martin BC-15E Acoustic Electric
Ovation CC-074 Acoustic Electric
Godin A4 Acoustic Electric
'77 Rickenbacker 4001
'76 Rickenbacker 4001
'03 Alembic Spyder
'04 Alembic Dragon's Wing
'91 Alembic Essence
'92 Alembic Essence
'03 Alembic Europa
'06 Alembic Stanley Clarke Sig Standard
Lakland 4-94
Like you, I've spent a lot of money on Alembics. I've spent, personally, close to $25K on the Alembics I have now, and damn near $10K on the one I have being built (with more owed -sigh!). I've said repeatedly in many forums and in this one that an instrument (or anything else for that matter) is only worth that which one is willing to pay for it. For me,an Alembic is worth every penny. I've been to the factory, I've met the people, and I've played the instruments. There isn't any bass finer in my opinion, flaws be damned. They may not be for everyone, but they're a cut above, IMHO.
My '76 P Bass has a horribly aligned bridge. I know this since I replaced the original bridge with a Badass II - I literally had to move the saddles almost to the back of the bridge to get the intonation right. Nothing I did with the Ovation got the action low enough, to include having a professional luthier shave the saddle. And the bass I traded for the Stanley Clarke, a brand new Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray HH, absolutely refused to accept light gauge strings. It was beautifully made, but it just couldn't be adjusted to the point where I could play it. It buzzed all over the place, regardless of how high I raised the action.
What I'm saying here is no bass is perfect, regardless of cost (the P cost about $700, the Ovation about $300, and the Stingray over a thousand). My Alembics aren't perfect either. Perfection is a goal - if something was perfect there would be nothing to shoot for.
Alembics, like any bass or guitar, have their flaws. If you don't like the less than symmetrical placement of the tailpiece, tell them that you want it symetrically mounted. They'll do it, too. Of course, the bass or guitar may not play well or sound good in that instance, but if it is that important to you they'll accomodate you.
Don't get me wrong - I'm not apologizing for anyone, nor am I defending anyone. I'm just saying that if symmetry is important to you, tell the elfs at Alembic ahead of time, and you'll get what you want.
My two cents,
Alan
(Message edited by ajdover on March 11, 2007)
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Suggestion.... If a Perfectly Positioned Tailpiece is of the utmost importance, maybe the elfs at the mothership could put a straight bar tailpiece on it, therefore rendering any minor imperfection unnoticeable, and not affecting the string placement, tone or anything else they strive for in the build, and it would still look magnificent....
(Message edited by 5stringho on March 11, 2007)
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i think you're nitpicking
its a gorgeous bass. probably sounds good too
you think anyone is going to think less of your bass because its microscopically off center by millimeters? i didnt notice it until it was brought up and i look at almost every bass made in the ftc's
i wish that was my only problem with the bass that had the wrong neck built built and then to blast mica and company after all the posts and i assure you a very good production time in the eyes of many on this site who wondered why yours moved quickly shows a lack of maturity on your part shim
its amazing that with all the changes you made on your bass that it came out as good as it has.
if it sounds good and plays good. that should be your final determining factor. handmade is exactly that-handmade- it doesn't affect its playability and i bet more basses have slight imperfections on them because a machine does not make them. whats next? measuring the curve around the body for accuracy?
i swapped out a regular pu for a fatboy on direwolf. the fatboy didnt fit in- should i have sent it back to alembic? uh no. i modified the pu to fit.
this is so minor and yet you seem very ungrateful
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Shim, I agree with Flax. It's your bass, but you're nitpicking. If you don't like the bass I'll buy it from you as-is at your cost! :-)
Pierre, on the other hand, is beyond nitpicking... Impugning Mica's honesty? I read the posts you referenced and many more besides and I think perhaps the only thing I would hold in higher regard than Mica's honesty is her patience.
- Jim
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The turnaround on this bass was amazingly fast. As was said, the amount of changes during production were higher than average.Truly custom including electronics. Many here know what a wait can be like. Some are like Olympic contenders.
The craftsmen really came through for this instrument and spent a lot of time in correspondence compared to most customers. After viewing this thread I took a look at all my instruments. (aside from the black finished which solves the visual symetric asthetic) None of them are perfect in their bridge/tail placement. Besides the Alembics, Gibson, MusicMan, Hamer, Stambaugh, Dean Bromberg, Fender, Schecter, BC Rich, ESP all have some minor issue. Function is sometimes more important than form. The customer is more than entitled to their opinion. Mine is that Alembic tries to make each instrument to the best of their ability. After being in business for so long, I'm guessing this issue has been encountered before. Perhaps the solution does not enhance the playability?
We are all individuals with varying culture, experience, expectation and ability. I don't believe we will all see any issue exactly the same.
I hope that Shim will grow to cherish this instrument and enjoy it for many years to come.
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Nobody here explain to me with simple words, I be able to understand, what is the report (?) between tailpiece position AND playability without strings ???
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Pierre-Yves and all,
The general discussion about tailpiece centering has been redirected here (http://club.alembic.com/index.php?topic=3582) thanks to Jim.
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Shim,
We tried very hard to make your bass to your specifications and with the time constraint you placed on us. When you placed your order in November, we made the agreement to have it finished to time with your visit to San Francisco. Even though we couldn't start the bass right away because the specifications list was not solid until January (at one time a 4-string, fretless another), and though there were many changes, we still made the delivery date, and I feel made you a wonderful bass. We appreciate your business, and wish you felt better about the bass we made for you, as we consider each instrument we ship to be our best effort.
I am not sure what you are asking me for in your last post, Shim, could you restate it?
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I'm sorry mica, there is something misunderstanding.
Before I made a decision to order my new bass, I saw the pierreyves post about symmetry of tail-piece. I worried about the my bass, but I don't mind because it is not important to me.
