Alembic Guitars Club
Alembic products => Factory to Customer => Topic started by: mica on December 26, 2006, 05:16:42 PM
-
Your neck is underway now:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/34677.jpg)
And up close:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/34678.jpg)
Lookin' good.
-
oooooo La La! Beautiful!
-
WOO HOO!!!
That is one fabulous looking neck! Thanks a lot for that shot, Mica!
I've been patiently checking the FTC threads pretty much every day for a while now, but figuring it would be weeks from now! And tomorrow's my freaking birthday, so happy birthday to me!
It really looks fantastic... just like what I'd hoped for. Thanks so much!!!
-
Well, Happy Birthday Mark!!!!!
That is quite a neck recipe! Aside from Walnut & Cherry, there's a little bit of everything to chew on!
Nice to see you're off to a good start!
-
Yes indeed, it is QUITE a schuh-weet neck recipe!
Since the neck is the largely the heart & soul of a bass, I really dig the idea of having a neck that is both unique in appearance & beauty AND highly functional.
Structurewise, every other laminate is extra stiff, dense hardwood... this neck follows their standard lamination pattern (on the mid/high end basses) of every other lam being Purpleheart -except the middle one being swapped for Ebony (which is even stronger).
Then I've swapped out 4 of the standard Maple lams for 2 Mahogany and 2 Vermillion laminates. I'm told that I'll still have plenty of highs from the remaining Maple laminates; and Valentino told me that actually the Vermillion, and even the Purpleheart and even Ebony actually contribute some highs as well; but they've told me the Mahogany will really round out the sound significantly, and add noticeable warmth, roundness, and richness to the sound.
Mica's told me that the lone Ebony laminate will actually still be the biggest contributor/determiner of the sound -and then after that, the Mahogany. Since Vermillion is said to sound much like Mahogany, only a little more brilliant & with a mellow warmth, I'm figuring it should be largely subsumed within the Mahagony sound -while adding a touch of it's own flavor.
I'm confident this blend of 5 proven tone-woods will rock -and will also be extremely compatible/complimentary with/to the Coco Bolo top and back!
Yeah, I had to go to the computer and check it out again first thing this morning, to make sure I hadn't just dreamed it up!
Thanks again for the pictures, Mica & gang!!! I'm really excited! Did'ja'll get the E-mail I sent with updated Coco Bolo details (sent to Val on 12/12)? I'll post 'em on a thread here in Changes/Additions. (By the way, I don't expect more than a few, at most... I've got a real clear idea of what I want, and the specs I've provided should about cover it.)
The neck is totally awesome!!! I really can't wait to see the Coco Bolo you come up with! You really COULDN'T have done a better job than you did with the Bocate top on my Europa... it was EXACTLY what I'd hoped for/imagined... only better. Everyone who sees it always flips over the top (and everything else, to be sure!)!
-
Lookin good 8SK
-
Wow, everytime I look at it, it looks a little better! I love seeing a beautiful concept go from the conceptual to reality! The concept of 3 sections of 3 woods, with the center 3 contrasting the outer sets of 3... it just looks awesome! The center Vermillion/Ebony/Vermillion section almost looks shocking visually, and almost seems to float above the other sections. And the contrast that it provides, the way it sets off the outer sections of 3, between the mahagony... wow!
It looks awesome now... and I know full well it'll look SMA (significantly more awesome) when it's finished!!!
-
Hi Mica! I called a little earlier and spoke to Bill briefly.
It sounded like the string issue is completely resolved, but I'm sometimes a little dense/thick, so I wanted to confirm what looked like a confirmation.
The other thing is just to confirm that the reach concern -that I posted on the Omega/Reach thread- isn't a concern.
I read (and re-read) your post on it, and understand the horn is a bit longer, but it wasn't clear whether than meant the reach was more, same, or less than that of a 34 inch Europa.
Since the string spacing seems confirmed, this is the only other thing. (That would require a plan/decision before further production).
And I'm curious about the width of the inner core of 9 laminates.
Thanks for you patience and graciousness. I do not want to be a pain, and I know you're a busy woman. It's just that I'll be thinking/wondering about it the whole long weekend, and I figured I'd give it a quick shot to see if I could find out about/resolve the reach issue.
Once we get this one issue resolved, ol' Mark'll just kick back patiently and let'cha do your thing!
Hey, if you're too busy to respond today, please don't hurry! I just had to give it a quick respectful try!
I'm thrilled that construction had begun, and much sooner than I'd hoped for! I had January 15th circled as the day I was gonna call or post respectfully asking if anyone knew how close it was getting in the pipeline! So when I saw Mark's Custom 6-String here in FTC, I just flipped!
Hope you & your family and staff -and heck, their families too- all have a nice new years.
You've already got mine off to a swingin' start!!!
-
King,...
Dude, that is gonna be one MONSTER bass!!!
The 'Ho...
-
Thanks, Mike!
I'm looking forward to joining you in the Coco Bolo Club!
I can't wait to see what they come up with for Colo Bolo for me -you can see what I've asked for here in FTC- but the neck is off to an awesome start! The Vermillion and Purpleheart they selected really have the significant and almost shocking quality of contrast I envisioned and asked for, and the beauty -and function- of the combination seems to speak for itself!
This will be a monster bass!!! On one level, it will merely be just another of many beautiful Alembic basses; I'm just getting Alembics' house recipe of Mahagony sandwiched within Coco Bolo, with the simple, proven, and versatile Europa electronics. 'Course I am spiffing it up more than a little by BTCering the Coco Bolo front and back, and upgrading to continuous wood backplates... so none of that beauty is lost.
And that will indeed produce a monster bass, by all accounts... and I just can't wait! But the real kicker, the thing that makes this bass already really special is this awesome neck! It just looks SO good... I know the sound will match, and boy, do I look forward to hearing it!
I'll look forward to seeing YOUR neckxt project here in FTC in the hopefully near future!
-
Wazzup, Mark!
Yep. No such thing as a typical Alembic, she'll be special just like all of them! The neck looks great, should produce a wonderful tone besides the great look.
Do me a favor,OK? Leave some really cool swirly CocoBolo for the Heart Omega MK5 DLX Balance K Purpleheart/Ebony that should be showing up middle/late Jan. on FTC (SHHHHHHHH! Don't tell anyone!)
Thanx!! Can't wait to see the progress on your Beast! The 'Ho......
(Message edited by 5stringho on December 31, 2006)
-
Dang you and your fancy pants neck 8SK. Now I'm thinking about whether I should add some mahogany into mine. Looks like it's time for another friendly call to Susan.
-
I measured the laminates on your neck, Mark. Measuring across the nine laminates is 1.318 inches.
-
Thanks a bunch, Mica. I'm pleased as punch with the way it looks, with the proportions and also how the overall colors and contrast meet the specifications I requested. I'd hoped for a little darker Mahogany, but it looks far too awesome for me to be able to be anything other than completely pleased. (And just for the record, Valentino DID advise me -actually I think you did too- that there were many different colors of Mahogany, and that if I were to be really picky, it would most likely entail additional time and expense. So even if there were a snivel on my part, it'd be groundless, 'cause I knew going in that the Mahogany would be based on availabilty and best judgement of the builders. But this is just to give Valentino credit for making this clear, the fact is, I'm thrilled with the appearance!)
But I'm even happier now, because the inner core is wider than the minimum I'd requested.
So... double thanks!
Long-windedly yours, Mark!
-
NOTE: I'm submitting this post in 2 places: here, and in the concerns over reach thread in changes/additions.
Hi all. I just got off the phone with Valentino, and based on our conversation, I now feel COMPLETELY secure with my decision to stick with the Balance K Omega. Further, (again, based on that conversation) there doesn't seem to be any need for an extended horn/pistol grip. So I'm withdrawing the request for price info on that.
So I'm giving you the go-ahead to proceed with the original plan, and I appreciate your having beared with me while I went through the necessary inconvenience of figuring it out and making sure I'd get the right thing for me. I now feel very confident about it.
So at this point, I'm going to kick back and leave y'all alone for a while. The biggest pending issue is just the Coco Bolo, and again, I'd appreciate the opportunity to see & approve your choices. Other than that, the only other small things are the estimate for the 5-screw setup and a price for the peghead Omega; and both of these are minor details that can be addressed down the road when the bass is actually built, so there's no hurry.
I'll be keeping my eyes peeled here on FTC, and anxiously anticipating and appreciating the updates as they come, however big or small! I look forward to the next stage -which I assume is putting on the body wings.
Thanks again for everything, and have a great weekend, folks.
Mark
-
Hey there Alembic elves! I'm dying of curiousity, and was wondering if there were any further developments!
I'd love an update, even if it's just a quickie description, if you don't have time for pictures.
Don't sweat it if you're too busy. I'm more concerned with getting a replacement quote for my 8-String for insurance purposes; but every day, I wonder if the body's been glued on, and/or if the Coco Bolo's been selected...
Boy, you folks have been doing some particularily awesome and inspiring work recently! The recent FTCs are sporting some unsurpassed examples of you folks outdoing (or trying to outdo) yourselves! I'm really feeling like I lucked out timeframe-wise in commissioning my replacement 6-String at this time! I've got a feeling whenever the neckxt pictures get posted, people are going to be drooling over my bass like I've been drooling over theirs!!!
-
Not yet. I actually do post pictures when something interesting happens. You'll be in the next group of work, these things tend to come together in clumps. The last group of assembly was primarily necks, and yours is already done. Sorry, but we don't work on every instrument everyday.
Nobody who will be working on building your bass will be involved in preparing the replacement value for your 8-string bass, so it won't interfere.
There should be something fo ryou to see in the next week or two.
-
Hey, thank's a bunch for that update, Mica!
I'll look forward to my clump!
-
Greetings, busy Alembic elves!
When you folks get a chance, I'd love an update on the status of my bass. Even a brief discription would be appreciated, if you're too busy for pictures.
Thanks folks, have a great weekend!
-
Since I didn't get the work order back to the shop until the day after the last group of bodies was made, you're going to see stuff happening with the next group of body glue-ups, probably a week or so.
I gave Bob a stack of reference pictures for your Coco Bolo, and he said he knows just the piece.
-
Thanks, Mica, that's great, to hear, thanks for letting me know!
It's exciting to hear Bob has something in mind!
Just to cover the basses/communicate...
I want to double-check/remind/make sure Bob knows the disguised BTC is an essential priority.
I double-checked my postings here in my FTC thread with the Coco Bolo, and stand by them. I've added a comment or two here and there, -like adding Shim's bass to the list, especially his concentrics- but that list stands as a reference.
Once again, I'm really excited, and look forward to seeing the front and back when it happens... and I'm betting the finish will really make the neck look awesome too!
Thanks again, Mark.
-
hey mark what body style are you going with? with the nice neck lams. i say a balanced k with a stinger. the stinger point looks awesome with the nice colourful lams throughout
my custom would prolly be something like val's bird of prey but with a heart stinger and a center vermillion strip flanked by ebony,maple,then mahoghany wide strips. close to yours
-
Mark,
What is a disguised BTC? Bookmatch to center, but disguised?
Bradley
-
Hey guys! I'm getting a Balance K Omega. I considered a stinger very seriously -but decided not to get it. I considered all the variations, and was more or less equally interested in all of them; and being sort of deadlocked, I just defaulted to the least expensive omega option -the standard circular omega cutout. And since then, I've decided to add a mini-omega in the peghead -and also the dual bevel. So at this point, I think it would be better to have an omega at either end -than to have the stinger at one end and the mini-omega at the other.
Bradley, my intent for the BTC is for it to not be apparent that there are two halves of wood joined at the center.
Sometimes it's REALLY obvious with BTCs that there are two separate pieces of wood, joined at the center. Quilted and Flamed Maple are notorious for this -something about how the light refracts differently on the figuring with the two different halves of wood. Even on the best Alembics, you'll see an obvious line down the middle... and I can't stand it.
This is why I'd never choose Maple for a BTC top or back -it will always have this line.
Now other woods disguise the line of symetry very well -especially liney woods like Zebrawood, or woods that at least are liney in the middle, or that have figuring that lines up on either side of the line of symetry.
I specificed a disguised BTC for my custom 8-String, and they did a great job with the BTC Bocate top. You only notice it if you stick your face right up next to the top and look for the line... otherwise, it looks like one continuous piece of wood across the top.
So, I've specified that detail for this bass too. I don't want the line of symetry to be obvious. The easiest way to disguise it is just to have liney figuring in the middle, or to have figuring that is more or less parallel to the neck in the middle -as opposed to figuring that goes from side to side across the line of symetry, and which may not line up, and draw attention to the fact that the top is really two pieces of wood.
-
Oh, I get it.
I think I inadvertently (and thankfully!) did that on my 6-string. I don't think I'm quite as sensitive to it (i.e. don't tell my wife about the quilted maple bass I intend to order someday), but I agree that it looks cool to have it look seamless.
The one thing that was a bit of a disappointment to me was the interface of the fingerboard/neck to the BTC-- there's a gap at the edge of the fingerboard. In other words, the top laminate follows the outer edge of the neck, not the fingerboard (alternately, the neck interface is at right angles, but trapeziodal would follow the fingerboard). If I'd known this, I would have specifically ordered it flush to the fingerboard.
You can see an example of this here:
http://alembic.com/info/FC_tiger.html (http://alembic.com/info/FC_tiger.html)
If you look closely at the neck joint, you'll see the edges of maple.
You're early enough that you might want to think about it. It affects comfort taper more than classic spacing, for the fairly logical reason.
Bradley
-
Hey Mica, if you see this note and Bradley's post on the previous post, he's right about this.
This was actually a minor disapointment on my 8-String... there is a little Maple visable between the BTC Bocate on the top, and the fingerboard. So, if at all possible, I'd prefer the BTC Coco Bolo go all the way to the fingerboard, so the outer (Mahogany) neck laminate won't be visible from the top of the bass.
Bradley's example does show this clearly... Tiger, while looking awesome, does have a visible maple line on either side of the fingerboard, and it would look better without it... it would look better if the BTC top went all the way to the fingerboard. My 8-String also has a little Maple showing on either side of the fingerboard (and more on one side than on the other, too).
It's a relatively minor snivel... but he's right, and I'd like to request y'all try and avoid/minimize it. I know it can be done, 'cause most BTC Alembics I've seen don't have this visible line on either side.
Another greater snivel (for me) is that I've seen two otherwise great-looking BTCered Alembics that don't have the pinstrips line up.
They are Coco Bolo Fantasy, and The Roman Conqueror. You can see the Maple pinstripes don't quite line up... they're slightly off.
This is pretty rare for Alembics (in my experience) and it is pretty minimal... but these little details matter to me, so I would ask that, as much as possible please get these little details as close to perfect as you can.
The 3 details, again, are: (1) getting the BTC flush with the fingerboard, so the outer (Mahogany) neck laminates aren't visible from the top; (2) making sure the pinstripe(s) line up at the line of symetry; and (3) getting the Bird tailpiece as centered as possible.
Thanks again, sorry for being so picky.
And Bradley, thanks a lot for pointing this out. This was/is a minor annoyance with/on my 8-String -but somehow it didn't occur to me to communicate it to Alembic until you mentioned it -so thanks a bunch. With this fancy and expensive Coco Bolo top, I'm even more concerned with it looking perfect -or as close as possible.
-
Mark,
Just for clarity, all the BTC basses exhibit this-- it is the way they are constructed. The one exception I'm sure of is Valentino's Bird of Prey (a.k.a. the pointy bass). Valentino confirmed for me that his was special in this regard.
It may not be evident at all on a narrow spacing 4-string, but definitely becomes more prominent as you add strings and comfort taper.
Bradley
-
Hey, Mark!
Just peeked at your question about finishes, and I'll try to give you a little heads up. I have a coupla basses with a hi-gloss polyester finish and satin finish on the back of the necks.
And I've got 2 more (one being my Excel) that are going to Cincinnati in a few weeks to have the necks stripped and re-finished with the Satin. This is pretty standard fare anymore. Matter-O-Fact, Mica 'splained to me that this is the standard recipe on Alembics these days. You have to specify if you WANT the hi-gloss on the neck. There is no drawback to this, that I have noticed. A kind of oil/wax is put on the neck,to protect the wood,and I , along with a lotta other playahs prefer the wood feel.
I'm not sure exactly concerning materials, but I think the oil finish on the body is just the same as the satin finish. My 6 string Ibanez is the same all over, and it's really nice,and some say this finish allows the wood to breathe, and therefore sound better. I personnaly have not noticed this to have any affect on tone, and I believe, the Hi-Gloss is THE thing to have on an Alembic. Just turns a 10 into an 11, knowutimean??
Look at Raging Bass. You can see the satin transitioning into gloss at the headstock. As with everything else, the Mothership does a flawless job on this.
Hope my ramblings help. I'm sure Mica will give you all the specifics, answer any concerns,and help you make your final choice. Just though I'd give you a little personal experience info.
Have Fun, Mike (the 'Ho).......
-
The combos you guys are coming up with are truly amazing. I would not have even considered anything other than an ebony lam or two. Isn't it also impressive that Alembic actually does these?
Best of luck to you Ho and your fellow neck gourmets. I watch with great interest each day. Was 8 string the guy who initiated some of this back in 98-99?
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/37317.jpg)
-
Thanks for your input, Mike, I appreciate it! And I'm not worried about it. I'm certain Mica and the elves will advise me of, and produce the ideal option for me. It sounds like the combo of high-gloss for the body and the satin finish for the neck will be ideal -barring any downside/tradeoff I'm not aware of.
Unless there is such a downside/tradeoff, this would probably be my preferred choice.
Now, the reason for this combo is that the satin finish on the neck is easier to play, right? I HAVE had a few occaissions playing my 8-string -particularily when playing in the summer and being sweaty- that I've had to interrupt my playing and wipe off the neck because (yuck) stickieness had disrupted the smoothe flow of playing and shifting positions. I assume this is one of the things the satin finish is intended to address/reduce?
The only theoretical downsides that pop into my mind (which may be nothing more than figments of my imagination, resulting from ignorance) are that the neck might not be quite as pretty without the glossy/shiney finish, and perhaps the finish doesn't protect the wood/lock in the moisture of woods in the neck -as well as the high-gloss finish? (Probably just silly-talk.)
I'm more function-oriented than I am appearance-oriented... although I want this bass to be as pretty as possible. I'm sure the high-gloss finish over front & back BTCer'ed Coco Bolo should have quite a show-stopping appearance! I'm not overly-concerned about the neck not looking as good as it otherwise wood with the glossy finish instead of the satin finish; I can't imagine Alembic would choose to use this combo as their current standard recipe if the appearance wasn't up to snuff.
One thing I'm pretty curious about... does the satin finish also cover the BACK of the peghead... or does it just go up to where the veneers begin?
It seems like it would look better and make more sense to have the entire headstock/peghead be high-gloss, and have ONLY the back of the actually neck (the part my palm/hand/thumb contacts) to be satin finish.
Does anyone know the answer to this?
Thanks again for your feedback, Mike, gang.
Danno, to my knowledge, I was the first person to have an Alembic commissioned with a combination of Ebony, Maple, and Purpleheart... but I've wondered about this too, and would be interested in confirming whether or not it's so.
The neck on my 8-String is an exceptionally awesome blend of form & function; it's absolutely stunning appearance-wise... and the sound is phenomenal -the best I've ever heard, period. It's actually made up of 4 different woods, as the inner Maple lams are Rock Maple, and the outer laminates are Flame Maple (and also continueous pieces of wood which flow all the way up into the headstock from the body). To my knowledge, this is a feature which is unique to my bass. And the 3 sections of Purpleheart sandwiched within Ebony give the instrument unbelievable sustain and bone-crunching bottom... Ramis' all-Purpleheart/Ebony-necked basses are the only Alembics I've seen that might be able to top mine in sustain.
Yeah, we're living in the age of cool necks... Alembics have been the most awesome sounding, playing, and looking basses since the beginning... we all know this.
That said, I don't think they've EVER looked better than what they've been kicking out the past couple years. The elves are really outdoing themselves!!! I've got a feeling that when my Balance K gets its top & back, it's going to be a pretty formidable contender in the looks department! Hopefully, we'll know soon!
This is a GREAT time to get an Alembic!
Long live the empire!!!
(Message edited by the 8 string king on March 11, 2007)
-
Mark..... hello ??!! How do you feel ?
I have a little question:
what is this strange irregularity under your down right knob ?
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/44259.jpg)
-
I don't see an irregularity pierreyves. You'll need to describe what you think is off.
graeme
-
Look at both pictures ???
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/44312.jpg)
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/44313.jpg)
-
Hi gang! I've been extensively playing my new Signature Balance K, and... it's just incredibly awesome.
I had to go back and re-adjust the neck again; after sitting overnight, I guess the adjustments settled in more, and when I was playing it earlier, I found the action had become too high... so I reversed 3 of the 10 1/6 turns/rotations I did the the truss rods, slightly lowered the bridge back to where it was, and lowered the nut almost all the way, leaving just a little raised on the bass side. It's perfect, or close to... the B string is almost buzzing... borderline.
Anyway, again, it's just incredible, awesome in every respect. The beauty of the instrument is stunning; it just has tremendous presence. The sound quality is fantastic, and the upgraded electronics kick some serious butt. And the Balance K is awesome looking and extremely comfortable to play.
It's exactly what I wanted... everything I hoped for -and a little bit more. Though it can't compete with the range and power of my Ebony neck-fortified 8-string Europa... it wasn't designed or intended to. Different paradigm.
The bass is just incredibly comfortable and easy to play... I can just totally shred on it. The combination of the shorter scale, narrow neck, and Balance K body make it by far the most comfortable and playable bass I've ever played. It's just so easy to play it... I can't describe it.
And though it doesn't have the overwhelming power and brightness of my 8-string, it's no slouch; and, conversely, my 8-string, while having incredible low end sustain, power, and brightness, simply doesn't have as rich and complex a tone.
This bass is an incredible tone monster. The tone is just so warm, rich, versatile... and likeable. It has a very inviting tone; when you hear it, you just have to like it... it makes you like it. I can't describe it.
I'm sure it's the result of the recipe. The recipe for this bass was VERY carefully thought out. The top, back and body are Alembics house recipe; I hedged the bet, and maximized the Coco Bolo sound by getting it BTCered on both sides. Then I further customized/refined the sound by modifying the neck; the 5 different proven tone woods in the neck also contribute to a very rich and complex tone... five different great sounding woods in a great balance. It works!
A couple parting comments: I'm TOTALLY sold on Coco Bolo... it looks great, and more importantly sounds great! It's very clear to me why Alembic, and so many club members are gung-ho on it. Also, I think having at least one Ebony neck laminate is essential. It adds so much... even the single laminate I have in this bass contributes noticably and substantially to the sound. But the Mahogany/Vermillion component to the sound is also VERY noticable, and just great. The Balance K body is just amazing, and I give it the highest recommendation. And finally, I have to strongly advocate the electronics package I chose. I love it, it's awesome, and I'd encourage everyone to get it (if you can afford it.
I've already played around with it LOTS, and I've come to the conclusion that I'd be less than satisfied with either the standard Europa or Signature electronics. Don't get me wrong, they're both great, and versatile. But I just don't find a 2-position Q switch to be enough. I'm used to 4 options (0/4/8/12) with my 8-string; but the 3-position Q is enough -as a minimum. But having the bass & treble controls also is IMO absolutely essential. They complete the electronics, and give a substantially greater degree of control over the sound. If money wasn't an issue, I'd have gotton a set for each pickup... but I have to say the master set works great.
The versatility of this system is amazing. With individual filters, I choose the tone for each pickup with the Q at the 6db setting; then I can either boost it up to 9dbs, or cut it if I prefer; then I mix the sound with the blend control. And then I can add or cut bass and/or treble with my EQ knobs. It's perfect.
I have to say that this is, for me, the ideal MINIMALISTIC electronics package. I don't think I'd be satisfied with anything less. But that said, as a minimalistic electronics package... it's PERFECT.
Individual filters, 3-position Q switches, and a single/master pair of bass & treble controls... this setup rocks, provides incredible versatility, actualizes the sonic potential of the instrument, and is simple and intuitive to use!
Oh, Pierre-Yves, I don't know what to make of your pictures; they're obviously the same picture as Mica posted above, yet your two pictures have some dark wavy line or figuring going across the middle of your circle that isn't present in the picture Mica posted... so again, I don't know what to make of it. But there isn't any issue on the bass itself.
Take care, gang! It seems a little strange to be out of the process now (but I'm REAL happy to have my bass, obviously!!!). I'll be looking forward to everyone else getting their customs, and watching their progress.
And I'll try to get some pictures posted soon. My girlfriend and her camera are with her parents for Yom Kippor, but she'll be back soon, and hopefully she'll have the time to take a couple pictures soon.
Take care, best wishes, all!!!
Mark
-
It was a little joke, just to affraid you 2 seconds!!
;o)
PICTURES???????????????????????????????????????????
-
Mark, there's very little left to say that hasn't been said about your stunning bass, as another big fan of the balance K body I think that what you and Alembic have conspired to achieve is a gift to the world of craftmanship and Luthiery (if thats a word) and myself being, as you know, a relatively new owner of the same body shape I'm confident you are just going to keep on diggin it. It gets better... and better... and better...and better... etc
It's easy to say this, but I'm improving daily as a musician because these instruments allow for it.
I hope you do too.
Jake
-
Pierre-Yves you fiend!!! HA HA!!!
Jake, I hear ya... it's just amazing... all superlatives are inadaquate! The Balance K is just the most awesome body shape, the perfect blend of form and function, awesome looking and awesome feeling. I've been playing it extensively since it arrived, just putting it down for short periods. It's strange for me -being used to my 8-strings and 31 frets- to have only 6 strings and 24 frets... but it's so much more easy to play, so light and maneuverable...
It makes me want to play more, I think. The 8-string's great, awesome in every respect... sound, range, and versatility of the electronics... but it takes more effort.
The 6-string is virtually effortless to play and it has the most charming and likeable tone.
It's inspiring!!!
I'm going to go play now!
Nice hearing from everybody!
-
Mark, just try to play a 2 strings, and short time after, a mono string ... with your girlfriend ->!!!
Ouaaarrrrfff!!!!
It's inspiring!!!
I'm going to go play now!
& sleeping sure....
-
Mark man your reports are makin me want mine even more! Can't wait to see your pictures. You've got a good candidate for featured custom there.
-
Hi Mark,
I haven't had much time to check in for a few days so I'd like to congradulate you again and am so happy for you! You sound tremendous!
Listen, rather than go back through alot of posts I'd like to ask you a couple of questions.
1. How are you tuning this bass? Is the low string an B string? What is the high string? Do you tune it like a guitar?
2. Do you have a low pass filter for each pick-up?
It's really beautiful. Ole Pierre' has a pretty good touch-up program don't he? Hahahah
So I am so glad you are happy with the arrangement, style, sound, etc.
I had chosen the balance K as you know and changed back as I just loved Michael's Raging Bass and couldn't resist. I am sure that I will probably pay for this decision in the long run as far as weight and balance goes but honestly I picture myself (due to my lower back problems anyway)mostly sitting on a stool playing this bass. Also I haven't heard a single complaint from Michael about his and I have been communicating with him through a few e-mails and did pose the question. He seems to be tickled blue with his bass.
So the only thing I really worry about is the neck dive which I think I will be OK with in part due to adding the infamous Pistol Grip.
Well, Aloha for now buddy and when, and only when you have enough time to take a minute and answer my questions I will await your response but don't take any valuable time out from the babe.
Mahalo, Paul-ee
-
Paul. There's absolutely no neck dive on my 5 string balance k so there'll be even less on your bigger balance body.
Graeme
p.s. Mark - we're still waiting to see the back;-)
-
Hi guys! I'll get pictures as soon as I can... I'm dependent on my girlfriend for her camera and assistance, and her schedule's been hectic lately; tonight, for instance, she had to leave for a freelance gig shortly after my getting home... but I'll get some pictures up here and/or in Showcase as soon as I can... probably a couple of days, at least.
Paul, I wouldn't worry about neck dive; I think the model you're getting is only slightly less optimal than the Balance K... but since you're getting a pistol grip, it's probably about the same (as you postulated). I can tell you I have no problems whatsoever with neck dive on this model -which is a welcome change from my top-heavy 8-string.
As far as your questions: (1) standard/traditional 6-string tuning (BEADGC); (2) Each pickup has it's own low-pass filter and a 3-position Q switch (0/6/9 dbs -like the Series I electronics) AND a master bass and master treble control -I REALLY like these, find them EXTREMELY useful, and would not be happy without them. If money weren't an issue, I'd have gotton two separate sets... but the one set works great. Hopefully you'll be happy without the bass & treble controls on your bass... but I wouldn't be.
-
Hi, Mark!
Not much I can say that hasn't already been said! Congratz and enjoy, and get some pics up as soon as the GF's schedule allows! (Don't feel bad, I can't do it either!)
Have fun, Mike (the 'Ho)......
-
Hey Marky,
How'z it? I have a few more refined questions for ya when you get time to peel away.
First, I'm wondering how the lighter balance K body shape in your opinion affected the fundamental and or the low fatness/body on your b string? Do you think the Fatboy improved in this area? How do you now fare in the low bottom department with a lighter bass? Then connecting to the Ebony strip in your neck, did this add to fundamental or clarity? Did you increase sustain or clarity or low bottom? Are you getting those nice Piano like tones with this bass?
Or maybe I can ask this, how does this bass fare in the afore mentioned compared to your 8 String?
Do you think you gained or slightly gave back the balls with this balance K or is it holding it's own in the bottom end department? It seems with the combination of Ebony, Fatboy, and Filters you ought to be owning the World!!!
Easy buddy, see ya soon, Paul
-
Mark, your thread is dead, without pictures ?
-
Hi gang! First, Pierre-Yves, I need my girlfriends help and camera to get pictures up, and it's just been bad timing; and she has two freelance gigs today, so it won't be today... I wanna get some pictures up to show off this beauty! When I do, I'll post 'em here and/or in Showcase.
Paul: to answer your questions:
first, my new 6-string has a VERY different sound from my 8-string. On Alembic neck-throughs, the woods in the neck have the greatest impact on the sound; and the neck recipes are very different between the two basses. My 8-string has 13 neck laminates; 6 of them are Ebony, 3 are Purpleheart, 2 are Rock Maple, and the outer 2 are Flame Maple. The Ebony completely dominates the sound -and subsumes the Purpleheart sound as well, since Purpleheart is similar-sounding, but outnumbered 2 to 1 by the Ebony. Maple is the secondary sound -because after the 6 Ebony laminates, there are 4 (total) Maple laminates in the neck... AND the body is also Flame Maple. Mica sez the Bocate (top wood) has virtually no noticable effect on the sound; my 8-string has a powerful Ebony/Maple sound... it's just HUGE, and really in your face. It's an overwhelming and powerful sound, VERY smiley, with HUGH thundering lows and LOTS of brightness as well. I've never heard another bass like it. The 35 inche scale definitely helps the lows, too.
The neck of the 6-string is a VERY different recipe of FIVE different woods. The large outer neck laminates are Mahogany; Mica considers it the dominant wood of the neck -presumably because they're the biggest laminates. Vermillion is said to have a similar sound (but warmer and more brilliant, with a little more bottom) so these woods blend together; Purpleheart is the next most dominant wood -with 4 laminates- adding stiffness, sustain, and low-end definition -although the 1 Ebony laminate in the middle contributes noticably to this sound; Ebony sound similar to Purpleheart, but has MUCH MORE of these attributes, and a VERY NOTICABLE effect on both sustain in general, and sustain of the lower partials in particular. Though the effect is MUCH LESS than on my 8-string... it's still very -and surprisingly- noticable. But since there's only one laminate, it doesn't totally dominate the sound like on my 8-string; it blends in, and allows the sound of the other woods to be heard. With only 2 Maple neck lams, the neck is less bright than my 8-string; but I can still get plenty of brightness from the filters with the Qs -and/or the treble boost.
Now that I've given a detailed general comparison, I'll try to answer your questions more specifically:
(1) I don't think the Balance K body -the lightness- has effected the fundamental at all. It's NOT nearly as powerful as my 8-string... but I think that's because of the 34 vs. 35 inch scale, and more importantly, the overwhelming impact of the 6 Ebony neck laminates in the 8-string. That said, the B string sounds great, and is full of bottom end, very fat-sounding. For some reason, the sustain seems less on certain frets(on the B string specifically)... I'm not sure why this is. It seems to fade quicker on the 7th and 8th frets. I may ask Alembic about it. The sustain on the EADG strings is VERY noticably superior to other basses -even Alembics- clearly due to the Ebony neck lam, but also due to the Coco Bolo that I have BTCered on both the front and back. There's no missing the Coco Bolo sound -and it also clearly contributes a lot to the low end. I've got to say it's a killer combination -Coco Bolo with an Ebony neck laminate.
(2) As far as I can tell, the Fatboy does add a lot of fatness and low end to the sound; it's more powerful sounding than the neck pickup (usually the other way around) and I may have to open up the back and monkey with the trimpots to balance out the sound a bit. But both pickups sound great, and deliver lots of bottom end.
(3) The Ebony neck lam clearly adds both lots of clarity and bottom -so does the Coco Bolo. There's no missing it
(4) I've already answered much of this above; but a different/shorter answer would be that the Balance K has a more neutral/centered sound as it's starting point. What I mean by that, is that the 8-string has a very extreme sound to begin with; if I set all the e.q. controls to flat, and turn the filters off, it still has an incredible knock your socks off low/high sound... the Ebony sound from the 6 neck laminates is overwhelming, and it's also very bright from the Maple. Imagine notes from a normal bass as being cannonballs shot through a wall... my 8-string fires I-beams! When I use my electronics, it gets even MORE extreme! If I further boost the bass with the bass control... WHOA! You've got to hear it.
The 6-string sounds incredible, but it doesn't have such an extreme sound. In some ways, this makes it more versatile. I think perhaps there is a greater range of usefulness to the electronics. While extremely elaborate, I rarely use the full capacity of my electronics on my 8-string; it's already so bright and boomy to begin with that I rarely use the maximum bass and/or the maximum treble and/or the maximum Q. On the other hand, since my 6-string ISN'T so/as bright and boomy to begin with, it's more conducive to using the full range of the filters and e.q. controls without being completely overwhelming.
(5) Yes, I'm most definitely getting nice piano-like tones with this bass; the 8-string gets them too... but the sound is very different.
The 6-string has an overall richer and more complex sound; it's hard to describe, but it's very likable. It just makes you like it.
The 8-string is sort of like the Hulk... very big, strong, powerful... almost intimidating; the 6-string is more like Spider-Man... not as strong, but still very strong, but also very light, fast, and agile... full of finesse.
(6) The bottom end is very satisfying. Nothing compares to my 8-string (at least nothing I've ever heard); but, that said, the 6-string has noticable and superior bottom end to start with (with all controls flat); and I can get PLENTY of bottom by using the filters & Qs and/or the bass boost.