But, after I had a simple question about the position of tail-piece, and wrote this question in this page, Mark requested you exact position and symmetry on his new bass.
I think this is not important, because my Alembic is the greatest, and most gorgeous bass in my life. I think my bass has the most beautiful grain in the world.
You know, Alembic do their best in building their bass, and for this effort, Alembic can be the greatest bass company in the world.
I think someone worried about symmetry, when they order their own bass, like Mark.
I know, Alembic made my bass in short schedule. I think Alembic did a great job in my bass.
In my hope, just you know the hope of your customer. I'm sorry because of my English skill. My unprofessional words and sentence make some trouble in this page.
Hey guys. I just want to know the reason about the symmetry and I just want to express Alembic should explain their work and make their customer not to have misunderstanding. Including me, we just want to know the exact Alembic procedure, so we can understand our Alembic bass more. That's all.
Again, sorry to Alembic, my mistake about express my English. Sorry, and Thanks a lot about making my dream bass. Thanx.
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I'm with Flax. I have been astounded watching this thread develop. My initial thoughts leaned towards speculation of who Shim kipnapped, had embarassing pictures of, had paid off, or was otherwise extorting. I've never seen a bass built this quickly - especially with all the customization and changes along the way. The rest of us waited much longer - Bradley and I are still waiting at 2 years + because of customized inlays. Once the instrument is finished, you want the strings to line up correctly for playability as opposed to the point in the middle of the tailpiece lining up with the neck lams. I suspect part of the problem is that the strings themsleves are not symmetrical - wider on one side, narrower on the other. Does Alembic set the spacing from string edge to string edge or from string center to center. These are different, though very close, measurements. I would gladly trade having my tailpiece slightly off center, as it is on both by '83 Electrum and my '76 Series I, in exhange for having had my Further completed 2 years ago. (And I expect it still won't be perfectly symmetrical when it's done). I guess this is an example of the old adage: no good deed goes unpunished.
Bill, tgo
(Message edited by lbpesq on March 11, 2007)
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anyone who has a problem with mica and anyone at alembics honesty,dedication to customer satisfaction etc better not meet me in a dark alley as i promise to kick your tail up to your esophagus.
i waited 14 months for scooter- it was made incorrectly and i am now awaiting its replacement
heck i might beat bill out the door again
your backtracking your earlier rudeness.
you got a custom made bass made in 3 months
quit griping already
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NOWHERE will you find a company as concerned with complete customer satisfaction as the folks at Alembic, especialy Mrs. Thomas! Trust me, they go WAYYYY out of their way to make you happy. That's why they have such a passionate, loyal Customer and fan base, no pun intended.
And to get a monster Bass like Shim's in less than 3 months, with ALL the changes and stuff???
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I think Shim deserves a little more respect and support. I don't see that he's been disrespectful. He started off saying it's a tiny problem. I don't see him at any point saying anything disrespectful or discourteous to Alembic. He's just expressed his feelings, and done so in a civilized and respectful manner.
Is it nitpicking? Maybe. Is this wrong? Should he not express his feelings? There seems to be at least as much nitpicking on the part of others putting him down for what he's said. I've read and re-read everyones recent posts -and I don't see that Shim ever said anything disrespectful or out of line -much less backtracked from any rudeness.
I mean no disrespect, gang. I like all of you guys (and gals). But I think we should be a little more supportive. If it nitpicky... well, then, what of it? Different things matter to different people. Just because one person isn't bothered by something doesn't mean that another person won't be bothered by it.
As far as I can tell, Shim expressed himself and his feelings in a civilized and respectful manner, and should not be condemned for it. I think it would be worse if he -or others who have followed this- were afraid to express themselves for fear of condemnation.
Now being nasty or disrespectful of Mica or Alembic would be a different issue, of course. But I see no basis for saying Shim has done that.
Just my thoughts, gang.
Shim, I hope you love your bass.
My custom Europa is the most awesome bass I've ever played -though it has a few minor imperfections inherent in man-made items.
Best wishes, all.
Mark
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King, hear hear. I agree and do not think Shim was being disrespectful. As stated, he has every right to his opinion. I do want him to understand, though, that there is nothing wrong with his bass and that other Alembic lovers would be thrilled to have such a stunningly gorgeous instrument! Shim, be proud of your bass guitar and may you enjoy it for many years to come!
- Jim
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Congrads Shim on a Beautiful Bass!
Aloha, Paul
(Message edited by mele_aloha on March 13, 2007)
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Beautiful bass. I love the coco bolo!
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I'm glad to hear you're happy with the bass, Shim. We were really hoping you would like it. Please let me know if you received the box with the parts, tools and strap. Also write to me again is you have any questions about the Q-switch procedure.
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Hi~ Mica
When I came back to my country, I changed my 3-way toggle Q-switch in G-cat. They are so nice, and I could exchange them safely.
Sorry, I'm so late to make you know so late about this story.
So... I should give you back the 2 way Q switches and Ron's equipment. How can I give you that? Can I use the Fedex or UPS? But... I think, It's problem about paying the fee.
And... I have a question. Why my bass has a head machines with the Gotoh logo instead of italic A? I expected that A logo like in
http://www3.alembic.com/img/inst/13650_pegheadbackL.jpg (http://www3.alembic.com/img/inst/13650_pegheadbackL.jpg)
I have enjoyed my dream bass. Thanx your effort.
Thanx.
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Hi Shim! I'm glad to hear you got your 3-position Q switches put in, and I'm glad to hear you're enjoying your bass!
It's a stunning beauty, and it has an impressive electronics package.
Are you glad you paid extra to get the 3-position Q switches? I find the milder in-between setting (the 4 db setting) to be VERY useful. What do YOU think?
Take care, Shim, best wishes.