I've got to say I'm extremely happy that I got the electronics package I did. I wouldn't have been happy without both the filters & Qs AND the bass & treble controls. They complete the package, and make it possible to quickly and easily get any sound I want. The 2 filters and the blend allow considerable control over the tone... but being able to just have more or less bass and/or treble by turning one or both knobs makes it perfect, and allows a degree of tone control you can't get with just the filters. The filter & Q setup is great... but they're NOT e.q. controls. Sometimes you want more bass, and the only way to get it is if you have a bass boost control.
I find that I like to use all the tone controls on my bass, and generally use them all. I'm finding I generally use a little of BOTH the bass and treble controls... about 1/2way, sometimes a little more with the bass -if/when I really want a booming low end.
I'm guessing your bass will sound sort of halfway between the two. With 3 Ebony neck laminates, the Ebony will likely dominate your sound; and then, since Maple is the next most plentiful neck wood, coupled with the fact that your body is also Maple -this should be the next biggest influence. I'd expect the Vermillion neck laminates and the Coco Bolo to have (relatively) the least impact on your sound; but hopefully they'll still contribute noticably at least a little. Since you've got Coco on both sides, it seems like it should... but the Ebony WILL dominate. Don't worry, this is a good thing. And with Series II electronics, you'll have considerable tonal control. I still think you'd be happier with the e.q. controls -but of course, that's your decision, and you should follow your best judgment, not mine.
I'm guessing there'll be an update soon on your beauty, I'll look forward to seeing it. With your unique custom neck and Quilted Coco Bolo, it'll be a unique and stunnng beauty!
Again, I respectfully suggest you get it insured at least for a 1/2 year -just in case there's any problem with shipping, so you don't get whored!
Take care, Mark
-
Crazy Mark ... 2365 lines ???
;o))
no picture ?
;o)
-
Hey, gang, I finally got some pictures posted over in Showcase... here's the link:http://club.alembic.com/Images/411/44656.html?1191190210 (http://club.alembic.com/index.php?topic=8731)
-
Hey, Mark!!
Just a quick question: You just have a single Master Bass/Treble (with standard single pair of 1 Bass/1 treble Boost/cut control knobs) control circuit that covers both P/U's, right? Not 2 separate pairs, one for each P/U?
Just wanted to make sure.
Thanks for the info! Now return to plucking!!
BCOOOOL, Mike (the'Ho).....
-
Yep, that's right, Mike, just one set/pair of bass & treble knobs for both pickups... that's why my bass has two extra knobs -6 total instead of the usual 4 for Signature electronics.
I works REALLY well... it just makes sense. The individual filters & Qs let you get the sound you want from each pickup; then you mix the two pickups with the blend control; and then, if you want more (or less) bass and/or more (or less) treble... you just turn the knob(s). It's awesome! I use them both constantly... I use all the controls constantly. I love boosting the bass anywhere from halfway to all the way; and I use the treble sometimes to brighten up the sound if I'm using the filters in a lower (non-trebly) position.
You have to experience it to appreciate it... but I give it the highest possible recommendation. If I'd had more money, I'd have got the knobs for the neck pickup, and a pair of toggles for the bridge pickup... but I have to say the master set works great! Get a pair for your Signature... you won't be sorry!!!
-
Thanxxx, Mark! Sounds like yer set-up has ya kinda tickled!! 'Preciate the advice, and mebbe keep an eye on the old FTC of mine for some possible enhancements to the electronics package.... ;)
Have a great weekend! TTy, Mike (the'Ho)
P.S. Wherz those sound bytes?????????
-
Oh Hello Mark,
Howz things going? Remember me your ole friend Paul? I'm one of the guys still waiting for my bass like some of the rest of your ole friends like Bradley and cowsmilk and pierreves and Jimmy and 5string and Jacko and Jakebass and bassjigga and flaxstacks and mgreen and Olie and tbrannon and artswork99 and bkbass and jtussing and grateful and crgston and deano and fcspoiler and jlpicard and lbpesque and 83daion and Mele_Alo-oh no, wait a minute, that's me. But anyway these are just a few off the top of my head of whom which are still waiting for our rigs.
I'm sure you are really busy with work and all and playing that baby now and everything but uh ya know, that was sure a heck of a lot of writting that sure dwiddled down to nothin.
Now things have been aweful quiet around here and usually when someone gets their rig they kinda come back in here and give us a little sound byte or a stroke on the back and a little hope you all get yours soon now and dis and dat.
Now I don't mean to be causin in kinda disterbance
-
Don't worry, Paul, just be patient. The thing is, they're going to do your bass RIGHT, just the way you want it...
Obviously, you'd prefer it sooner rather than later; but, if they have to choose between getting it to you sooner and falling short on the quality (or on meeting their responsabilities to other customers) vs. taking longer and getting it to you right...
well, you know what their choice'll be. And let's face it, we wouldn't want it any other way.
My friend has this chart/graph with THREE THINGS: cheap; quality; fast. You just won't get all three. You can realitically get any one of these things; sometimes you can get two out of three; but only rarely will you get all three at the same time -and certainly NOT with Alembic.
Be patient, your time will come -and probably not much longer. It WILL be worth it. I speak from experience... twice now. So accept the word of one who knows.
As far as the sound bytes go... I'm really busy trying to get a new job right now... it's occupying all my spare time. Once that's done with, and I can try and get some help from my very busy girlfriend, I do intend to try to load some sound samples from my two basses. But it'll be a learning experience. Hopefully I/we'll be able to do it... but it'll take some time, and won't be in the next couple of days, in any event.
Take care, best wishes, and be patient. It won't be long, and it'll be worth the wait. You're gonna have a BAD ASS bass!!!
-
Hey, 'King, Watz Shakin'??
Just wanted to thank you for the tip on the Gun Safe. I have one, but It's not big enuff for my axes and my lead-slingers. Guess I'll get a fireproof one for my special instruments. I'd never thought of it, but that's a great idea. The fireproof ones are fire rated @1200 degrees for 30-6o minutes. I know that means paper won't catch on fire, but I imagine it would also protect yer precious axes for a lot longer duration in the event of a catastrophe. But I'm still gonna add the extra insurance like you did!
Anyhoo, thanxxx also for the suggestion on the Bass/Treble circuit. Keep yer eyes peeled on the old FTC .), you MAY notice a little change in my electronics package!!!
BCooooooo, Bro, Mike (the 'Ho)...
-
Hey, 'King, Watz Shakin'??
Just wanted to thank you for the tip on the Gun Safe. I have one, but It's not big enuff for my axes and my lead-slingers. Guess I'll get a fireproof one for my special instruments. I'd never thought of it, but that's a great idea. The fireproof ones are fire rated @1200 degrees for 30-6o minutes. I know that means paper won't catch on fire, but I imagine it would also protect yer precious axes for a lot longer duration in the event of a catastrophe. But I'm still gonna add the extra insurance like you did!
Anyhoo, thanxxx also for the suggestion on the Bass/Treble circuit. Keep yer eyes peeled on the old FTC .), you MAY notice a little change in my electronics package!!!
BCoooooool, Bro, Mike (the 'Ho)...
-
Sorry 'bout the double post. Thought I caught it Bfore it took!!
-
Mark,
Pull up the Raging Bass on COTM. That shows an excellent example of the satin/gloss junction @ the peghead and body. From what I can see, the actual maple of the neck, including the sides that roll up the peghead are satin, w/ the veneers hi-gloss, so the entire FEEL part of the neck is satin.
My experience is that there is no concern with the Satin, the oil/wax finish that is applied gives excellent protection against moisture and stuff. It may require a litte wax added from time to time, if you may reside in an extremely moist climate, but I don't think YOU would have that problem in Lost Wages, Nevada! I just keep mine wiped off after each use, in the cases when not used, and have had no problems. Mica could clarify that mo bettah than me, with the Alembics. Concerning looks, your beast would look good with ANY finish!! What an AWESOME neck! But, you can rest assured it will be GOOOOORGEUOS with the satin finish (again, check the Rager out)And I'm sure the mothership would be HAPPY to make it any finish,to any degree, that you desire. All you have to do is let them know in time
Looking forward to seeing the progress!
Mike (the'Ho)........
-
Mark,
I have an answer, but rather than using my 1000 word allotment, I brought pictures:
http://www.alembic.com/info/fc_sixsen.html (http://www.alembic.com/info/fc_sixsen.html)
http://www.alembic.com/info/fc_nsb.html
http://alembic.com/info/fc_yahya.html (http://alembic.com/info/fc_yahya.html)
You can see that the satin neck is expertly delineated where the headstock laminates start. it is tres cool looking.
Specifically, just the neck is satin, everything else is gloss.
Bradley
-
Hey, thanks again, guys.
I appreciate the links, Bradley. I checked 'em out -and Ragining Bass, too.
-
Mark,
You're welcome.
I'm going to have the Calming Bass. Like Bob Ross painting. Let's paint a happy little bass... a nice bass.
Bob Ross would have had a satin neck, definitely.
Bradley
-
Hey Mica, Jason tells me I've got a really awesome top!
Please post pictures of the BTC halves of the top together at your earliest convenience -preferably with an outline of the body, so I know exactly what it'll look like. I'm dying of curiosity, and would love to see the top -and the back, too for that matter!
Thanks Mica!
-
Here's the peghead veneers:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/39150.jpg)
The note is to hold off on cutting the peghead until you can review some pricing details about possible changes you asked me about recently. and the body core with pinstripes:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/39151.jpg)
I've got to get with mom on the pricing for some of the options, and I just couldn't do it this week (but at least I finished all the quarterly tax returns, yay!). I should be able to get you the details on Tuesday.
-
WOW, WOW, WOW!!!
Wow, how AWESOME!!!
The peghead veneer looks absolutely AWESOME!!!
And it looks like you guys delivered another awesome and unexpected surprise... and put the pinstrips right on the body like I wanted... so they won't go over the neck!!! How unexpected... and how cool!!!
Thanks so much, that is just a really unexpected and cool feature. I remember our conversation on the matter, and remember (for reasons I didn't frankly grasp) you regarded it as extra-challenging to do... but (obviously) you did it!!! Yay! I'll like the look of this even more. I wanted it, but didn't have the $ ask/offer you more for it if it were needed, so seeing this small but meaningful feature... it just great! Thanks so much!
It does make me a bit curious about something, though... so I have to ask. Obviously, the laminated body core and pinstripes are a specific thickness here already... have these already been done based on the assumption that the body will be 1.7 inches for the Series prep? If so, that's fine, I don't really care if it's slightly wider at 1.7 instead of the already planned 1.6 for the side jack.
But... if it's NOT Series thickness... then what? I assume the logical options would be either make the Coco Bolo slightly thicker (assuming that were an option) or maybe add an additional pinstripe all the way to the center on either side to add the additional thickness... or I guess the body core could be cut in half and put another lam in the middle?
Whatever you think is best, I'm just curious what the plan is. Broke as I am, I'm really grateful for this unexpected nice touch, so if it needs to be a little thicker for the Series I prep, I could pay a little extra for an addition pinstripe or two if it were necessary for the extra body thickness (that is, assuming I can afford the Series prep in the first place).
It'll all come down to the price/cost. Since we've put a hold on the peghead bevel and mini-omega, that gives me $550 retail to potentially redirect towards the Series I prep and/or upgrading the electronics to Signature with/without a (single) set of bass & treble toggles or knobs.
It would be really nice if I could do all three things: (1) upgrade to Signature & a second 3-position Q; (2) get a set of bass & treble controls; and (3) get the Prep for Series I.
But I could probably only afford 2 out of the 3 -if that. I've checked the quote generator, and I know to upgrade back up to Signature is $400; and I'd have to pay for the upgrade for the second Q switch, which Beaver said is either $125/$150. So this would be the same cost as the bevel and the mini-omega. Then the question is, how much extra to add a set of bass & treble knobs or toggles, and how much extra for the Prep to Series -including factoring in an extra continueous back woodplate. (Again, I'm not clear on how many backplates are standard for Signature basses... I'm not sure if what I've paid for already would normally cover one or two backplates, thus, I'm not clear on whether the additional backplates -and thus, fees- for the Series I Prep would require quotes for 2 vs 3 additional woodplates -or just 1 vs 2 additional woodplates.)
IF what I've paid for would NORMALLY cover two backplates, THEN I MIGHT consider respectly inquiring if it would be possible to just upgrade to Signature (with a second 3-position Q) and add a set of bass & treble controls, and just get ONE backplate and apply credit for the second plate toward the cost of the bass & treble controls. But only if it's cool.
But I guess it comes down to cost again.
Geez, I hope I don't sound like an ingrate! Here you folks are surprising me with this unexpected treat, and I'm responding with ANOTHER long-winded post!!!
I'd better go! Thanks again so much, it looks awesome, I'm REALLY excited, and I look forward to getting the pricing info.
On a separate note... I'll tell you this has been an UNBELIEVABLY stressful and unpleasant day for us. Our mortgage lender has been extremely irresponsible about his committments to us... he's failed to communicate and honor his word, and it's caused us some pretty serious problems with planning our living arrangements, closing on our house, and packing and moving etc.
Prior to posting this, we had a LONG and very unpleasant conference call between him and our realtor -who is REALLY COOL and on the ball, and me and my gal were total steaming. So I went out and got us some beer, and when I saw this, it instantly became the high point of my day, week and month! We should have signed for our house tonight -in which case THAT would have been the high point... but... that didn't happen, and seeing this was very comforting, and well-timed!!! Thanks again so much! Gratefully yours, Mark!
YAY! THIS IS GOING TO LOOK [color=color=]SO[/color] COOL WITH THE BOOKMATCHED TO CENTER COCO BOLO GOING OVER THE NECK WITH THE PINSTRIPES GOING ONLY TO THE NECK!!!
-
Dang Mark, you're so boring. You could at least get excited about your bass. ;)
The peghead is lookin nice.
-
Thanks, Dave!!!
Yeah, I'm really psyched! As you can see, the peghead looks freaking awesome!!!
But they did something extra cool for me, out of the blue. I'd asked them before about having the pinstrips go ONLY over the Mahogany body, and STOP at the neck... in other words, to have the pinstrips NOT go over the neck (the purpose being to not shave the neck down any more than necessary -except for what's necessary for the bookmatch to center). Well, Mica indicated it was an extra hardship, so I withdrew the request. So I was very pleasantly surprised to see this... just a really cool and unexpected surprise. I think it'll look REALLY cool -having the pinstripes ONLY go to the neck, and have the bookmatched-to-center Coco Bolo go right over the neck!
I'm just totally psyched!
I've also asked them for quotes for the Prep for Series I and for the cost of upgrading to Signature and adding a pair of bass & treble controls... I probably couldn't afford to do all of these things, and I'd have to sacrifice my peghead omega and bevel...
I'll just have to see -it'll depend on the cost.
But it's all cool. Even if I just stick with the original plan of Europa electronics with the 3-position Q, it'll be cool. But it would be extra cool if I could upgrade to Signature electronics with the Series Prep and/or with a set of bass & treble controls!!!
And it'll be EXTRA COOL with this nice pinstripe-to-neck only feature I wanted but didn't expect!!!
-
Oh, P.S. congrats on taking care of the tax stuff, Mica! I'm sure it's nice to have that headache over with!!!
-
I just wanted to say thanks again for putting these pictures up for me to enjoy over the weekend, and thanks again for having the elves put the pinstrips on the body halves!
Being familiar with the Alembic building process, I was expecting to see the Mahogany body halves glued on next, before seeing the pinstripes and bookmatched-to-center Coco Bolo finally added to the front and back.
When I saw the body halves NOT glued on... but with the pinstripes already on... WOW, what a cool surprise! And they're SO thin... just like what I wanted! They'll be GREAT as contrasting laminates -separating the darker Coco Bolo from the lighter Mahogany -and I know they'll look awesome with the tummy contour and elbow contour!
The peghead front veneer looks awesome! I love the asymmetrical look -with the one half being liney and the other half being wildly figured. And it looks very well matched to the color and figuring of the board you chose for my top.
And that board looks awesome, again! Whether we go with what you've suggested initially, or what I think I might prefer -flipping it, as long as the pinched part of the figuring would be cut out anyway for the neck pickup or trussrod plate- it looks to be awesome either way.
I know y'all will probably get that board cut soon, and then we'll be able to figure the best section to use for the BTC. Hopefully the board will be thick enought to use for both sides -but if not, I'm not worried... I know you'll just find another awesome board for the other side.
I look forward to getting the pricing info for the Series I Prep and/or upgrading to Signature with an added set of bass & treble controls. I might not be able to afford ANY of these upgrades... but it's all good. Even if I just stick with the Europa setup & 3-position Q, this bass will rock. If I am able to afford the electronics upgrade, I most likely would do one or the other -that is, upgrade to Signature and and a set of bass & treble controls OR upgrade to Signature and do the Series I prep. I'd hate to give up the bass & treble controls... but if I had Signature electronics with 3-position Qs, and was set up to upgrade to Series down the road... that would be very good. I'm sold that Series basses are the ultimate -even though they don't have conventional bass and treble controls. And I could probably still add a pair of bass & treble controls if/when I upgraded, right?
Thanks again, I really look forward to seeing the body halves glued on soon, and on seeing the Coco Bolo when it's cut up! And again, I'm crossing my fingers and toes it'll be wide enough to yield quarter inch boards for both the front and back, but (again) I'm not worried 'cause I know you'll just get another awesome board if it's not thick enough!
Thanks again, Mark!
-
You'll receive an email later today with the electronics pricing options that are available to you. Since your order was not for Series I/II thickness, it's not an available option at this point to prep for future Series I/II electronics - the nack was made for the required thickness long ago. Here's the laminates in the first stage of BTC:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/39342.jpg)
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/39343.jpg)
-
Oh man I like your lams King!
-
Thanks Dave!
Mica... these look fantastic! Thanks so much again, it looks like Bob picked a wonderful board for me indeed, and I'm pleased to see it was thick enough to yield both a front and a back.
I'm assuming the top picture is the back and the lower picture is the front -as that corresponds to what I thought I'd like.
Both boards look awesome! I'd have preferred to have a little more of the inner edges trimmed off the upper board (lower picture/front of bass) to have more of the super cool area(s) on either side included on the top -it looks like most of that wood will end up being cut off- but it looks much too awesome to snivel over!
And the top picture/back of bass DOES have all that awesome super cool area figuring right in the center of the body... it looks awesome too... pretty close to what I'd envisioned.
I WOULD LIKE TO HEAR YOUR THOUGHTS ON ORIENTATION AND CONSULT WITH YOU BEFORE YOU DO THE ACTUAL CUTTING.
I originally figured on the lower picture/front of bass having the left side of the picture go towards the peghead and the right side of the picture go towards the tailpiece... but as I look at this picture, it looks like it would look just as good going the other way -as long as the pinch didn't interfere with the disguised BTC objective. It's hard for me to tell from this picture where it would be exactly. What's your opinion on this?
On the other hand, the top picture/back of bass looks to me very clearly like it would make more sense and look better to have the right side of the picture go towards the peghead and have the left side go towards the tailpiece; the figuring seems to go from wider to narrower as I look left to right -just as the Balance K body is wider at the bottom, and narrower towards the fingerboard and peghead.
So please share your thoughts. Also, when the glueing is complete, please post a straight-on flat shot of at least the bottom picture/front of bass to help give me a better picture of what orientation would look better... it's hard for me to fully appreciate due to the angle.
I'm leaning towards thinking it would look better to have the left side (of the lower picture/front of bass) go towards the peghead and have the right side go towards the tailpiece -but again, I want to know what you think before you commit to cutting it.
So it's too late to prep for Series, huh? Oh well, it'll be awesome with just Europa electronics... with/without the second filter and Q and with/without the upgrade to knobs for the bass & treble controls.
I'm psyched to see the top lams being glued together! Woo hoo! And I look forward to seeing the pricing for the electronics! I'll check again after this post!
Have a great weekend... Mom!
(Message edited by the 8 string king on May 04, 2007)
-
Hey Mica, I just got home and checked my email just a few minutes ago -and there was no email from Alembic... so if you sent it, I didn't get it -for whatever reason.
-
Well, after putting more stare time in, I have to say I'm extremely pleased... the Coco Bolo BTC lams look extremely awesome, and it looks like -as far as my untrained eyes can tell- the disguised BTC has been well-executed.
Both of these look really great, and I like the contrast that results from each pair being joined in opposite ways.
Thanks again, these'll be nice to look at over the weekend, and until the next stage!!!
-
Sorry, Mark. I'm so busy that I cannot check your question about my 3-way Q-way.
I think it's unbelieverble. It make my bass can have the wide range of sound. But, it may take times to control it to get what you want. I should practice to control them. But, I'm so happy to get these control.
-
Nice to hear from you, Shim.
Yeah, it can take a little while to figure out how to use the controls.
It take a little while for the ears and brain to figure it all out.
I suggest playing with the Q in the 4db position most of the time, and with the bass & treble controls in the middle.
Then, if you want more or less Q -or bass/treble- you just make a little adjustment one way or the other.
I hope the few minor issues you've had don't keep you from fully enjoying your Alembic... it's an awesome bass!
Take care, Shim!
-
Hey Mica, in your post 4328 in Dave's Custom Europa therea are these cool clear Europa Template things...
I was wondering if you had 'em for the Balance K yet...
I'm trying to figure out what part/how much of the wood in the above pictures will be my front and back.
I'm pretty sure I'd like it to be set up like what I described above in my post 569... but I'd like to see it and/or hear your opinion before you commit to cutting.
I largely defer to you, but would prefer a little input, insofar as once it's cut, we're committed, and if I'd have preferred it the other way... it would be too late.
It would be cool to see the outline -if you have the time.
But I know you're busy. So as long as you agree that what I've described would be equal or better looking than the alternative, then go ahead with it.
On the other hand, if you think it might look better the other way... if you think there's a strong case for me going the other way for whatever reason, then I'd like to hear your concerns and get a better look at the wood.
Thanks again for everything, and I'm keeping my eyes open for the electronics options/pricing email.
Mark
-
Don't think I can take any more of this eye boggling colour changes!?
I may be going blind
G
-
Okay, the boss told me -most diplomatically- that I've gotton carried away with the colors... so I'm gonna tone it down... sorry gang!
-
Hey Mica, I just sent you an email confirming that -bassed on the price quote you gave me- I WANT TO WITHDRAW MY REQUEST FOR THE PEGHEAD OMEGA AND THE DUAL BEVEL... AND REQUEST THAT YOU UPGRADE MY ELECTRONICS TO SIGNATURE ELECTRONICS WITH 3-POSITION Q SWITCHES (O/6/9 dbs) WITH (a single pair of) BASS & TREBLE KNOBS. (Pretty much Shim's electronics... but no LEDs.)
This WILL be my LAST change to my order. The ONLY minor remaining issue is whether my Bird Tailpiece will have 3 or 5 screws. I'm not worried about it one way or the other, bassed on our conversation about it... but I'll give you a decision as soon as I get a price.
I'm a little sad to sacrifice the peghead Omega and dual bevel... but it's WELL worth it to add a second filter and 3-position Q to my Europa electonics and to upgrade the bass & treble toggles to variable knobs. The increase in electronics versatility will be TREMENDOUS, and far outway the (only) slightly less cool appearance of the peghead Omega and bevel.
I'll post my requests for the control configuration in the appropriate thread in changes and additions.
Thanks again, Mica! This is going to make my most awesome custom Signature bass even more awesome!!!
-
Oh... your bass will have similar sound to my bass~!!!! You will be happy to get your monster.
And I think... the peghead omega can be looked like a metal bass. So when I ordered, I didn't include that option in my bass.
I think the upgrade of your electronics is more worthy than the appearance.
Anyway, congratulation~!!!
-
Thanks for your thoughts, Shim!
I think the same thing. It's worth giving up the fancy peghead for the upgraded electronics.
I'm getting a lot more than I'm giving up!!!
-
[size=0]FINAL SPECIFICATIONS FOR MARK'S CUSTOM 6-STRING BASS:[/size]
Mark King Signature Deluxe 6-String Bass
Balance K Omega Body
Tummy and Elbow Contours
Crown Peghead, Alembic Symbol & Script, no Mark King signature
Coco Bolo front and back, both Bookmatched to Center, disguised BTC
Continueous Wood Backplate(s) (1 preferred, 2 is okay)
Signature Electronics with 3-position Qs (0/6/9 db) and one pair of Bass & Treble Knobs
Standard pickup for Neck pickup, Fatboy for Bridge pickup
Mahogany Body with thin Maple & Purpleheart pinstrips
Custom Neck: mah/pur/map/pur/ver/eb/ver/pur/map/pur/mah
Standard 34 inch Long Scale -2 inches @ nut & 2&2/3 inches @ 24th fret
Bird Tailpiece -standard 3 screws
Control layout preferences detailed in another thread
-
Hey, Mark!
Congrats on the Electronics upgrade. I think you'll be VERY happy with her. She's gonna be both beautiful AND sound amazing. Looking forward to seeing her continuing progress. Oh, and double congrats, too, on the new crib. Man, it's just a banner time to be KING, isn't it !
BCool, the 'Ho....
-
Thanks, Mike! Yes, it IS indeed good to be KING!
I sure would've liked to have the snazzy peghead Omega and bevel... it looks awesome.
But... while the Europa electronics are a really nice, versatile package... my experience with my custom Europa (and it's individual tone controls for each pickup) has taught me that individual filters and Qs for each pickup dramaticly increase the sonic potential of the instrument.
The thing is, I just expect there to be bass and treble controls on a bass... I just do. If I had to choose between a stock Signature package and a stock Europa package, I'd rather get the Europa package, because even though it only has one filter and Q, it DOES have the bass & treble switches.
But as time went by, I began to think I'd really like to have both, and that maybe I could -if the price was right. And the price they quoted me wasn't too much more than the peghead Omega and bevel.
Now it's a compromise, not as versatile as the setup on my Europa... but it's still an awesome setup that combines the best of both worlds. And it's still a relatively simple setup -which also has it's charm.
Each pickup essentially has just one tone control -the filter- and a 3-position Q switch to modify the sound... 0/6/9 dbs -just like the Series I setup. Simple, yet extremely versatile. The balance control blends the sound/output of the two pickups... and then I have a master bass and a master treble control to quickly and easily adjust these overall frequencies should I desire.
The fact is... this setup should completely rock, and be exceedingly awesome!
Of course, I'm counting on the bass to just sound awesome PERIOD -regardless of electronics. It is, of course, (obviously) an Alembic... and I've heard so many people rave about how awesome Coco Bolo sounds -especially with the Mahogany body- that I'm counting on it to just have an exceedingly awesome killer natural sound -especially with my ultra-cool neck, what with the 5 different woods... the Ebony, Maple, Vermillion, Purpleheart, and Mahogany. I'm banking on this having a mind-blowing rich and complex killer sound from the carefully thought-out combo of 6 killer tone woods.
Wow! I just thought of something to scare the superstitious people! This is the 666 bass!!! 6 strings, 6 woods, and now 6 knobs!
Heh, heh, heh, I love it!
Yeah, I'm pretty excited! It's pretty far along at this point... the Coco Bolo bookmatched pairs have been glued up, the pinstrips are on the body core halves, and I imagine they'll have those glued on any day and be ready to carve the front and back shortly after.
Then the question will be how long it stays in spray... Mica tells me Coco Bolo is unpredictible... it could take just a week or two, or it might be in spray for a month or two -there's just no way to know until they do it.
I'm guessing the electronic are simple enough that there probably won't be much of a wait at that point -so hopefully it won't be too long.
But it doesn't matter, because when it's ready, when it's done, when it comes... it's gonna be a world class mind-blowing, jaw-dropping, drool-inducing bass!!!
-
Dang it Mark you got me thinkin again...
-
Man, I've gotta empty MY drool bucket again, just reading about it!!
BCool, The 'Ho.....
-
Mica, I've been really busy moving but I wanted to let you know I called Beaver yesterday as you instructed but he was at the doctors so I'll try him again today. I think you know what I want so if you need to make a call without me go ahead, it'll be cool. Take care, wish me luck with the move, see ya!
-
Hi Mica! We just completed our move into our new house! Yay! Anyway, I DID speak to Beaver on Friday. (And I posted a post to that effect... but it didn't take for whatever reason -so here's another one.)
I explained we were upgrading the electonics to Signature electronics with 3-position Qs and a single/master set of bass & treble controls for the specified cost.
I offered to pay half or all of the cost of the upgrade -but he said not to worry about it and just pay when the order is ready. And of course he knows he can contact me and certainly you if he has any questions and/or needs to confirm anything.
If convenient, I'd like the chance to have input on the placement of the Coco Bolo laminates -but I have confidence in your judgement; I've already stated my thoughts... you know what I want.
I look forward to seeing pictures of the next stage, and hearing how it's coming when you get a chance. It looks awesome, and I'm really excited!!!
-
Here's the suggestions for placement. First, the front laminate:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/39837.jpg)
Note the horizontal line indicating the end of the fingerboard or "25th fret." The truss rod cover will be just below this, so there's nearly straight grain at the center tansitioning into some really nice swirls. For the back:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/39838.jpg)
the center grain isn't quite as straight, but there's lots of great swirl to transition too, plus there won't be pickups and knobs to obscure it. Hope you like, we're waiting on cutting this until you get a change to see it.
-
Killer wood!
Bill, tgo
-
Mark,
Incredible wood- I'm on my crummy work monitor and it's still unbelievable. Can't wait to get home and look at it on my good monitor.
Toby
-
Oh, WOW!!!
...WOW!!!
Thanks for waiting so I could see it and approve it! All I can say now is that I see and approve it!!! I most DEFINITELY approve it!
Thanks again so much, Mica! Thank you, and Bill, and all the rest of the fine folks at Alembic! Beauty is, of course, in the eye of the beholder... that said, this is -in my eyes- as awesome as any Coco Bolo I've EVER seen!
You've done it AGAIN! I really couldn't hope for anything better than this -it wouldn't even occur to me. You simply couldn't have gotton me anything better... it's exactly what I hoped for... wildly figured and full of swirls and detail -but with straight or mainly straight grain in the middle to disguise the Bookmatch to Center. I can see the front is absolutely perfect in this respect; and it looks like if the back isn't perfectly perfect... it'll be far too close for me to snivel about!
I love the contrast of the figuring... this is all the same board, right, just reversed on each side? Regardless, it looks AWESOME!
This is really going to help heal the hole left by my Elan.
Thanks so much! I don't know what else to say, other than repeating what I've already said.
Please proceed with the cutting at your convenience -with my utmost blessing, appreciation, gratitude... and awe!
Bill & Toby, thanks for the appreciation & positive vibes!!!
-
Wow this looks great Mark!
-
Hey just checking... these'll have enough Coco Bolo to go over the Omega tips, right? It looks pretty close...
(No disrespect intended, I know y'all know what you're doing! Just wanna check! And again, the centers of the BTC on these two board-pairs looks great!)
-
Just wanted to make sure that the Coco Bolo covers the Omega tips... it looks a little close...
(No disrespect intended... I know y'all know what you're doing, but I just wanted to confirm since you're going to cut soon. Again, the centers of the BTC board pairs look great, thanks so much!
-
Very nice indeed! (http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/39862.gif)
-
Beautiful, beautiful cocobolo!
-
Beautiful, beautiful cocobolo!
-
Thanks guys! I'm glad to hear y'all appreciate it too! I think it's incredibly gorgeous and awesome-looking... as good as anything I've ever seen!
I'm so psyched!
-
Hey Mica... if you've got a sec, I'd appreciate a little reassurance here... 'cause I LOVE this Coco Bolo!
Will these boards be big enough to cover the whole top & back -INCLUDING the Omega tips?
It looks pretty close. I can see there's a little additional wood at the top of the front board... and even more at the top of the back board.
I'm just a little concerned -probably over nothing. Probably due to ignorance on my part. But, at your convenience, please humor me and confirm that there is no problem with these boards covering the entire front and back of my bass -INCLUDING THE OMEGA TIPS.
This wood looks so awesome... I already TOTALLY in love with it, and I'd hate to have to go with other wood! I'm already fantasizing about how great it'll look when it has the finish, and then when I'm actually holding and playing it... so please confirm that it's safe for me to continue fantasizing!!!
Thanks, Mark.
Have a great weekend!
-
The wood will cover front and back from the tips of the horns to the tips of the omega. You are looking at a slightly oversized outline. You can probably tell that the horns look a little chunkier than the finished shape. Even an exact outline drawing like we do for a case interior look larger than the finished piece. This is due to the way most people look at guitars. You concentrate on the flat part, and tend to minimize the size of the rounded edge.
The Coco Bolo does not extend to edge of the body since there is a rounded edge. More like 3/4 inch in from the perimeter. Check out Bradley's 6-string for an idea of the finished look.
Hope you're feeling better with the assurances and explanation.
-
Thanks Mica, I figured it was nothing to worry about... but now I know for sure!
Thanks for taking the time to explain and assure... 'cause now I DO feel better!
Even though it's nowhere near as fancy and elaborate as 8 Strings of Power, I'm almost as excited... and it looks like it'll DEFINITELY be as beautiful!!! And I'm confident it'll be equally awesome sounding -in it's own way!
I'm still hoping you and your dad will figure out a remote fix/diagnosis for the Europa... but I'm planning/assuming that it'll require a trip to the mothership... which wouldn't be such a bad thing. My other half is already gung-ho for the trip! It would be nice to see you again, and the rest of the family... maybe even the next generation.
Thanks again, hope all is well with your family.
Take care, Mark.
-
Fingerboard getting glued to the neck:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/40791.jpg)
Now there will be something to fit the bookmatch to centers to.
-
Thanks for the update! I look forward to seeing the body glued on... and then the BTCs being installed!
-
Hi mom!
If you get the chance, I'd sure love to get an update and/or picture of the project... something for the weekend. Even a brief description of the status would be great.
If not, don't fret, I know it'll be awesome.
Tom Z and I might come up together for our instruments, depending on the timing.
Also, reminder... the issue with my electronics on my 8-string, reserving your Dads time to examine/diagnose/fix the problem, etc... the premise again is that if we can't do a remote fix, I'll DEFINITELY come up to pick up the 6-string (when it's ready) and bring the 8-string to be fixed at the same time... and I'd only be able to hang a day or two or three at most (so I'd need it to be fixed within a 1-3 day period... that would be the premise of coming up... to stone two birds with one joint).
Another related reminder... if/when I come up to pick up the 6-string and have the 8-string repaired, it would of course be important/ESSENTIAL to make sure any (potentially) needed parts are already on-hand... I've already given you the serial numbers for the electronics -again, I think the balance/pan control MAY be some sort of special part (which might NOT be a stock part for Alembic). So, just to be prudent, I'm posting this reminder/request well in advance of the actual visit.