Mark
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Sometimes we do not have the Gotoh tuners in stock with our decoration of A on the back. When this happens, we use regular Gotoh tuners. This is only decoration, there is no functional difference between the machine heads.
You can use FedEx, UPS, or Express Mail to return the parts and tools. Or, you can give them to the good folks at G-Cat and I will explain to them what to do. If you are giving them to G-Cat, please let me know first so they are not confused.
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Mica, I sended Ron's tools and 2 way Q toggle to G-cat. They are so kind, and they have a plan to build the museum of Alembic in Korea. It's unbelieverble. I'm so happy to hear that.
But, My bass should be changed the jack mount, because the jack mount in my bass has a problem. when I put the jack in my bass and when I paly it, sometimes sound is stopped.
The chairman of G-cat told me, my original jack mount has some problems. So, if you can accept, they can exchange them for free and they will send you my original jack mount. How about your opinion??
And, actually I'm so sad to realize that my head machines don't have the symbol of Alembic decoration, A. Because I am the big fan of alembic, and I love the name of Alembic, and I always had the dream of having my alembic bass.
I told to G-cat about this, and they told me they have the Gotoh tuners in stock with decoration of A, so If you agree, they can change my tuners for me~!!!! and they can send you my original gotoh tuners.
How about your opinion?? Please help me to get the tuner with the decoration of A.
G-cat people are so kind to their customers. If you can, you should give them a prize. I think They deserve it. And, if they can build the Alembic museum, many musicians in Korea can see the history of alembic, and including me, many people can be happy to know about your history.
Thanx a lot Mica. Alembic always makes me happy.
Shim
(Message edited by Shim on May 06, 2007)
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Mica, I should tell about your opinions to G-cat as soon as possible. Because they want to know your opinion.
If you read my post, please solve the problems of my bass~~
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Hi Shim,
I've sent a message to G-Cat, and will let you know what arrangements can be made with them. Sometimes a response takes a few days because of translation, but I will let you know as soon as I hear back.
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You've requested to have my dad sign your backplate with the date of completion and your initials J.W. in permanent marker.
Please confirm if you want the signature on the inside or the outside of the backplate. On the inside, it will be better protected from wear, but you'll have to take it off to see it.
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Hmm... First, I want to get the sign in outside of the backplate. I don't understand why the sign would be harmful to my bass backplate.
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The signature won't harm the backplate, but it might wear off from your shirt rubbing it while playing.
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Hmmm... I know what you mean!!! :D
But, it's Okay because I will paste a protectable transparent film for preserving Ron's sign. Don;t worry. :D
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Sounds good!
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Not sure what kind of backplates you're getting, but maybe they could spray finish over it?
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I don't know about that. Mica will be able to answer that question.
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The brass we purchase for plates already has a coating on it. I think Shim's idea for a transparent film protection is best.
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Mica, Change the signature option.
Not include my initial. Just date and Ron's signature.
If you see this, Please answer it. Thanx.
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OK Shim, we will make this change to the order.
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Hi Shim, Here's a control layout I've come up with for your bass:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/35651.jpg)
The knobs are in straight lines, and the switches too. On the real thing, the spacing will be even, this mock up is done fairly quickly. With names so you can see what is what:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/35652.jpg)
For your reference, everything needs to fit within the backplate area, shaded here:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/35653.jpg)
This layout lets you use parts that have standard wire lengths. If you ever need a repair part, it won't need to be orderd custom to fit your bass.
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First, I imagine the not 2-3-2-2 way like your suggestion, but 3-3-3 way.
so,
1. treble cut/boost - bass cut/boost - master volume
LED on/off - 3-pos bridge toggle - 3-way neck toggle
bridge filter - neck filter - pan/blend
2. bridge filter - neck filter - master volume
LED on/off - 3-pos bridge toggle - 3-way neck toggle
treble cut/boost - bass cut/boost - pan/blend.
I think the 3-3-3 way look more stabel.
could you make 3-3-3 way??
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Something more like this?
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/35663.jpg)
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Mica, I hope I'm not out-of-line here, but I have an idea for Shim's/your consideration.
It's very similar to your mock-up in post 4038.
Have the two rows of 3 knobs be perfectly parallel; have the 2 middle knobs in each row be slightly farther apart from each other; have the LED switch in the dead center going side to side, and the other 2 toggles centered between the center knobs and the outer knobs on either side; and finally, have the 3 knobs with detents all on the same row. (Top row =B filter, volume, N filter, bottom row =treble, balance, bass). I considered something very similar for myself.
Like this:
..........NECK...............BASS
..........FILT................CONT
..........KNOB...............KNOB
.................................
.......................N..........
.......................Q..........
.................................
......MAST.......................BLEN
......VOLU.........LED.........CONT
......KNOB.......................KNOB
.................................
.......................B..........
.......................Q..........
.................................
..........BRID...............TREB
..........FILT................CONT
..........KNOB..............KNOB
The setup would be completely symetrical.
Hope you don't mind my sharing this idea with you.
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Your idea does not address the output jack, and putting it in line with the switches gets it too crowded towards the edge if I understand your representation.
This is Shim's call. I was trying to understand Shim's request, and so the placement of the controls was based on my understanding of his message.
I am only here to make sure that the control placement is physically possible and the knobs and switches won't interfere with eachother during operation. I may make some gentle suggestions here and there, but in the end, Shim's the one who will be playing this bass, and I will respect his wishes.
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Mica, the position of Pan knob is wrong.
Pan/blend knob is below the master volume.
And, I think the straight array is so strict. I think the incline array is more good.
Or, if Treble cut/boost , 3-way Q bridge toggle, bridge filter are moved higher than your picture, it can be more good.
If I can draw the picture of my electronics and post that, I'll paste my wishes in this page. It's so hard to explain what I want. ;;;;;
Anyway, Thanx Mica, And Mark.~~!!!!!