Again, if you need the info again, or any addition info and/or anything else to be able to facillitate the repair if/when I come up, please let me know as soon as needed so I can do whatever is needed.
Thanks again for everything, the 6-string looks to be every bit as awesome as the 8, and I can't wait for the next set of pictures!!!
And congratulations in advance for... well, you know!
-
Hi Mica!
I'm seriously jone-zeen for an update on my replacement bass... so if you get a chance to throw me a bone for the weekend, I'd appreciate it. But again, don't worry if you're too busy... I know you've got a lot on your plate.
Take care, Mark.
-
I saw the peghead cut and drilled. Since Bob is off until the 5th, I probably won't have much more to report until after he's back and getting the BTC glueups in place.
-
Thanks, Mica!
-
Oh, duh, by the way, I caught an error a while back on a previous post where I thanked you and BILL and the other fine folks at Alembic for the awesome Coco Bolo board you selected for me...
SORRY... I meant to thank BOB... no offense, Bob! My apologies... I mixed your name up with ibpesq/bills name... it was on my mind as I was thanking him for the positive vibes/comment he made about the wood earlier.
So once, again, my apologies, BOB, and thanks for the wonderful board you selected for me, which will give me great pleasure for decades to come! (Unless the Yellowstone Supervolcano erupts and/or an astroid hits the Earth and ends our existence prematurely -as the Mayan calander supposedly predicts will happen in 2012!!!)
(And even in that case, I'll have 4 or 5 good years with it!!!)
-
Ha! Hey King!
Ah yes, the Mayans. Either December 21st or 22nd I understand, depending on how you count. Pity it's so close to Christmas but I'm glad we get to have one last fall. Autumn is so pretty in Ohio and winter's such a drag. What say we all get together and build a big bomb shelter and stock it with enough food and sound equipment for all the Alembic players in the world? Heck we could even move the mothership entirely underground! We could have a zoo to hold some of the more useful animals - lambs, goats, cows, horses, dogs, drummers. :-)
Well, about five years to go everyone! Play hard!
:-)
Regards,
Jim
-
Just thought of something. An alternative (or plan B) would be to have Ron build us a giant sound system that covers the entire state of Utah (the State of Sound?), facing straight up. Then we could all plug into it and play a low E at the same time, perhaps using the rhythms of an an ancient Mayan tune if anyone knows one. The intense low-frequency sound waves (with all their attending harmonics dutifully replicated by the fruit of Ron's labor and the fact that we will all have our filters wide open) will gently nudge said asteroid off it's evil trajectory and into a more benign one. We may not avoid an impact, but we might avoid cataclysm and in any event we'd all have a grand time!
Hey - it's an idea...
-
Mark:
Go ahead and thank me, no problemo, though I spell it Lbpesq, not Ibpesq! Believe me, I've been called far worse things than one of the fine folks at Alembic. And I still love your wood - looking forward to seeing it in a more finished state. As for the Utah State of Sound, watch out for the infamous brown note. lol
Bill, tgo
-
Sorry the lighting wasn't very good, but you can see your bass in the finish department, with one coat of sealer, sanded and ready for the next coat:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/43066.jpg)
-
That is going to be an awesome bass when it's done-I love how the grain of the cocobolo follows the curves of the body.
Can't wait to see it with more finish!
-
Thanks Bizzymom!
It looks extremely awesome!
I'm very sick and feel absolutely horrible today.
This is a big moral boost, seeing it at this point.
-
P.S. Thanks for your positive comments as well, Chris!
-
Lookin good Mark. Get well soon.
-
Thanks, Dave.
-
Mark,
I guess they pretty much nailed the disguised BTC didn't they? Looks KILLER!!!
Hope you're feeling better and that the homeowner experience is treating you well.
-
Wow. Love the grain and the omega! Great looking bass Mark!
-
Thanks, guys!
Yeah, its looking pretty awesome, and I'm feeling a lot better today... still a little down, but much better than yesterday. I should be able to go in to work today. Yesterday I couldn't walk for more than a few minutes at a time... felt like everything was spinning.
It looks like I won't have too much longer to wait, and I'm REALLY looking forward to getting this (of course)!
I never played a Balance K, nor a Coco Bolo bass (other than an unplugged one for a few seconds); I've got high hopes/expectations for both.
This bass, Elana is a replacement for my stolen Elan; it was designed to (A) replace that bass; (B) blow away that bass -in sound and versatility; and, (C) have a distinctly different sound than my exceedingly awesome 8-String Europa.
I'm totally sold on the looks of the Balance K, and I've read enough raving testimonials here to be convinced that it may well be the most comfortable and ergonomic Alembic; and a lighter bass is also an attractive concept -my Europa sure ISN'T light!
I'm dying to hear what it sounds like! I know there are a lot of people who are gung-ho on Coco Bolo for having a great sound, and it's definitely one of my very favorite woods for looks. And the fact that Alembic holds the Coco Bolo/Mahogany sandwich is such regard that they call it their house recipe is meaningful.
So I spec'ed this with Coco Bolo on both the front and back, and spec'ed it BTC on both -to maximize the Coco Bolo sound.
And then I tweaked the neck, upgrading one of the Purpleheart lams to Ebony, and swapping two of the Maple lams for Vermillion, and two others for Mahogany. Mica and Valentino both agreed that this would produce a great sounding bass with a very noticably different sound from my Europa.
My Europas' sound is dominated by the 6 Ebony laminates in the neck -and then by the Maple lams and Maple body... an Ebony/Maple sound. The Ebony is so dominant it subsumes the Purpleheart sound; I can't hear the Purpleheart.
I'm told this bass should have a richer and more complex sound, though not a boomy and thundrous as my Europa. I'm sure looking forward to finding out.
Shouldn't be long, now! I hope I enjoy the sound of Coco Bolo as much as everyone else does. One thing's already clear... this bass is a formidable contender in the looks department!
Take care, gang!
P.S. Jim, again, I LOVE your Anniversery Electronics enhanced Balance K, it looks incredibly awesome!
-
What an amazing process to watch. Best of luck with the bass Mark! It is beautiful!
Glad you're feeling better!
-
Hi Mark,
Glad you are feeling better. Whatcha got, a flu bug?
I have got to tell you from the heart, that is the best piece of Coco Bolo I have seen yet! I didn't think from looking at the pictures above that it was going to come out looking like that but man, all of the curves and knots are the in right places. These guys are amazing when you just let go and put the trust in them. Which by the way, I need to be doing alot more of.
I'm not much for suggesting remedies but one thing that does make me feel better is just boiling some good ole fresh ginger and drinking it with a little honey and lemon. That's probably the only two cents I have and not even worth much.
Anyway, good luck cuz, God Speed!
Paul
-
It looks great Mark!
Glad you're feeling better!
-
Hey thanks guys, I appreciate it!
I'm feeling crappy still... and I've been going back and forth all day... but overall it's WAY better than yesterday -when I couldn't stand up for more than a few minutes at a time.
Hey Paul, thanks for the advice! I actually happen to be fortunate enough to know (thanks to of my other half) about the wonders of ginger, honey and lemon. But it's great advice -which I also would share with others when the occaision arises.
I dunno what it is... seems like either food poisoning or summer flu -which is kind of comical to try to conceptualize, considering where I live, and the temperatures here right now.
Yeah, I'm extremely pleased with the Coco Bolo they selected for me. I'd have to say it's perfect -for what I wanted- or so close there's no point being dissatisfied and asking for something better.
They nailed it with their first attempt... and what a great piece. I was resolved not to be too picky... as long as it was adequate for my needs, I wasn't going to ask for another selection; so I would've accepted something less awesome.
But that certainly wasn't an issue! This board rocks. I love the figuring on both sides! The front looks awesome, with the lineyness in the center, and the figuring going out to match the curves of the body...! Exceptionally cool, as awesome looking as any Coco Bolo I've ever seen. The figuring on the back is different, Yin to the Yang of the front, with more swirls in the middle of the body. Interestingly, the front and back come from the same board, but (for those who may not have caught this on early posts on the subject) they are from the same board... but have the opposite (relative to each other) ends glued together for the BTC.
This is pretty cool. It pleases me that the front and back are from the same board; and it provides both contrast and (yet) unity.
Blah, Blah, Blah... yeah, I'm psyched!
Thanks again for the support and positive thoughts, guys!
-
Incredible grain patterns Mark. You're a lucky guy. Glad you're feeling better too.
graeme
-
Thanks, Graeme! I agree, pretty incredible grain!
-
Wow, this is really just absolutely stunning!!! It's the Pinoccio effect... every time I look at it, it seems to get more awesome looking.
It looks incredible now; but I know full well it'll look even more awesome when the finish is done.
Of course, I'd love to see a shot or two of the back and neck... but NOT until after you get caught up with other FTC threads and things in general. This picture'll hold me for a while. And thanks again.
Wow, the pickup routing sure is wide! I guess my dimensions were slightly too wide for a 5-string pickup to work.
Uhm... this is a hollowbody, right? (Not that I'd suggest doing anything if it were overlooked at this point.) I can see just a widdle thwip of hollowness next to the neck... although I recall the pictures in the Archive through May 11 show at least one half of the body core being hollowed out in part. I'm just wondering, 'cause the pickups go out so far, and I don't see indication of hollowness -other than the one little strip. Just hidden away -probably/hopefully.
Anyway, it looks great! I'm also really pleased with the overall shape. Of course, beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but, that said, I find this shape -the Balance K- looks most attractive (to me) in the 5-string variety; the 4s I've seen look a little too slim for my tastes, and the only other 6 I recall seeing was too wide.
I meant to ask for a 5 string body... it was an important detail... and I think I spaced and totally neglected to mention it! But the body you gave it looks absolutely perfect, just what I had in mind! Thanks so much!
Oh yeah, are there two different Balance K sizes, regular and 3/4 size? Or all all Balance Ks considered 3/4 size?
-
This has got the normal 5-string pickups on it. The 5-string and 6-string pickups are the same. It's only on very narrow 5-strings that we can use the 4-string pickups (like on flaxman's).
The body is hollow, but most of that is out near the edge. Around the neck, we've got lots of business to take care of. There has to be a place for the pickups to mount, and to actually glue the body to the neck.
Unlike many of our models, there's only one Balance K for 4-, 5-, and 6-string basses at this time. The 3/4 body is a different shape entirely.
Glad you like how it's turning out.
-
Thanks Mica!
-
Beautiful bass, Mark. About a year ago I played a Blue Buckeye Balance K King Deluxe at Planet Bass here in the Twin Cities. Unquestionably the most comfortable bass I have ever played. Ergonomically perfect for 6'1 me.
-
Thanks for the word, Paul, good to hear another testimonial on the Balance K. While I was sold on the shape/ergonomics, I considered the Elan, Europa, Rogue, and even Scorpion shapes as well. I'm glad I made the choice I made.
It continues to look more awesome each time I look at it. I'm REALLY curious about how it'll look with the finish finished... specifically, the color. It looks to be more the orangy Coco Bolo color... as opposed to the red variety; but I can't be sure until it's done.
I prefer a lighter color just 'cause I know it'll get darker anyway as the wood ages.
I can't wait to see the rest of it... the back and the neck... but I won't ask for more pictures for a while, 'cause I know Mica's getting caught up, and there are other folks who've waited a while and still don't have any new pictures yet. Besides, hopefully it'll just plain be done soon!
-
The top on this bass is going to be awesome Mark. I love the way the grain follows the body curves.
I think the Balance K is the best looking body Alembic offers (IMHO). I only order the 3/4 for mine because the weight issue.
Olie
-
Interesting. So... you're saying your 3/4 body is actually lighter than the Balance K? It looks heavier to my eye -at least in the pictures. Maybe it's a proportion thing.
So the 3/4 body is lighter than the Balance K? Or were you saying the opposite... that you prefer the greater weight? I know some people prefer instruments with more mass... for increased sustain.
At any rate, thanks for the positive comment; I'm just thrilled with how it looks. And of course, your Series in progress looks absolutely bitchin! The neck is awesome, and the Coco looks great too!
-
I already have a 3/4 and a Balance K and the 3/4 is much lighter. Then again my Balance k is a 5 and the 3/4 is a 4.
I also don't have real long arms and the 3/4 puts the end of the neck closer to my body.
I can't wait to see yours with a shine on it. I bet the grain really comes on then.
Olie
-
Hey, Mark!!
Wazzup? Yer Bass is gonna B AWESOME!! I've been keepin' a low profile, but I HAVE been keepin' an eye on things ;)! Can't wait to see yer little Monster finished. Jim's turned out GREAT! I missed his first gig with it, but I hope to catch one soon. Yer neck, Coco, everything is spot on cool. Looking forward to more!
BCOOOOOOL, keep me posted, Mike (the 'Ho)...
-
gee i am famous?
or is that infamous.....lol
bal k's just hang on your neck and tell you how special it is..i love my wolf and despite whatever it weighs it doesnt feel like a ton./..
if i wasnt expanding the alembic line(lol) with my tribute bass i could easily have gotten another
you;ll be very pleased
(Message edited by flaxattack on August 22, 2007)
-
Here's some shiny spray pics:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/43546.jpg)
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/43547.jpg)
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/43548.jpg)
-
Wow.
-
Yours is lookin great too 8SK!
-
WOW, thanks a lot for these latest photos, what a treat!!!
I've been dying to see the back and the neck, but not wanting to ask -with all the things you have to do, and all the other folks here... so I didn't expect these; what a wonderful treat! And finding out that it's in the drill stage... it's just overwhelming!
It looks absolutely stunning!!! The disguised BTC looks great on the back as well, and I love the look of the tummy contour and the pinstripes stopping at the neck -which also looks awesome!!!
Every aspect of it looks awesome, as good as I could've hoped for! I can't wait to see it with the continueous wood backplate on!!! I know it won't be much longer now. Thanks again to everyone at Alembic for all the love and care you've put into my replacement bass Elana!
-
lovely shade of red mark
great layouts by bob again...
love the squigglies by the bridge pu and the taper running up the spine on the back
-
looking really sweet Mark. love the neck laminates.
graeme
-
Beautiful bass, Mark! Love the swirly coco!
- Jim
-
Great neck! It really darkened up nicely. This thing is going to sound like a freight train!
-
Thanks for the nice comments, everyone!
Yep, it's shaping up to be a unique and exceptional beauty... just like I want!
I'm looking forward to joining the Omega Club, Coco Bolo Club, and Balance K Clum -all in one fell swoop!
Thanks again, all. Mark!
-
WOO HOO!!! I just got the word today!!! When I got home, there was a message on my machine from Bass Central, a courtesy call advising me that my bass should be finished and ready to ship around the 10th!!!
I can only assume Alembic contacted them with this info, and expects to have it completed by or around that time!!!
Obviously, this is extremely exciting, and I'm extremely psyched at the thought that this stunning beauty should be in my hands in only/just about two (more) weeks!!!
I want to thank all the club members here who shared their thoughts and opinions with me -especially in the very beginning stages of the project, when I was seeking advice about exactly what to get. I'm very pleased I decided to get Coco Bolo on both the front and back, and to have it bookmatched to center on each; and I appreciated the input on that, and on all the other aspects of the instrument -especially (also) getting the Balance K body with the Omega.
Just another two weeks or so... that's not much longer to wait!!!
Boy, it sure looks like it's going to be an absolute knockout!!! And the pictures never do 'em justice... I can't wait to hear how it sounds... I know it'll sound as great (or ever better -to the extent that's possible) as it looks... but still, I can't wait to hear the famous Coco Bolo sound -which I should get to the max, since I've got it BTCered on both the front and the back.
Thanks again, all, for your interest, support, and feedback... and thanks again to the wonderful staff at Alembic for making these wonderful instruments possible... for transforming our ideas into reality, and doing it so perfectly and lovingly!!!
It's been an absolute pleasure, and I apologize for any time(s) when I've been a pain in the butt! I tried real hard to behave myself this time, and be nothing but patient and supportive. I thank you for bearing with me through the occaissional changes/additions.
You folks are the best, thanks again!
-
Hey Mark,
Congradulations on your beautiful instrument and the proposed arrival. I can imagine how stoked you are. Isn't all of this a magical process? In fact I am starting to think I may have a little PTSD when mine finally arrives as lately I have been running on adrenaline from this website, mostly from anticipation.
And if there is anything I would like to apologize to you to for sometimes being controversial-probably just out of insecurity at times but most of all I'd like to apologize to all for is my spelling. The way I look at spelling in an arena like this though is that as long as it works phonically then you all probably get the point! haha!!!!
Anyway the main point to write you is because you just brought something to my attention that I had missed. Regarding your BTC's it just dawned on me that by BTC'ing you are actually overlapping the body woods with the neck and therefore making more contact between these woods, locking the body tighter into the neck, thus picking up alot more vibration or frequency's. This to me is a huge plus in the utilization of all potentialities. I can just now imagine how much more this adds to the overall tone possibilities of your bass.
I have been torn during this whole construction phase about going BTC or Top to Center wood. Originally I had drawn in my blueprint of my neck which I sent to Alembic to bring my top wood to center from the bottom of the bridge pick-up down to my heart omega thus covering my neck wood and from the top of that pick-up to the neck have the neck woods showing between the pick-ups and around the nut . This proposal was denied me by Valentino I believe saying that it couldn't be done. I know in my own heart that it could be done and in fact I think the Alembic artist's probably weren't asked if they could do it. I was really just trying to bring another little design feature to the front look of the instruments and also having some effect on the sound. I think it would look really sharp as well.
Anyway, congradulations on your design. Your baby is coming out stunning. Keep up the good work and enjoy the ride. You deserve it!
Also thanks for the nice words on my post. Keep an eye out on my bass and lets see if I'm going to get any of that sapwood showing for a little highlight.
Take care Mark, Paul
-
Hey, thanks again for your additional thoughts, Paul, and I respect what you said about the insecurity thing and all. It takes a big man to say it. But it makes you a better man. Who among us hasn't been moved to do/say/respond to something out of fear or insecurity in a way he/she would've preferred not to? Few if any.
I tend to think we almost certainly all have; and the only issue is whether we acknowledge it. If and when we do, then we can put it behind us, and we're better for it.
I feel for you that you didn't get that unique design feature you wanted. But your bass will look and sound absolutely awesome. And that feature probably would've cost a lot extra.
Yeah, I kicked out the extra bucks for the BTC on both the front and rear 'cause I really wanted to make sure I got the absolute maximum Coco Bolo sound... and having it completely surround the neck... having the wood join together across the top and back... should definitely achieve that objective. Plus... I just love the way it looks!!!
Hey, don't worry about spelling... it's the least of our worries!!!
I'll be keeping my eye out on your FTC thread, awaiting the next developments!!!
Mark
-
Thanks again Mark. Everything you just said is all good. I admire your intellectual approach to your ordering. You have taught me alot during this ordering process as you are well thought out in your decisions. Taking a firm stance once you have made up your mind.
Most of all you are covering all the bases from design to delivery. Because of one of your threads I had a lengthy conversation with my friend Tim and my UPS delivery person. You have brought up many topics for me to consider in my order that I otherwise would have definately overlooked. Believe me- I am not in the least bit over exagerating this to come across mushy. You have opened up many avenues for me to consider in my design which has contributed greatly to the outcome of this beaut. And I would have to say that if my Bass made it as a featured custom I wouldn't hesitate to give credit where credit was due.
My next focus will be on shipping so let us know how your experience takes place and good luck!
I'm going with the new double layer packaging that Alembic says they offer so that is the next topic for my additions thread.
Must go to sleep now, something is wrong with the way my keyboard is working.
Aloha for now, goodnight. Paul
-
Hey, thanks Paul, that's nice of you to say. I'm glad my thoughts have been helpful to you. That is certainly my only objective in saying them. You, of course, will ultimately be the one with your custom dream bass, and I'd like you to be as happy with it as you can be... same for everyone else, and same for me.
This site has been a wealth of information for me. I've learned a LOT of stuff from the many people here, and this site is just a fabulous resource. Sometimes other people ask questions or have issues for which I think I do or may have valuable thoughts to contribute. Oftentimes people ask questions for which I have no answers and have nothing to contribute, and I sit back while others endeavor to assist.
I'm grateful for the knowledge, experience, and feedback of the many club members here; they have been very helpful and instrumental (double entendre) in helping me design my new custom bass. It pleases me to be able to help others, as others have helped me.
Sleep well, and I hope the issue with the keyboard is minor (and diminished!).
-
Well, the countdown has begun!!! Bass Central estimated my custom 6-string should be done by September 10th!!! Of course, who knows, it could always take longer, but I'm figuring they got the figure from Alembic, and it should be pretty close!!! So, that's a week away... and then probably another 2 days to ship. Pretty freaking exciting.
I know it'll be awesome... it'll look great and sound great... but wow, I just can't wait to see and hear it in person, and to compare and contrast it to my awesome 8-string.
I've gotton pretty adept at the 8-string, and can play it as well or better than most folks play a 6-string; but still, it's big, heavy, and takes a lot of reach to get to the first fret with the extra long scale.
I'm working on the Prelude of J.S. Bachs' first solo cello suite (playing it an octave below written pitch) and boy, some of the repeated lower parts are a bit a a workout! I'm figuring that it'll be much easier to play on the Balance K with the shorter scale and the smaller neck and lighter body.
I'm figuring it'll be like going from the bulky Enterprise D to the Enterprise E... or maybe Voyager!
Anyway, I'm REALLY looking forward to seeing it, playing it, and hearing just how great the legendary sound of Coco Bolo is, and experiencing the rapidly-becoming famous ergonomic comfort of the Balance K!!!
They're just the most fabulous looking Alembics!
-
Take some deep breaths mark. It won't be long now.
graeme
-
Another day closer... the excitement mounts!!!
-
Hi Mark,
I just thought I would share some of your excitement with you in a little discussion as I am also on the verge of a little action this week myself. I don't know if you saw but my body got glued up last week so maybe by the end of this week I might see the shape of the bass take place. Of course I go by the old saying that Expectations are Premeditated Resentments so I am not expecting anything as I know the crew has their hands completely full. When they get something done on my bass I figure is when they have time to work on it. Anyway, I like their great little surprises!
So I just thought I would ask though you may have discussed this before I don't read all of the posts, what amps do you prefer to play you instruments thru and do you have an SF-2?
Also, do you use any kind of effects boxes or systems?
Another thing I wanted to share with you regarding my discussion with my UPS driver/friend last week is that he mentioned (which you probably know this) is to aviod ground trucking at any cost as much as possible.
I don't know exactly how it works but hopefully you are closest to the major airports that they ship out of as the least amount of riding in the huge container trucks the better. He described that riding in those large trucks give them the best chance of getting buryied
-
Only got a second here, my woman is demanding my attention, but I wanted to put on record I've paid the balance of my Balance K off in full.
I got an email acknowledging this from Susan, so I assume everyone knows it's paid off. Also it goes on my insurance this Friday.
Please call me prior to shipping. At this point, it's 98% likely I'll have it shipped... but WHERE will depend on WHEN it's ready. I'll probably call you from my cell during the day on one of the next 3 days to see where it's at -unless you post any info here updating me before then.
Paul, I'm getting the Silver logo that comes standard with the Signature basses, wherever they normally put it on the peghead according to their discretion.
-
Okay, I'm back. To answer your other questions, Paul, I don't use any effects; all I have is an old Peavey TNT 130 amp. Getting a better amp will be my next musical expenditure... but it'll likely be a while. I've always elected to spend the $ on the instruments, but I am overdue to get an equally awesome amp to make the most of them. I was looking into getting a Big Ben a while back -based on feedback from club members- but simply haven't had the money with the new house and all.
I would, of course, like to get a Superfilter and one of the Alembic tube preamps, at some point. That will come after I get an upgraded amp.
I appreciate your thoughts about shipping, and Mica has said the same thing -that 2cnd day air is the way to go, with (statistically) the least problems, while, conversely, overnight and ground tend to have the worst amount of problems.
Yeah, it looks awesome, and I'm sure it'll even more beautiful when fully finished. Something I'm slightly worried about is the tummy contour doesn't look as pronounced and deeply carved the way I was expecting like other Balance Ks -like Thunder and Lightning, Rio, and the Dire Wolf; but I'm guessing it's just something I can't see in the picture. I can see that there IS a tummy curve... the picture must just not show it very well. Yeah, I'm pretty excited, and I hope it's ready by the 10th, but if not, it's cool, 'cause it won't be much longer. All that's really important is getting it safely here, and it'll be covered by my insurance as of this Friday.
And I certainly did see the latest on your bass and it looks PFA (pretty freaking awesome)! It's going to be a VERY formidiable contender!
I'll look forward to your next pictures. I'd like to see more pictures of my bass, but since it's so close, they might not bother since I'll know what it looks like soon enough!
-
Hey Mark,
Well, Peavey's are nice amps to begin with. And you are smart as the instrument and the house are much better investments in that order of pleasure and monetary value so sounds smart to me!.
I see what you mean about the tummy contour. The way it's shaved or tapered they didn't go to far into the accent laminates. I don't know if that is good news or bad news. Being that it is on the back that doesn't matter to much and it is hard to tell how deep it is. It is hard to tell if there is a tummy accent from that picture. I don't know what to say unless I could see a better view which I am sure that is what you want.
Let us know when you find out more. It doesn't really look bad at all but that is very observant of you.
Take care, and thanks for the compliments. I am curious to see if any of the sapwood is going to show which will be great with me if it comes out right.
Paul
-
Mark.
2 things.. Firstly, your accent laminates are pretty narrow so you won't see the maple widen as much on the tummy contouring. If you compare it with mine, the contouring looks more pronounced due to the wider maple laminate. However, there looks to be more mahogany showing on yours so I don't think you've anything to worry about.(i.e. the distance from the edge of the bass to the coco bolo looks the same)
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/43732.jpg)
The second thing relates to the logo. My sig deluxe came with a bronxe logo so if you're expecting silver, you'd best confirm with Mica.
Graeme
(Message edited by jacko on September 05, 2007)
-
Hey, thanks for the feedback, Graeme. I'm not worried about the looks -I definetly understand your point about the thinner accent lams- only that it actually has the full contour, for comfort and function. I'm sure it's just the picture, but I'll ask 'er about it next time I talk to her. I wouldn't ask 'em to redo it at this point, in any event.
Thanks for the heads up on the logo. The quote generator spec's silver logo and script as standard on the MK deluxe, so I assumed it would be what I was getting; and it would be my preference. But it's no biggie either way.
Mica, if you read this, I'd PREFER the silver logo and script, but if that's an error in the quote generator, and/or if you've already stuck a bronze one on, then don't worry about it. I don't want Alembic to incur any unnecessary/additional costs and/or headaches with this bass. I'll be thrilled with it regardless of the very minor detail of the specific metal of the script and logo.
Thanks all, nice of you keeping me company during the countdown, Graeme!
If all goes well, and it's actually finished by next Monday, then I should receive it a week from today or tomorrow! And if it's not finished by then, I'm guessing it probably wouldn't be any later than a week after that!
Another day closer!!!
-
Thanks Mark,
I was actually going to ask you for that info in the near future here as I saw you mention it in your thread so you beat me to it!
I am going to check with my business carrier and then I will call your guy and see what kind of prices and coverage I can get.
Very nice of you, thanks again, Paul
-
Glad to help, Paul. I actually heard about Heritage from other club members here. For a gruesome and heartwrenching story of something you'd never want to experience with your bass, see this thread: http://club.alembic.com/Images/393/23959.html (http://club.alembic.com/index.php?topic=3936)
When club member Steve had his Series II decapitated horrifically, Heritage stepped up and got him a new one, salvaging the electronics and usable parts, and paying for the rest. This told me exactly what kind of a company they are... the kind I want to have covering my back in the case of unexpected tradgedy.
-
Woo Hoo! The countdown continues!!! If all goes well, I'll be playing this awesome bass a week from right now!!!
Mica, Mary probably told you I called yesterday, but apparently y'all were getting slammed, so I'll try back today or tommorow to see if where we're at, and to get your estimate of the finish time.
Depending on when it's done, and other variables, I may either have it shipped to my work, my home, or my good friends comic shop -he's as trustworthy as they come, and he's always there during delivery time.
Woo hoo, thanks again for everything, it looks awesome, and I'm REALLY psyched!!!
-
We're still thinking the ship date will be the week of September 10th. If you want the wooden shipping crate, it might take a week longer since I don't stock these as they take up a good deal of room.
Until the day the bass is packed and ready for the carrier, there's no point in deciding where you want it to arrive since you're working with so many variables. Probably the best thing is for you to decide if you want the wooden shipping crate, and then we'll call you when it's all packed up and you can then tell us where it should arrive. Sound like a good plan?
-
MUST SEE THE BASS! MUST SEE THE BASS! ! !
-
Hi Mica, nice to hear from you! (As you probably know) I tried to get a hold of you a couple times again today, but you were occupied with other calls again, and I wasn't available for you to return the call at work (Mary offered)!
Mary DID tell me my bass is in setup, and I'm thrilled no end!!! And it's great hearing you think it'll probably ship next week! Bassed on past conversations -PLEASE CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG- I'm assuming the shipping I paid Beaver for is the 2cnd day delivery you generally recommend. And I seem to recall you prefer to ship on Monday or Tuesday -Wednesday at the latest- to avoid staying in the warehouse over the weekend.
So hopefully it'll ship out on either Monday or Tuesday, and I'll get it two days later. At this point, it's most likely I'll either take the day off and get it at home, or have you ship it to my extremely reliable and trustworthy friend Jim at his store -he's always there during normal UPS delivery times, and he's already aware of the situation and happy to sign for it and keep it in a secure place til I pick it up (which would be as soon as I get the call). There are complications getting it shipped to work... drama and silliness. I can do it if necessary, but would probably prefer to avoid it (I'll spare you the reasons).
I'M PRETTY SURE I WON'T GET THE CRATE. I'll probably either get the standard case, or the most basic road/flight/travel case. HOW MUCH MORE DOES IT WEIGH, AND HOW MUCH BIGGER IS IT? The reason I ask is because I keep my instruments -in their cases- in a safe, and I'm wondering if the road case would fit. I wouldn't want to have to take the bass out of the road case and put it in the safe without a case. My 8-string has no problem fitting (in the case).
Since you posted info on the bass, I may or may not call you tomorrow. If possible, PLEASE UPDATE ME on the status of the bass tommorow or over the weekend... how likely is it to be ready to ship on either Monday or Tuesday? I'll call you up first thing on the day it's ready to ship, and give you a decision on what to do.
Thanks again for all your help, patience and support, you folks have been wonderful! I appreciate all your efforts, and I'm grateful for this opportunity to get another wonderful Alembic, and to have it be pleasant for all concerned. Special thanks again for the wood selections... the Coco Bolo looks stunning, mesmerizing... I'll always appreciate it and be grateful to Alembic... to you and Bob... for getting me a board that's as close to perfect -for my specific idosyncratic preferences- as I could've rationally hoped for!!!
Jim, thanks for you're enthusiasm and support! I really think you've scored one of the most awesome looking Quilted Maple Alembics ever... and I think I've similarily scored one of the most awesome looking Coco Bolo Alembics ever!!!
-
The countdown continues!!! More excitement! More thrills!!! The bass is in setup!!! Mica sez she still thinks it'll ship next week!!!
WOO HOO!!!
And... as of today, the bass is officially insured through Heritage!!!
-
A road case is a custom ordered item. I've never kept track of their weights or sizes, they are what they are depending on the bass or guitar they protect. Sorry I don't have better data on this for you. You will wait 2-4 weeks for any road case to be constructed.
Where you live, UPS delivers guaranteed 2 days by ground service. Even if you pay for 2nd day air service, the package will likely be delivered via ground transportation. So upgrading the service to air isn't needed based on the delivery location. It's more the number of days in transit that we care about.
I can't really tell you how likely a ship date will be more than we already have. We're hoping for early next week, and nothing so far has changed that estimate. I'll let you know if there is a change to that. I'll also let you know when the bass is packed up and ready to ship so you can tell me the destination address.
Getting very close!
-
Thanks for the update, Mica. I actually DID NOT see the above post when I spoke to you earlier today. Sorry, I can't hear too well on my cellphone sometimes, so I lost a little of what you said... I thought you were referring to another post.
Anyway it's great it's getting close. Hmph. I thought Jason said you had some road cases in stock, but apparently I misunderstood him. I don't feel like waiting additional weeks... plus money is REALLY TIGHT... so I guess I'll just go for the standard case, and ask you to please PACK DAT LIL' PUPPY UP JUST AS SAFE AS YOU POSSIBLY CAN with the standard packaging. Hopefully, my bass won't be one of the ones that gets f@*!#d up by the boneheads at UPS... but if it is... it's now covered by Heritage.
I know this... if the peghead gets broken off or the neck is snapped, I'll want to salvage the Coco Bolo on the front and back... 'cause it looks exceptionally awesome!!!
Hey... I doubt you offer color choices for the case interior... but just in case, all things being equal, my preference is for blue, black, or purple... in that order.
So... pack it up nice 'n safe, and ring me when it's ready to ship... and I'll promptly call back and give you a shipping location... probably to my friends store or to my house.
I guess that covers everything except the final shipping decision... so I'll talk to you when the time/call comes! Looking forward to it, and thanks again for everything!
Oh yeah, hey, one more thing... there are two additional items I want to receive with the bass: (1) a spare set of strings; and (2) an EXTRA LARGE claret red Alembic shirt -should go great with the Coco Bolo. Go ahead and pack 'em in the case with the bass. I ALWAYS have my credit card with me, and I'll whip it out when you contact me for the shipping info!!!
-
Okay, getting pretty close here!!! It's Sunday night... and tomorrow could be the day... the day the bass is in the box (and then ready for shipping)!!!
It's been a great weekend -cause I've finally been off for two days in a row... and it's been extra enjoyable because of the wait. That may seem paradoxical; but the wait makes time go slower, and since I was off, it made my weekend last longer!!!
But now... the new week is about to begin, and it's a great thrill thinking I'll probably get it this week, and the long wait will be over.
I'm really looking forward to it. It looks fantabulawesome in the pictures... but they don't do justice to the in person beauty of these instruments!
Just a few more days...
-
Woo Hoo!!! The countdown continues!!! Will today be the day my trebling fingers get the call on my vibrate only cellphone, and open it up to see Alembics' number calling me to tell me my bass is in the box and ready to ship? I guess we'll see! Won't be long now. (I got that Beatles song stuck in my head now!!!)
-
While the bass is rubbed out and ready for setup, it's not likely the bass will be ready to ship before the end of the week, so that's probably a September 17th ship date. I'll keep you updated as things progress.
-
Nooooooo!!!! Say it's not sooooooo!
(Regaining composure)
Well, thanks for the heads up. I'll prepare myself for the horror of not getting it this week after all.
The horror... the horror...
-
An-Tic-I-Pay-ya-shun is makin' you wait!!