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I hope this is more of what you are looking for. I also moved the positions of the filters so the Q switches would be in a logical relationship to them.
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/35672.jpg)
Let me know if you like it or if you had something else in mind. If you have a sketch, you can post it here or fax it to me if it's easier (707-523-2935).
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Mica, we can discuss about electronics lay-out, with the picture http://www3.alembic.com/img/inst/13465_controlsL.jpg (http://www3.alembic.com/img/inst/13465_controlsL.jpg)
In this picture, the knobs and controls are closer each other, so looks good. I know my bass body is larger than the balanced K body, so there is enough space, but the electronics look good when the knobs and controls are closer each other.
I like http://www3.alembic.com/img/inst/13465_controlsL.jpg (http://www3.alembic.com/img/inst/13465_controlsL.jpg) , and I can explain what I want, to change the knobs in this picture.
In NN bass -------> In Shim's custom
bridge volume -------> treble cut/boost
neck volume -------> bass cut/boost
master volume -------> same.
bridge CVQ -------> bridge 3-pos Q
neck CVQ -------> neck 3-pos Q
bridge filter -------> same
neck filter -------> same
stero/mono toggle ----> side LED on/off
But, Mica, I don't decide the position of Pan/Blend. It can be position of pick-up selector knob or front LED on/off knob in NN bass.
So we can have the two option about electronics. Can you draw this two suggestion, so we can look the electronics??
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And, Mica, I will tell you about the level of 3-position Q toggle. I will choose between 0/4/8 dB or 0/3/6. As soon as possible, I will tell you about this.
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Addition : post number 61
Pan/Blend knob is more suitable in postion of Pickup selector in NN bass. So, can you use the point type knob like in NN bass for my Pan/Blend Knob ??
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Sorry - the pointer knob is only for 1/8 shaft size. The pan/blend pot is only available in 1/4 without a lengthy custom order (currently they take 4-6 months to custom make a pot), so I don't think it is possible for your order.
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Mica,
For the mods on my Spoiler, we discussed a non-click panpot, and you mentioned such a one could be done with the 1/8 shaft?
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That is again a custom part, only this time made by my father. Since Shim's bass has to be completed by the end of this month, there is no chance that the part can be made in time. Plus there is an additional cost involved for something that in my opinion is not terribly useful, since you loose the center click reference.
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Okidoki!
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ok, Mica I got it. So Can you show me the outlay of my electronics like in post #61?
And I decide to get the 0/4/8 dB toggles.
Please answer it~~
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Mica, I want to know when you can show me the electronics layout, and progress of building my bass. Please answer it. ^-^
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I'll work on the layout for you tonight. I'll do the artwork on your actual bass.
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Here's the control layout from what I understand in your post #61:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/36252.jpg)
And with labels:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/36253.jpg)
Putting the pan where the pickup selector was looked too cramped I think. Let me know if this is what you had in mind.
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The position of Pan Knob is not correct. It should be in the position of pick-up selector in http://www3.alembic.com/img/inst/13465_controlsL.jpg (http://www3.alembic.com/img/inst/13465_controlsL.jpg)
So, It should be located in between bass and treble, and more upper level. Can you understand?
I mean,like in http://www3.alembic.com/img/inst/13465_controlsL.jpg (http://www3.alembic.com/img/inst/13465_controlsL.jpg) , Pan knob of my bass should be located in same position of pick-up selector.
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But, your picture is somewhat suitable for my bass. Actually, I cannot decide what is more suitable for my bass, so if you show me the electronics lay-out like post # 69, I will decide as soon as possible.
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And... I wonder my pick-up location. I ordered my pick-up should be more apart from the neck, but, I cannot figure that it is considered or not by seeing picture of my bass.
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And is the bass in your picture my bass??? it's unbeliverble grain.
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WOW!!! WOW, WOW, WOW!!!
My Top 5 list of tops that I gave you guys... you can add this, and change it to my Top 6 list now!!!
This is as awesome as any top I've ever seen! I'll flip if my Bass looks anywhere near this great!
Love ALL the figuring -especially the concentrics near the electronics, and the detail on the horn!
Shim, you must be thrilled!
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Here's the pan control moved as you requested:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/36265.jpg)
This is your bass in the photo, I'm glad you like the grain. I checked the pickup position, and it is moved away from the fingerboard as you requested.
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Like In http://www3.alembic.com/img/inst/13465_controlsL.jpg (http://www3.alembic.com/img/inst/13465_controlsL.jpg) , the distance between bass and treble knob is apart more from each other, and the pan knob is prefered to be located more closer in volume-bass-treble line. And the distance between neck and bridge Q knob should be same to distance between bass and treble knob.
I think, in your picture, Pan knob is somewhat close to the bridge.
This is very delicate, so I don't know how I can explain. If you cannot understand what I mean, please tell me.
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Hey Shim, just a suggestion... what if you made the left side have 4 nobs going down in a straight line so that from top to bottom it would be vol, pan, bass, treb. Then relocate the LED switch somewhere - maybe on the outter edge between the two filters. So it would look something like the picture in post #61, but swapping the pan knob and LED switch, and then putting the pan by the vol instead of having b & t in between.
Great lookin bass by the way. And talk about your fast builds...
(Message edited by bassjigga on February 15, 2007)
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And in post #4108, how about exchanging the pan knob and the toggle of LED?? Can you show me the picture about this recommandation?
So.... if you can, please show me the two pictures, one about post # 73, and this.
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Thanx~!!!! David~~~~!!!!!
What I want to tell Mica is your suggestion.
I like your suggestion. Let's do it~~~!!!!!!!
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Here's another mock-up based on your comments:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/36308.jpg)
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/36309.jpg)
This is with the pan control based on David's suggestion:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/36310.jpg)
I think the LED operation switch should be farthest away from your hands, I don't think it's good to be near the bridge.
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That looks like a logical setup. I'd go for that if it were mine Shim. Glad I could be of help.
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Ok, I think the out-lay of David suggestion is more suitable for my bass. And It looks good.
Let's make my bass like in your picture~~!!!
The third one in post # 4117 ~!!!!
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Ok great - I'll give the pattern to Bob and he will get the holes routed in the next few days.
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Great suggestion, bassjigga! The simplicity and functionality/accessibility of the control design paradigm and layout is great!
What a great layout! Shim, you're a lucky guy, I can't wait to hear your comments when you get this!
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Thanx Mark.I really love my bass. It's unbelievable. It's amazing. It's Moving~~!!
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ANd... Mica, did you see my request on Ron's signature?
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Which accent laminates are you expecting? This is the standard lamination for a Signature Deluxe bass
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/34945.jpg)
This is what is on your reference bass, "Raging Bass"
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/34946.jpg)
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I prefer the Raging Bass Accent Laminates, but Can I get this style in price which I promised with Susan and Beaver??
If I can, I will go to Raging Bass Accent Laminates for my bass.
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I prefer the Signature Deluxe which the lamination boost in front the nicest of woods...(??)
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Hi, Pierreyves~
Thanx for your comments.
But, I cannot understand what you mean;;;;
Frankly speaking, I am poor at English.
-
And, Mica~ I have a questions.
I wonder what means Tummy contour.
I want to get the bass like Raging bass, so I included option Tummy contour like it, but, I don't know what the Tummy contour. Can you explain that option?
And.....
If I want to change my spec... instead of Tummy contour and Avalone inlay, can I change them to additional treble and bass cut/flat/boost switch?
I know the price of them is same the cost to install the additional switches.
Please answer my question~ Thanx.
-
Mica, did you see my questions? :D
I'm waiting for your answer, but I think, I must go to sleep for next day.
I hope to get your answer in tommorow morning.
Thanx. Always. :D
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shim, if you want, I prefer the simplicity !!
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Shim, that is a picture of the tummy contour. The one that shows the Raging bass accent laminates. That concavity makes the bass more comfortable to hold since the edges don't dig into your ribs.
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I can confirm the accent laminates like Raging Bass for your order, Shim.
I made a new thread for discussing exchanging the tummy contour (http://club.alembic.com/index.php?topic=7660) for bass and treble switches. Please look there for details.
Friday is the last day I can accept any changes on your order, because we need to start building it on Friday to meet your delivery requirement.
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Pierreyves , Thanx your additional explaination for me.
So, I have the question.
How much the laminated body influence the sound of bass?? For example, what is the difference between the simple laminated body, and additional accent laminated body in their sound??
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It's not a dramatic difference. The accent lamination is half the thickness of the top. Maple and Purpleheart will have similar sounds as accent laminations. Maple may wind up being a very small amount brighter sound, but I think it would still be difficult to distinguish.
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And... jorge_s , Thanx for your kind explaination~! :D
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Mica, Just so Shim doesn't get confused when looking at the photo, the core of my bass is Vermilion. By the way, I am quite honored that others are using my bass as inspiration for their own designs. Michael
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I understand from your last email you want the neck pickup moved .75cm farther away from the fingerboard compared to this bass (http://www3.alembic.com/img/inst/13638_upviewL.jpg).
Please confirm that I understand your request correctly.
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Yes, Right~ Mica. :D
-
And, someday, I hope to change my electronics to Series 2. Can you make the hole preparation for exchanging the electronics someday?? I think a fake nobs are necessary for this. Should I pay any additional fee??
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Mica, Happy new year :D
Please confirm my answer about the specs of my bass.
Thanx.
-
And if I want to set bass and treble switch(flat/boost/cut) in my electronics, how much should I pay for that?
There is not enough time to meet our appointment. Did you start making my bass??
-
Prepping the bass for future Series II electronics is $1300 additional. This includes making the body thicker to actually hold the electronics, mounting the humcanceller pickup, making and mouting the two additional backplates, shielding the upper body half, mounting the 5-pin housing. We don't drill for all the future holes, just leave room so they can be drilled.
Also, the bass will have to come back to the factory to have the electronics installed. While the prepping for the future electronics makes the job easier (and possible), there is still calibration work once everything is installed that must be done here. Take this into consideration when making your decision.
This decision will have to be made quickly, since a neck made for your original specifications will not be thick enough for the Series II body thickness.
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Ok... It is too expensive to me. :D
I don't have enough money....
So... I want to know the additional fee for treable and bass cut/flat/boost switch.
I'll go to Signature electronics so you can start making my bass. Thanx Mica.
-
And I want to know the additional fee for installing Fat boy.
One Fatboy for the bridge, and onotehr AXYs for Neck.
Please answer it. :D
After knowing additional fee, I can decide the Pick-up for my bass.
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Adding one set of switches is $400. This will control the bass cut/flat/boost and treble cut/flat/boost for the overall sound.
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So if I want to bass and treble switch in my bass, I should pay $800 , shouldn't I?
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Only if you want 4 switches. With 4 switches, you have 2 switches for each pickup.
The $400 quote is for adding 2 switches that control the overall sound.
-
And, please answer the additional fee about installing FatBoy. :D
We discussed about the AXYs and Fatboy, they told me the price of them might be same. Am I wrong?
-
Okay, Mica.
Can I consider if I could pay for the additional switches? If I can afford to them, I want to have additional two switches which can control the overall sound.
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From the tummy contour thread, I understand that you want to add:
bass cut/flat/boost
treble cut/flat/boost
to affect the overall sound of the bass. These switches will be partially paid for by change from abalone inlays to mother of pearl. I'll add the FatBoy pickup and the switches to the order, adjusting for the inlays, and send the new details to Beaver in the morning.