Hang in there, Mark! Good things happen to those who wait! Patience is a virtue and all that stuff! I know that doesn't make it any easier, but it wuz worth a try!! Another coupla daze for a LIFETIME of enjoyment!!
Good Luck! Mike (the 'Ho)......
-
If I had patience, I'd be a doctor!!!
-
Hey Mica, since I've got to wait another week, my poor suffering self requests that'cha throw me a bone, and post a nice new full body shot of my 6-string beauty -if you get the chance.
If not... hopefully I'll be holding it in a couple of hours and a week from now!
-
Deep breaths Mark... inhale, exhale...
Use your Mantra...
Regards!
-
Mark, sorry, I understand you are waiting for your (...?) strings bass ?
Ok, just a question, if you may answer on 4 lines (it's best to understand for me, shorts posts): why many monthes to build your bass ... It was begin on december 2006 ?!
-
they're busy?
-
The first pics of my custom under construction (not counting the mock ups of the body shape) date to 31 Oct 2006. I placed my order on 3 Dec 05, shortly before I went to Iraq. However, I've been involved with Mica and Susan on getting little details correct, one of which was the body shape. Each time they tweaked the body shape, I was afforded the opportunity to take a look at it and say yea or nay. This is one thing that adds on to the time it takes to build an instrument.
Also, if a customer makes changes to a bass in mid construction Alembic will have to go back and go through the process (make changes, gain customer approval, continue build) again. This adds to time as well.
Finally, the complexity of a customer's wishes also play into the time required. My bass, for example, requires inlaying forty note inlays on the fingerboard a la John Entwistle's famed Exploiters. This is going to take time - some of John's basses took three years to build.
One last thing - just looking at the FTC thread, one can see that there are a bunch of basses under construction at any one moment. When I visited Alembic last year, one of the things I noticed is that not every bass gets worked on every day. Some basses/guitars may be in spray, and the spray has to cure; others are in setup, getting inlays, etc. It's simply not possible to work on each instrument every day due to the things that each instrument must go through to get built. Each step requires the time to do it right. If that process isn't followed, one risks having something go wrong, and I for one would rather have it right than quick.
All of these things conspire to lengthen the time it takes to build an instrument, but they also ensure that Alembic gets it right, the way the customer wants the first time. Speaking for myself only, I'll wait a bit longer if I know it will be the way I like in the end. Others may not feel that way, and that's cool. Regarding my custom, I'm glad Alembic is taking the approach they are with it. I know it will be the bass of a lifetime as a result.
-
Pierre-Yves, to answer your question, I think the wait time is probably mostly due to me. (Short answer to your question.)
After I placed the order, I had some questions regarding the body shape; since I wasn't sure what I wanted, that resulted in a delay, and other orders placed the same time got worked on while mine waited for the next round.
And also, there was at least a little delay while I made measurements on my other bass and communicated with Mica at her insistence -to make certain the measurements would be perfect.
Then, I had a specific request regarding the type of figuring I wanted on the Coco Bolo. While Alembic is known for generally being very accomodating with it's customers regarding figuring -an extra service they don't charge for- it likely added at least some time while they searched for what I wanted; I can't fault them for it, it's part of the price I paid for asking for something specific.
I also changed a request I'd made for a beveled peghead with a mini-omega (like yours), and changed the electronics I'd specified. Both of these change requests -which they were gracious about- added additional wait time. There's a picture in the archives with a note on my neck saying to hold off until I decide what I want.
And finally, I told them all along to take their time with this bass. There had been some tension and difficulties on my prior custom regarding the build time. Due in part to mutual communication issues, and certainly due in part to my being unfamiliar with the build process, I got very frustrated with them. Some of this could have been allievated by them giving me more of a sense of what to expect as a first time custom customer... but I'm certain I could've been more patient as well.
Ultimately, the custom 8-string they made me was incredibly awesome, and equalled or surpassed all my expectations, and looking back, I wish I'd been more patient and supportive more than I wish they'd done whatever things on their end differently. And it ultimately came to my attention that they actually lost a lot of money making my bass... some of the unique features ended up being a lot harder and more costly for them to do then they'd anticipated; in spite of this, they honored their price, and even threw in a couple of really nice extra things just to placate me... Susan even offered to give me a superfilter. I declined, and I'm sure glad I did, 'cause I'd feel like a real heel if I'd taken her up on it, and then found out that they lost money on it.
Mica told me not to worry about it, and that occaissionally it happens. But I learned from the experience, and when I ordered this custom, it was very important to me that they make some money on this order, and that making this bass for me be a relaxed and stress-free experience.
So I told 'em to take their time, and not once did I rush them. They may have taken me at my word.
So, in summary, there were a number of delays that were partially and/or mainly due to me; and I asked them to take their time and to not stress over it. There was enough stress over the last one. (Long answer to your question.)
-
P.S. Major, good attitude, you're right, it will be the bass of a lifetime... and it's looking great!
-
Oh, Pierre-Yves, it's a SIX STRING (6-string) bass.
And the four line answer to your question is:
The order took a long time because: (A) I asked them to take their time; and (B) I had requests that added to the build time; and (C) I made several changes which resulted in delays. Also, (D) there were a few delays resulting from me having to make a few decisions.
-
Your are a super funny man mark !!
I read ALL, many thank's.
Wich month you will have ?
-
(Message edited by pierreyves on September 14, 2007)
-
If I can just add to Alan's comment..
One last thing - just looking at the FTC thread, one can see that there are a bunch of basses under construction at any one moment.
The only instruments we see being crafted are those destined for forum members. There may be a good many other instruments being made at any one time that we will never know about.
Graeme
-
Well, I spoke with Mica today, and finalized shipping arrangements... she expects it to ship out on Monday, and for it to arrive on Wednesday. The lastest picture of it is the best looking yet... it looks absolutely stunning.
It's going to be a long weekend... but I'll be taking the day off to receive the bass at home on Wednesday. I'll be there to personally receive it and make sure there isn't any damage to the packaging... if the bass IS damaged... you might see my name making national headlines... (don't let that happen, great imaginary beings!!!).
But I'm thinking positive, here. And I'll have plenty of my favorite beer handy, and a special treat or two... and there's a good pizzaria around the corner...
Sell-uh-brate good times, come on... it's a celebration!!!
-
HEY MICA, I NEVER SAW A FORMAL ACKNOWLEDGMENT... THAT I'M GETTING A FATBOY PICKUP FOR THE BRIDGE PICKUP. JASON SAID NOT TO WORRY ABOUT THE PRICE, THAT IT WAS ONLY A FIVE DOLLAR DIFFERENCE. AND I FORGOT TO CONFIRM THIS DURING OUR PHONE CALL TODAY... BUT I DO WANT A FATBOY FOR THE BRIDGE PICKUP... AND I WANT WIRING ON BOTH PICKUPS THAT'S LONG ENOUGH THAT I CAN EXPERIMENT WITH SWITCHING THEM!!! PLEASE ACKNOWLEDGE! I MAY CALL TO CONFIRM IN PERSON IF I REMEMBER/GET THE CHANCE, BUT PLEASE CONFIRM EITHER HERE, OR ON THE THREAD IN CHANGES/ADDITIONS. AND OF COURSE, THE MORE CENTERED THE TAILPIECE, THE BETTER. (OF COURSE, IT SHOULD BE A MINOR ISSUE SINCE THE TOP IS BTC...)
-
For clarification, I'd just like to ask that the setup folks endeavor to, as much as possible, have the tailpiece be centered symmetrically with respects to the omega cutout; I've seen a few rare cases where one side of the bird was much closer/lower to the omega, while the other side was a lot higher/farther away... and this would bother me. I know the BTC should make any minor off-centerness irrelevent... but I request the powers that be try to have it be as symmetrical with regards to the omega as possible. Thanks again!
-
Sorry I was busy with a tour when you called. James is aware to put a bridge position FatBoy pickup (with neck length wire) on your bass and a neck position AXY.
-
We also got the word on the change for the shipping address. Will call/email with tracking information when it's available (towards the end of the day, Monday).
-
Thanks for the word, Mica. I'll look forward to getting the tracking confirmation # on Monday -barring some issue.
Again, I can't pick up when you ring, have to wait a minute or two (or ten or twenty -depending on what I'm doing) for a break and call back. Please don't leave a message on my cell -I don't know how to access it off the top of my head, and I had problems when I tried to set it up and access it before; I just wasted minutes unsucessfully trying to access it.
I currently tend to leave a little after 5, and begin the 11 mile bike commute home; and I get home from 6-6:30 depending when I leave. Best to call before then if you call... but I'll check email first thing when home if I don't hear from you.
Really looking forward to it... can't wait to see, feel, and hear it in person; I'm really curious to actually hear the effect of the different woods in the neck, and of the dual BTC Coco Bolo/Mahogany sandwich.
I'll tell you one thing... my 8-String has an absolutely killer sound, just amazing... it's hard to imagine how anything can sound better... though I expect the new 6-String WILL sound better in it's own way/in a different way...
-
You ride your bike 11 miles to work and back; cool!!
-
Almost there Mark! You're going to be pedaling pretty hard around tuesday or wednesday...
-
Hi gang, thanks again for keeping me company during the wait. Yep, I commute 10.5-11 miles/21-22 mile round trip daily...
I very strongly believe in the golden rule and also in leading by example... which is a big part of why bicycling is a big part of my life. It's sustainable, it doesn't f#*k up the environment, and it also keeps me in good health -aside from breathing the fumes of the drivers who don't share my paradigm/perspective.
But I'll actually BE one of them for a couple days this week, to facilitate picking up the bass from a trusted friends' business... he's always open during UPS delivery hours, and I have to work during delivery time... so I'm sending it to him to safely receive it... and then he'll call me, and I'll (safely) haul ass down the road to pick it up!!! (Only 2.2 miles away!!!)
If all goes well, I'll safely receive Elana -named for the stolen Elan the bass is replacing- this Wednesday, and be home to actually play it around 6-6:30... I probably will be too busy with it to post anything that night...
I'm so psyched!!! I've been playing my 8-String a lot recently... and it just blows me away every time I pick it up! It's just so amazing -in every respect! It's incredibly beautiful and unique -both the highly figured Bocate top, and the Flame Maple back/body with the incredible 13-piece laminated neck, with the Ebony neck laminates and the integrated outer Flame Maple neck pairs. And/but the sound is even more incredible... the sound resulting from the neck wood combo -from all the Ebony... and other woods- just gives this bass mind-boggling punch, clarity, and sustain. The sound is almost overwhelming. Yet/but the electronics let me do virtually anything -and quickly and easily.
My 8-String is a dream come true... it has (for me) the ultimate range, and virtually complete, total tone control. With individual bass, mid, and treble controls for each pickup, and ALSO individual filters with IVQs (incrementally variable Qs -0/4/8/12 dbs) for each pickup, I can quickly and easily modify the sound of each individual pickup to get any sound in my head.
The bass never ceases to amaze me. I never once ever have taken it for granted.
Yet, as awesome as it is (exceedingly!!!) it is NOT a small, light, and easy to play bass... relatively speaking, I'm a pretty good player... I'm devoted, formally educated, and I've put in LOTS of practice time, critically analyzing and improving my technique and playing. And I can rip pretty good on the 8-String. But the fact remains that it's a big, heavy, extra long scale bass, with a big, long, wide neck... it simply can't be played the same way as a smaller, shorter, lighter bass... it just can't. Reality won't permit it. It's absolutely amazing, and incredible for what it is; but, conversely, it's not what it's not.
So, Elana will be a different paradigm... a smaller and lighter bass, with a shorter scale. Less strings, less controls, and less fancy. I simply couldn't go all out on this bass. Nonetheless, this bass will NOT be a lightweight in any respect; with multiple options that make it cost more than what I would've/could've paid for a standard Series I, this bass will be a heavyweight in the looks, sound, and versatility department.
The details were VERY carefully thought out, with help from club members and of course Mica as well. Built from a carefully thought out recipe of 6 different proven tone woods, it sports an incredibly cool unique neck that is strong and awesome looking, sandwiched between stunningly figured BTCered Coco Bolo on either side. And the electronics, though not as impressive and ultimatized as the custom electronics on my 8-string, are pretty freaking impressive... Signature electronics, with the Q switches upgraded to Series I style 0/6/9 db switches... and a pair of (master) bass & treble control knobs as well...
No, this bass will NOT be lacking in ANY area... not in looks, sound, nor versatility. The fact is, this bass should/WILL totally rock in all of these areas.
This bass will be a heavyweight... it should stand out in every area. Appearancewise, soundwise, and versatilitywise, this will stand out, even among Alembics... this bass will be one of the best of the best.
I just can't wait!!! I've been working out on her big brother 8 Strings of Power... so when I get this smaller/lighter bass... I should be able to totally shred on it!!!
Argh!!! I'm so psyched!!! It sucks, having to wait! But that's life. And there are certainly much worse fates! All things considered, it's not that bad!!!
Thanks again for keeping me company, folks, and for your support and feedback! Soon, my latest Alembic journey will be over/beginnning... and/but I'll be here to help others as they've helped me!
Happy trails!!!
Just 3 more days... hopefully!!!
-
hey Mark. Good for you for cycling. My commute is 9 miles each way and I manage 3 days a week on the bike ( the other two days have to be driven due to apres-work commitments). Some days we can get some pretty miserable weather here in Scotland but getting to work faster than the cars more than makes up for it;-)
graeme
p.s. 3 days is a lifetime in 'alembic-wait' days ;-)
-
Whew!!! What a L O N G weekend!!! And now the countdown continues! Today is hopefully the day of reckoning, and hopefully, I will, by the time I've come home, gotton either a phone call and/or email confirming Elana has shipped, and gotton a tracking number! We'll see!
-
So close yet...
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/44097.jpg)
The custom bridgeblock needed to be remade, and it didn't make it out of finish today. So we should be back on track for tomorrow. Will keep you posted of course.
-
WOW Mark, Look at the gorgeous baby of yours. Can I hold her?haha
Hang in there buddy, you are at that point. Like they said take deep breaths, I know what it's like. We're routing for ya.
GoGoGoGoGo Tomorrow!
Paul
-
HEY MICA, PLEASE CHECK YOUR EMAIL FOR AN IMPORTANT (but minor) CHANGE TO SHIPPING INFO!!! We'll be sending it to the same PLACE... but I'm changing a name of one of the signers... as one fellow won't be there Thursday, and another one will...
It looks phenomenal, best picture yet!!! The Coco Bolo looks incredibly gorgeous, and I thank you and Bob (and everyone else) once again. Of course, the figuring is awesome... as is the disguised BTC. But I'm also quite pleased with the color... it looks halfway between orange and red, and relatively light... which is important 'cause I know it'll darken up with time, so I'm glad it's not ALREADY dark, otherwise I might eventually not be able to see that awesome figuring.
Tom Z and I had a little jam several weeks ago... he's a very nice fellow, and he graciously let me play the Ghost Crow. It had darkened quite a bit from the photo in the Custom Archives... and it was noticably nicer than my Les Paul. This comes as no surprise, of course... and my Les Paul is an awesome guitar... but Tom's Alembic smoked it.
Anyway (that was a digression, obviously) I'm grateful for everything, including the color of the Coco Bolo. The electronics control configuration/layout also looks great, and I thank you and James for your efforts in carefully measuring it for my picky self!!!
The honey color of the Mahogany also looks great, as does the details (that I can see) of the pinstrips stopping when they hit the neck.
It just looks so incredible, I don't know what else to say. I still feel the anger and heartbreak of my stolen Elan... but seeing this does make me feel better... and I've no doubt this bass will blow it away... especially with the customized string spacing. My Elan, while awesome, had a very wide neck... I could play it fine -I tore it up- but it wasn't the spacing I would have chosen. This bass has my ideal spacing.
I'm also really glad I ordered the Balance K Omega instead of another Europa, or a Rogue or (longshot) Scorpian (an old Alembic favorite of mine) body. The Balance K... it is, to me the ultimate Alembic body... it has a screaming Alembic look to it, a look which evokes the classic Alembic basses, yet with a more modern aesthic and functional twist...
I can't wait to get my hands on this bass!!! I'm expecting it to blow away my old Elan in every respect... the body is more awesome, the Coco (on both sides!) is more awesome (especially with the dual BTC!), the neck is MUCH more awesome, the electronics are MUCH more versatile and awesome, and there are a couple other awesome things too -like the custom pinstrips, the bird and the continuous wood backplates (you do realize you're sadistic for not posting a picture of them yet, don't you?)!!!
Am I psyched??? YOU BETCHA!!!
I'll be composing a short email to you shortly after submitting this post -with the additional information. I'll almost certainly try to call you tomorrow from work to confirm that you got it, and have it on the box.
Thanks again for everything, Mark
-
I HOPE you have your baby very quickly !!! No clinic in your quarter ? Lol!!!
Sorry but I can't read all this thread who seems like a bible, lol !! But what for electronic is ... and what are 2 knobs more than signature ?
-
The electronics are Signature with two upgrades: the Q switches are 3-position (0/6/9 -like the Series I) and there is a master bass and a master treble control! The upgraded Q switches and the addition of the EQ knobs should tremendously increase the tonal versatility of this instrument!
Okay, it sounds like today will be the day my bass is on the way! YAY!!!
-
The electronics are Signature with two upgrades: the Q switches are 3-position (0/6/9 -like the Series I) and there is a master bass and a master treble control! The upgraded Q switches and the addition of the EQ knobs should tremendously increase the tonal versatility of this instrument!
Okay, it sounds like today will be the day! YAY!!!