Thanks for taking care of all these issues, Shim. Now we can get the work started on your bass. Soon I'll be posting pictures in the build record area.
-
.
(Message edited by Shim on January 04, 2007)
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Mica~ Thanx your help to make my bass. :D
And I hope to say, Please choose the best top wood for my bass, like RagingBass. If you can, My all efforts to my dream bass, can be over~!!!!!
-
And, I wonder if you can install my additional switches, not 3 way toggle switch, but 3 way nobe like pick-up select nobe.
I think the nobe would be more suitable in my bass. Can you install the nobes for me??
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Sorry, but 3-position rotary switches are not available from stock. Custom switches usually take 6-8 months to arrive from the manufacturer.
The pickup selector switch is 4-position. Iy's a much more complicated (and expensive) wiring to use these rotary switches instead of the normal toggle switches for this operation.
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Oh... so is there any other choice to install my switch to nobe??
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You can have the function on a potentiometer rather than a switch, like the bass and treble controls on the Epic/Orion/Excel basses. Then you will have the funtion available by knob.
The idea of the toggle switches is to have quick and repeatable changes available. When you change this to a pot, you'll gain all the settings in between, but you lose the quick access. It's just a question if you want quick changes or more available settings.
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is their cost more or same? If the cost of knob is more than switch (as I quess), I'lll go to the normal toggle switch. And If you say their costs are same, I'll think about them. It's just a small option about my bass and electronics will be installed after caving the bass, so you can make my bass in time. Please answer about my question, Mica~
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It's a small amount extra for the knob style, $500 instead of $400.
Your bass was started today. I prefer you make your decision within another week about the electronics so there isn't any delay when it comes time to route the electronics. We will place all the controls slightly differently depending on if you have standard Signature electronics, if you add the switches or it you add the knobs.
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You should really think about whether you want quick changes, or more possible settings.
If you like the look of knobs better, and you do not really need to quickly choose one of three possible settings with the control, then I think you would be better off with the potentiometers (knobs with no fixed settings).
With the three position toggle, you might find that you only use two of the positions, and wish you had more choices in between.
If you need to be able to just flick a switch for a different sound, for a solo or something, then the toggles might be a good choice.
But otherwise, I think it would be worth a small amount of extra cost to have a more flexible control.
Just my opinion. Good luck.
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Thanx your opinion, bob~
I have a question.
Is there difference in control range between knob and toggle?
What I mean... If I install the toggle, how much dB could I add or cut?
and... If I install the knob, how much dB could I control?
is there difference??
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I am sorry, I don't know the exact values off hand. You may be able to find them in the FAQ section, or by searching, but you never know exactly what Alembic is doing these days.
My guess is that the cut and boost on the toggle, would be pretty close to the extremes of the range with a standard knob. I think it is safe to say that a knob will get you at least as far as the two (non-flat) positions with the toggle; it may go a little further, but I don't know.
Hopefully Mica will clarify this, but I believe that the knob will give you at least as much range, in both directions, as the toggle. The difference will be that the knob allows you to pick positions in between the extremes, and offer you more flexibility - if you are willing to twiddle the knob to find the right place.
Again, my thinking is that the extremes are often less interesting than the positions in between. A toggle is nice if you need to make a fast change, in exactly the same way, but it can also limit your options.
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bob~ Mica posted about this discussion in the page Alembic bass. check it. :D
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So.... Mica, I decide about my electronics. I want to install the potentiometers (knobs with no fixed settings).
And, Please advice about the lay-out of my electronics.
My electronics will be one toggle for side LED, two Q toggles for each pick-up, two Q-control knobs for each pick-up, one volume knob, one Pan knob, and the additional treble and bass knob. Wow, so many controllers;;;;
I have no idea about their positions, and you may have many experience in it, so if you suggest the outline of electronics in my bass, it will be very helpful.
Thanx for your help, Mica and bob & bsee.
-
And, about the type of additional knobs, I prefer Pointer knobs in your shop.
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Hey Shim, I don't know if you're getting these or not, but I'd recommend 3-position Q switches. A 3-position Q (that goes either 0/4/8 or 0/3/6 or 0/6/9 dbs) is a VERY useful upgrade that is MUCH more versatile than the standard 2-position 0/8 db Q switches that are standard on the Signature, Europa, and Rogue basses. I'd recommend thinking about this.
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Hi, Mark~ Thanx for your suggestion.
I know the 3-position Q switch is more versatile, but I should consider about the money which I can use in building my bass.
Anyway, I will consider your suggestion. Thanx, Mark.
(Message edited by Shim on January 07, 2007)
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Hey, Shim, by all means, get what is right for YOU. I have experience with both the bass & treble toggles and the 2-position Q switch on my old Elan with Europa electronics; and my Custom Europa has the knobs/potentiometers, and a Q that goes 0/4/8/12 dbs.
In my opinion, Alembic's bass & treble knobs are not substantially more versatile than the switches (the 3-position toggles). The knobs only boost to 6 dbs -like the toggles- and -in my opinion- the cut isn't useful past -6dbs.
It would be different if the boost range were higher; if we were comparing knobs with a +/- range of 12 or 15 dbs to toggles with a +/- 6 db range, that would be one thing. But since the knobs only boost up to 6 dbs, which is only a moderate boost, the in-betweens don't amount to much. And I've never used my knobs to cut past 6 dbs... it just doesn't sound good... there's no point.
On the other hand, if you were to take that $100 for the price jump to the knobs, and put it into a 3-position Q, with an extra in-between position... THAT adds a LOT of VERY NOTICEABLE versatility. The standard jump of the Q from 0 to 8 dbs is a big jump, and the Q on and Q off sounds have a pretty big and stark gulf/contrast between them. I use my 4db Q setting a lot, and being able to vary it is very useful and satisfying. (I believe the price for the upgrade is or was $125 per switch, but confirm that with Beaver and/or Alembic -if you're interested.)
Anyway, get what you want, and I don't want to complicate anything for you. It's just my opinion, and maybe being able to vary the nuances of the bass and treble is more important to YOU. It's just my opinion, and one thing's for sure... it'll sound GREAT either way you do it, and all that matters is that it's what YOU want!
I'll look forward to watching them build your bass!
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Thanx your explaination for building my bass, Mark~ :D
So, in summary you recommend me, not the knobs of bass and treble, but 3-way Q switches, right?
I do hardly understand your kind explaination, sorry. ( As I mentioned, I am poor at understanding English.... )
Or, do you recommand more wide range bass and treble knob with 3-position Q switches???
Or... 4-position Q switches??
.... I'm sorry, Mark~ I might not be able to understand what you mean. T-T
Could you summary your opinion to me? If you can, it will be very helpful to build my custom.
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First, I suggest you forget about the 4-position Q switches, these are not standard and would probably take extra time and money.
Mark says that for about the same price, you could get:
a) toggle switches for bass/treble, and 3-position Q switches, or
b) knobs for bass/treble, and 2-position Qs
If you could spend more money, the best choice might be:
c) knobs for bass/treble, and 3-position Qs
If you cannot afford (c), then Mark would choose (a). He does not find a use for the extra cut you get with the bass/treble knobs. He also feels it is more important to have one extra Q setting.
3-position Q is much better than 2-position. The standard 2-position Q is 0/8dB. 8dB is a lot. If you really like Q, and want a switch that makes a big change in sound, this is fine.
But some people find that 8dB of Q is too much, and would almost never use it (a wasted toggle). Instead, they choose a 3-position toggle, with values of 0/3/6dB (or maybe 0/4/8).
Like the tone controls, it depends on whether you want to make lots of small changes, or just a couple of big ones.
I agree with Mark that 3-position Q, with small range like 0/3/6, is much better than the standard 2-position Q.
I do not agree that I would give up bass/treble knobs. The in-between settings with bass/treble knobs are much more important to me, personally, and I sometimes do use the extra cut.
If I could not have (c), I would choose (b) - but change the values on the 2-position Qs to something like 0/4. (Really, I would just borrow some extra money and get 3-position.)
My taste is different. I don't think I would ever use 8 dB of Q, but many people like this. Many people are also happy with toggles for bass/treble.
I was glad to see that you decided to get the bass/treble knobs, I think you will like them. If you can afford to spend a little more, 3-position Qs would be worth it.
I think again the choice is whether you like small changes, or big changes.
I hope that helps.
-Bob
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Thanks, Bob, you did a great job of impartially summarizing my position.
Shim, Bob pretty much summed it up.
Ideally, if money ($) were not an issue, you'd get BOTH the (bass&treble) knobs AND 3-position Q switches (or just Series II with the CVQs).
But, to the degree that money is an issue...
IF YOU HAVE TO CHOOSE EITHER one or the other, then you might want to CONSIDER sacrificing the KNOBS for the 3-position Q.
Really, Bob went and said it all. It's just a judgement/preference issue. And it's NO BIG DEAL.
You WILL be very happy with whatever you get. It's just a minor suggestion, nothing to worry about.
I found with the 2-position Q switch that is was almost harsh when you turn on the Q. It's a big jump, going from 0 Q to 8 dbs of Q.
I've seen a couple club members comment on this.
Alembic electronics are so clean and crisp, that when you add the 8 dbs of Q (the standard setting for the 2 position switches) it's almost overpowering.
I think having a SOFTER/LESSER setting is VERY useful. This is why several club members have ordered their Alembics with 3-position Q switches that go 0/3/6 dbs.
But another option you could consider would be to ask them for a lesser/lighter Q setting. If you decide you don't want to give up your knobs, and can't afford a 3-position Q, you might consider asking them to make your (2-position) Q switch a 0/6 db switch instead of 0/8. Or a 0/5 or 0/4 switch like Bob said.
Regardless, Shim, it's no big deal. You will be happy either way.
I know Alembics are expensive... I recently ordered my 3rd. But I would recommend getting the 3-position Q. After dealer discount, we're only talking about 1 or 2 hundred dollars (depending on if you get 1 or 2 (3-position) Q switches).
That's NOT really very much money; but the versatility you'll get from a 3-position Q (either 0/3/6 or 0/4/8) is MUCH GREATER than the standard 2-position (0/8 db) Q switch.
Hope this helps, Shim.
Mark
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OK, Thanx at all, Mark and Bob. Your advice is so helpful in my decision.
Actually, I want to get the Fodera bass, but once I heard the Alembic sound, I love it a lot. So I want to get the Alembic with their all versatility and their craftsmanship.
But the price is already over my deposit.
So, I would ask to Mica about the price of the additional 3 way Q toggle electronics.
I hope get the last bass in my life, so it would be worthy to pay for.
Thanx for your kind explainations~~ Mark and Bob.
I would memory your help. Thanx.
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Shim-
The upgrade from 2-pos to 3-pos Q switches was $150 per switch two price increases ago when I ordered mine. It should be somewhere between $150 and $200 today. Personally, I can hear a difference between the extra settings, but don't find them significant enough to matter for live use. If you're planning on recording, they may help, but you should then also have access to more EQ options in the signal chain, making them less necessary.
I do warn you that you need to get simple and come to a decision. Adding anything that is custom beyond Alembic's regular available components will add significant cost and time to your project. I don't believe that they just solder in a different resistor or cap to change values on switches with some testing and measurement.
If you want maximum flexibility under your fingertips when you play, go for the bass/treble knobs and the 3-way Q switches. By the way, the standard 3-pos is 0/+6/+9.
I would probably go for the bass/treble knobs over toggles in either case if I were planning to add that function. The 0 and +6 positions are just as repeatable as with the toggles and you do get a bit more flexibility. I find the +6 setting on the bass control to be a bit strong and believe that you would benefit from the flexibility there in particular.
I would also say that control is great, but so is an attractive bass with great top wood. The more switches and knobs, the more I personally feel it impacts the natural beauty of the instrument. I don't know how you plan to use the instrument, so I don't feel comfortable making a hard recommendation for you. For me, I would start simple. My first add would be the bass/treble knobs and then, if finances allowed, I would go to the 3-pos Q switches. I would also consider some custom wooden or shell-capped knobs if I were adding that many controls to the instrument.
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I like the subtlety of the 0/3/6 dB switch. The original 8 dB boost is very prominent, it adds a strong accent on top of each note that is too strong for my ears.
The 6 dB boost adds a somewhat weaker accent, but still an accent. The 3 dB boost adds a nice sparkle when the filter is fully open, and else just a gentle 'bump'.
I think I could live with just a 0/3 dB switch.
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My custom is going to have a 3 position Q at 0/3/6. The upgrade is $150 retail. Like others have said, 8db is a big amount and to me the Alembics already sound so good flat, that I only do subtle EQing so smaller changes was the way to go for me.
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It would be my guess that the effect from the amount of db boost of the Q switch probably varies with how you have your rig set up (and probably with other factors such as the wood combinations in your bass) (and of course with personal taste). For instance, I can remember that before I got my first S1, the 8db boost on my Spoiler seemed like a lot. However, now on my two main basses, the bridge Q switch stays on 9db; I never back them off. I imagine it has a lot to do with how my SF-2 is set up; but I'm sure part of it is personal taste as well.
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Mica, could you make my bass in time with additional bass and treble knobs and 3 way Q toggles?? It's important to make a decision.
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Yes, we will be able to accomplish both requests with the time available. Tony can make these modifications without having to book time on my dad's workbench.
I will make a control layout for you to review in about a week.
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From your last email I understand that you want the peghead arranged with a 2+3 pattern so the B+E strings will be on the left side and the A+D+G strings on the right side.
Please let me know if I understood your request.
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Yes, For the Quality of Low B string~!!
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Both of your examples are of 4-string basses, which have smaller pegheads than 5-strings. In this example (http://www.alembic.com/info/fc_snakeeyes.html) you can see a 5-string smaller Crown peghead.
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Okay. It's good. Thanx Mica :D
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From the tummy contour thread, you're asking to change from abalone inlays to the standard mother of pearl. Let me know if I've understood this correctly.
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Yes, Correct.
And about the shape of Peghead, I want to get the new Crown Peghead shape.
What I mean... the old type Crown Peghead is somewhat bigger than new one, right? I want to slim Peghead shape like in Bird of Prey. Of course, not including head omega carving option in Bird of Prey.
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And I add my opinion about the additional swithes in the Pick-up location and Additinal switch page. please check it, Mica~
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I think the Ragging bass Head style is good example,too. :D
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For more on the peghead, please see the peghead (http://club.alembic.com/index.php?topic=7658) thread. Thanks.
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Your bass has tummy contour specified. This is the tummy contour on Raging Bass
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/34967.jpg)
This is an extra carving that helps the bass stay in closer to your body with greater comfort.
You expressed an interest in exchanging this feature for bass and treble switches. Please let me know.
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Ok...I know what the Tummy contour means.
So... My choice is.... I want to change the only Avalone inlay option to one of the switches, and remain the Tummy contour option. And about the additional cost for one remaining switch, I'll pay for that. Okay? :D
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Susan will reply to this thread tomorrow with the price difference for AXY and FatBoy pickups.
Sorry, I do not have any sound samples for you to compare. From my last email:
quote:AXY pickups are standard. These are identical in size to FatBoy pickups. The FatBoy pickups have larger magnets internally. FatBoy pickups are made like AXY but wound on the magnets from Series I/II pickups. They have a broader frequency response.
Some people think that the FatBoy is too bassy in the neck position. FatBoy pickups are slightly more expensive than the standard AXY pickups.
If you later want to buy a spare FatBoy pickup, you can experiment or you can have them installed from the beginning.
Maybe some folks that have tried both pickups will join in this discussion and add comments about how the pickups sound different.
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I want to get other's opinion. And I don't know the additional price on it. Valentino said he could get the better sound after changing the pick-up to FatBoy, so I am interested in it.
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I checked with Susan and the FatBoy pickup is an additional $50.
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Ok. I'll install the Fat boy for my neck pickup. But, I heard the Fatboy is louder than AXYs, so if I turn the Pan to the Fatboy, does the sound become more louder?????
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While the FatBoy is louder, there is a separate preamp for each pickup inside the bass. We will adjust the gain of the FatBoy pickup at the factory so the pan control will have the same volume at either end.
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Ok, Thanx Mica. :D
If I want to exchange the Neck pick-up and Bridge pick-up for comparing, please make the wire more longer in electronics to exchange them.
And I want the gorgeous Top wood for my bass like in RagingBass. :D Please choose the most gorgeous top for me, Mica.
Thanx your help to make my bass. Thanx, Thanx, Thanx.....
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Oh.... I did mistake....
I want to install Fatboy for bridge. and AXYs for neck.
If you check my words, please answer for me.
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Not a problem, Shim. The pickup leads will be long enough that you can swap them around if you want to try the other configuration. We will supply with FatBoy in the bridge position and regular AXY in the neck.
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From your last email, I understand you want the same body shape as on the Raging Bass Featured Custom.
Please confirm that you want the regular omega carving instead of the heart omega that is on Raging Bass.
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The omega shape I think you want was the same as Bird of Prey (http://www3.alembic.com/img/inst/valval_tailpieceL.jpg), and you don't want it round.
Let me know if I've got these details correct.
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Yes, correct. Thanx~