-
I think it's a good sound/price alternative ... series I offer just stereo more...not really stereo but have an action on the sound for each pickup, wich will done expensive amplification and certainly not really best sound ?
-
The series pickups are a totally different beast to any of the 'lesser' models. there's an interesting discussion about them here (http://club.alembic.com/index.php?topic=293)
if 'stereo' was the only difference we wouldn't be looking at thousands of pounds / dollars / euros difference ;-)
Graeme
p.s. Apparently, the series preamp is also different.
(Message edited by jacko on September 18, 2007)
-
Thank's, I don't understand all (what is a fatboy?), but effectively It would be some difference ...
-
Very interesting and helpful in understanding post jacko. Thanks very much for installing that.
P
-
Hey Mark,
I seem to remember you talking about instrument insurance and I thought it was on your thread but I can't seem to find it. Can you point me to it? This is something I've been meaning to do for a while.
Dave
-
Dave, the recent post you saw was on Pauls Series II Mele Aloha bass thread in FTC.
But here's a direct link to Heritage insurance: http://www.heritage-ins-services.com/ (http://www.heritage-ins-services.com/)
Pierre-Yves, a Fatboy is a different, non-Series pickup. A lot of people are quite gung-ho on them (like them, American slang). On the recommendation of Joey BigRedBass and other members, I've asked for my bridge pickup to be a Fatboy.
-
Even though you know it's done, it's nice to see a photo:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/44147.jpg)
Should be arriving on Thursday, and you can track the progress with the number I emailed to you. It looks and plays and sounds great.
-
Lovely stuff. Enjoy it Mark~
-
Man that looks good! Congrats Mark! Don't know if I could play with that spacing but nice bass all the same!
P.S Thanks for the insurance link.
-
Excuze me while I wipe the drool off my computer screen and keyboard.....
Mike (The 'Ho).....
-
[size=0]WOO HOO!!! IT'S ON THE WAY!!![/size]
Absolutely stunning!!! Mind-boggling!!! Superlative-inducing!!! It's going to be a couple VERY long days waiting!!! That's okay -as long as it gets to me safely, the wait doesn't matter... it'll be over soon, and then we'll be together forever!!! (Well, until I'm wormfood... or a glowing radioactive mutant post-apocalyptic zombie... no, wait, I could still conceivable play it then... oh, I'll just deal with that if it happens...)
So the final wait has begun. Thanks for the additional picture to tide me over, Mica! I guess I'll have to suffer a few more days until I get to see the back with the continueous woodplate in all its glory.
I KNOW from experience, it will most certainly be worth the wait.
I again want to thank Alembic for their imput and work in creating this masterpiece, my other masterpiece, and all the amazing instruments they've created for all of us over the decades.
This is just as good as it gets, folks... it's just that simple. A dream in my head, transformed into reality.
And again, I want to thank my fellow club members for their help and support, and for keeping me company during the wait!
I got a lot of valuable inspiration and good ideas from other folks here, and from their instruments... and I appreciate it. Hopefully my instrument(s) and my ideas will at least in some small way inspire and/or be helpful to others.
So thanks again, all! If all goes well, it'll arrive safely on Thursday, and then I'll take it home... stare at it for a while... fondle it... and play it... probably for a long time. You might not hear from me for a day or two, as I may hibernate with it. I'll also have 2 days off, which I'll spend nearly entirely with Elana and Erica (my human girlfriend)! So I'll be busy. But I'll be thinking of y'all, gang, and looking forward to the rest of you getting your masterpieces, Dave, Mike, Paul, and everybody else! So take care gang, best wishes, and thanks for yours!!!
-
I've heard if you leave the two of them in the closet for a while you'll get a Series... OK, never mind.
Mark I may hold up the UPS truck like they did with stage coaches in the old days cuz it's so purdy!
Congrads bro, but don't forget to do the dishes occasionally to keep mama off your Okole.
P
-
Ooeee! looking sweet mark. Be sure and post photos of the back when she arrives.
graeme
-
They really did a great job with your request to hide the BTC. It looks like 1 piece of wood.
-
That is really beautiful Mark. Be sure to let us see the back! The Alembic company really makes the finest of basses IMHO.
Wishing you many years of health while playing that gorgeous bass!
(Message edited by artswork99 on September 19, 2007)
-
Thank's for your explanation (??) Mark. Your bass is wonderful...nothing else to say, just I'm thinking on you, waiting for two looooooooooong days !!
-
Well, now it's only ONE (more) day!!! If all goes well, it'll safely arrive tomorrow and be in my hands and home by this time tomorrow!
-
only ONE line and a quarter ??
;o)
Be carefull, your heart will break !!
;o)
I will happy with a lot of pictures.
-
This is the day... sure hope it arrives safely and intact! Please, great imaginary beings...
-
Almost there! I don't expect we'll be hearing from you tonight...
-
Good luck Mark the bass is beautiful. Lot's of pix please. I'm also curious on how the balance is with six strings on that small balance k. I play in the 1-2 o'clock position. Will the bass stay there or go directly to the three o'clock?I love the look and I've been thinking about cheating on my Rogues for the next one.Which will be either a six or seven string. Val's batman meets klingon (which I love and in awe of)is inspiration for a extended pistol grip to help with the balance.Please respond when time allows,in the mean time enjoy your honey(s).
-
Beautiful bass! Very cool depth to the grain!
- Jim
-
No post from Mark in almost 16 hours - I guess it got there! Congrats, bro - when you come up for air, let us know by how much it exceeds expectations.
Peter
-
Hey Mark,
Need a cigarette?
-
Mark, Hello!!!!
Mark hello, come out of there and come look at mine next door.
Knock Knock It's Paul, Hello Mark
-
Okay, I've been playing for over 3 hours with a short break, so I'm going to tell it like it is. The bass safely arrived about 1/2way thru my shift at work... I got the call, punched out on break, confirmed it was safely there, and drove my girlfriends Jeep the 2.2 miles. Seconds later, I had it in my hands, and about 90 seconds later -most of the time going to contain and transfer the styrofoam peanuts- I has the case out... and open.
First I inspected it for damage, carefully -especially at the omega tips and at the headstock... didn't find any. Then I looked it over good and close...
Like many (if not most or even all) Alembics... the pictures simply don't do it justice. It's a stunning beauty -in many/all respects. The Coco Bolo is fabulous, a gorgeous deep rich wine red color, with lots of brownish-black figuring, and subtle variations and transisitions of coloring; it also has a similar (though not as dramatic) visual characteristic to various Figured Maples and Koa in that the coloring shimmers/changes a little as you move it around. Everything about it is incredibly, stunningly beautiful.
The rest goes for the rest of the instrument (that being the neck, and the Mahogany body). The Mahogany body has a more humble -yet impressive- beauty compared to say the my Flame Maple-bodied Europa; but it's awesome -especially in the overall context. It IS very beautify, especially it's honey color, but also it's subtle structure, grain, and shimmer -especially being sandwiched between the dark wine Coco Bolo. The contrast is really neat; and I really love the overall darkness of this bass (though it has overall balance with some lightness in the overall color). And the pinstrips look great, noticable but subtle, and they provide a small, thin, but very noticable accent line... it looks so great! And they did something especially cool for me with the accent laminates... they stop when they hit the body... they don't go over the neck... the Coco Bolo lies directly on the neck... the pinstripes are only on the Mahogany body wings. This looks extra cool -especially at the omega. And the omegas another extra cool thing. I didn't ask them to do this, but I wanted it, and it's like they read my mind; the part cut out for/of the omega on either side (of the whole) doesn't completely divide the physical wood of the tips from the rest of the neck. MY omega tips are actually continueous laminates of wood... and I prefer this.
Of course, the continueous back woodplate looks great as they do. As does the peghead on both sides.
What is left, of course, is the neck. It looks fantastic, exactly like what I had in mind... yet even better than I conceived, because (again) overall context...
Despite the broad range of colors in the neckwoods, it really blends in, yets stands out; it's understated, yet bold and supremely confident in it's appearance; it has a... typical/classic Alembic appearance... and yet a distinct and memorable show-stopping appearance.
And it's exactly what I wanted and imagined... only better. It's an unsurpassed gem... at least in my eyes. I'm especially grateful to their attention to detail with the woodworking. They just nailed the disguised BTC on both sides amazingly. I can only see it if I look REALLY HARD -and then it's barely visible. It's basically impossible to see unless I put it right up in my face and take my glasses off, and turn it at different angles under a light!
And the tailpiece... is perfectly (or so close it doesn't matter) centered around the Omega... this is the most important thing. Thinkin about the tailpiece thread a while back, and my own desire for a centered tailpiece, I looked at it very closely. It looks great, period. If you look closely, the layout and relative centeredness of the (a)tailpiece, (b) bridge, and (c) pickups don't exactly line up; yet, as I looked at this, I saw that, due to the different size and functions of these three things, you CAN'T have them all line up perfect with each other. But what they gave me was pretty perfectly close to the best reality could allow -given the specifics of the components. They're only slightly imperfectly out of line, yet the overall balance of these 3 things makes perfect sense. It works, and looks great, and if I look closely, I don't see something perfect symmetrical -but rather something which looks great and works perfectly. The control layout is awesome.
IT JUST LOOKS ABSOLUTELY, MIND-BOGGLINGLY AWESOME!!!
Well, when I opened up the case, after I inspected it, the next thing I did was tune it up. Immediately, I noticed 3 strings were badly rattling. I knew an adjustment or two was in order. I called Alembic on my cell, and Jason answered; I was having a hard time hearing him and communicating (my cell) but he confirmed it had been tested and set up (of course) and that it was probably due to a humidity change (very humid there, not like here and the desert along the way).
So I calmly and patiently followed Alembics instructions for adjustment. I loosened the truss rods in increments of 1/6th of a turn sessions. After about 4 of these turns, I only noticed a slight improvement, so I loosened the strings a bit, and very slightly raised the adjustable nut according to instructions -just a little on the bass side, and then did three more separate 1/6th turn sessions, after which is sounded a little better -but was still buzzing.
So I detuned the strings a second time, VERY slightly raised the nut a little more on BOTH sides, raised the bridge SLIGHTLY, and then did 3 more 1/6th turn sessions, each of which was noticably better than the last... by the 3rd additional (10th) turn, the buzz was gone. Then I checked the tuning, and proceeded to play... first to hear the overall tone -I've been so curious- and to check the tone system to see how versatile it really is, and how much variation I can acheive with it.
First, the sound is absolute amazing. Just dynamite. For years, I thought my 8-string Europa is the best bass I've ever heard... and it's fantastic. But this bass rivals it, and even blows it away soundwise in certain respects.
The wood recipe is a total success!!! I wanted this 6-string built with 6 or 7 woods. I considered asking for Walnut for the outer neck laminates... it was a hard decision, but I decided to leave Walnut out of the recipe, because there wasn't a good place for it... I wanted other woods everyplace else.
Being familer with an all-Maple Elan, and my awesome 8-string, I know both the sound of a standard Maple/Purpleheart neck... and also of an Ebony-fortified neck. My 6-strings custom still has 2 of the Maple neck laminates, but the big outer two are switched for Mahogany, while the inner two are switched for Vermillion -which is said to sound similar to Mahogany, but a little more brilliant and warm.
So this neck is very different sounding... from a standard Maple/Purpleheart neck... and also from my 8-Strings neck, which is dominated by Ebony, with Maple being the secondary overall sound. I can hear it, and I love it. The flavor of this neck is complex, with a very noticable and pleasant Mahogany (with a Vermillion component, balanced with/against a noticable Purpleheart/Ebony component -with Maple as a 3rd (but noticable) component.
It's an awesome balance. The Mahogany/Vermillion component is warm, rich round and full; the Purpleheart does what it's supposed to do, adding stiffness, sustain, and low-end response... yet the sole Ebony laminate in the center seems to blend with and dominate the Purpleheart sound. It's nowhere near as powerful and dominating as the SIX Ebony lams on my 8-string (plus the 3 Purpleheart lams)... but there is NO missing it... the single Ebony lam kicks ass, and contributes to the overall tone/sound considerably.
I think the Mahogany/Vermillion component is about 40% of the neck sound, the Purpleheart/Ebony is about 40%, and the Maple is about 20%.
And then there's the Coco Bolo -wrapped around a semi-hollow Mahogany body... Alembics house recipe. BTCered on both sides to get the maximum Coco Bolo visually, and sonicly.
Now I KNOW what Coco Bolo sounds like -in a big way- and it ROCKS. Just AWESOME!!! I gotta say, compared to the Maple-topped and bodied Elan it's replacing, the sound of the Coco Bolo just BLOWS THE MAPLE AWAY.
It sounds so rich and snappy, just like described... it's incredibly clear and bell-like in it's tone, with a rich and complex tone, with full, round and powerful lows... yet balanced and not overpowering.
When I think of the few times I heard other basses that I envied because of a great sound they had that my bass didn't seem to be able to get... THIS BASS BLOWS 'EM ALL AWAY. It's got a whole different tone... and it's a monster! This bass has incredible authority!!!
Finally, the last detail that brings it all together and makes it perfect is the tone control system. My 8-string has 16 controls, 12 of which are tone controls; this has exactly half that... 8 controls, six of which are town controls.
The system is just absolutely perfect, and mind-bogglingly versatile. The 3-position Qs are perfect! 6dbs is a nice Q level as a reference, and I can either boost it a little more to 9dbs or cut the Q to O. It's so simple to select sounds with the filter, boost or cut the Q, and mix the sound from the two pickups... it's just awesome. But the kicker is the extra bass & treble knobs. The versatility they add is absolutely amazing, and perfects the filters, since anytime I take away trebles with the filter -to get a certain sound with the Q- I can compensate with the treble control.
All I can say is it works perfectly, and makes great sense. The individual filters, Qs and blend control are incredibly versatile; the bass& treble controls complete it, and make it perfect, allowing me to do anything. Something I've already done is just totally leave the filters open with the Qs off, and just boost the extremes of the bass & treble controls... like it only had Epic controls... it sounds awesome!
It's exactly what I hoped for in appearance AND sound. The information and feedback I got from other club members and Mica made me highly educated when I very carefully designed this bass, and the combination of woods and the sound they deliver... delivers.
It has an incredibly warm, rich, detailed and complex sound... while somehow being very neutral and centered somehow in it's sound. My 8-string sounds great... but it's natural sound -before I use any of the electronics- that it starts out with is an extreme of sorts to begin with.
In that way, this bass is certainly more versatile sonicly in some ways; the existing tonal/sound landscape this bass has to start with when I roll the filters is very different from that of my 8-string.
So, in summary it's awesome, and seemingly perfect -or so close I can't tell/it doesn't matter- in every way. The design and physical beauty is outstanding, unique, and awesome, an absolute drop dead knockout, exuding class and many captivating attributes; the sound quality is phenomenal, just an incredible warm rich snappy versatile sound you can't help but to just love and smile when you hear it; and the tone control system perfects it, and brings the bass' sonic potential out far more than just filters alone. It's so incredibly easy to tweak the sound any way I want it. I already completely understand how to use my tone controls, and have total mastery of them; they're like on my Europa, only more simple: 3 Q positions instead of 4, no mid controls, and only one set of bass & treble controls. It's so easy.
And the Balance K is just the ultimate body... it's SO comfortable, balanced, and accessible! It's so easy to play. I am just totally ripping on this thing... it's like going to Mars, where the gravity is only 38% of Earths (it's red like Mars, too).
So that's it. It's awesome beyond words, beyond description (but I tried).
Thanks again, everyone! Thanks to Mica, Bob, Susan, Ron, Mary, and all the other fine folks at Alembic who helped make this incredible instrument! It's an utter masterpiece, incredible in every respect, appearance, sound, versatility, playability, and comfort.
Appearance, tone, comfort, versatility, and playability...A+++ it just couldn't get any better!!!!!!
(Message edited by the 8 string king on September 21, 2007)
-
Hey Mark, you will be in guiness book !!! More than 100 lines !!!
ONE picture, pictures, pictures .....!!!
I'm happy for you.
;o))
-
Only 124 lines Mark, you're slipping. I expected at least 200 when you got this beauty home ;-)
Seriously, I'm really glad she's made it home in exactly the condition and spec you wanted. I know you put alot of thought into your requirements and it sounds like that extra effort has really payed off.
To echo Pierreyves, pictures. Especially the back.
graeme
-
I'm amazed you could put her down long enough to write all that Mark. Glad she made the jouney safely!
Mark
-
Dude! Thanks for the great report! Made me get mine out again and remember the day I got it. You've managed to depict exactly how it feels - unbelievable desire to inspect every detail and finding pleasant surprises everywhere. Alembic sure knows how to build bass guitars. Your bass is beautiful beyond words. ENJOY!
-
Mark, that is just amazing...I'm really happy for you! Enjoy!
-
Mark - Unbelievable instrument!! Really enjoyed your story on its arrival. Congratulations and play it in good health. (Remember the bib for drouling - we don't want any spit dots on the top edge)
Dean
-
Cool, take it ALL easy ... cool....
You are in defcom 7 !!!!
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/44256.jpg)
With kindness !!!
-
Mark - congrats! Can't wait to see the pictures. Very thorough report.
-
In the thread about string spacing/fingerboard dimensions, you mentioned that you had some special requests for control layout. Please collect those thoughts and links to any helpful images on this page.
-
Was this (http://club.alembic.com/index.php?topic=8881) the red Essence you were talking about?
-
No, that's not the one, but I did find it! It's the (red flame maple) Essense of Life in the Essense section in Showcase.
Now the pictures are at an angle, so I'm not getting a perfect straight-on view of the controls; it looks like they're not perfectly centered/symetrical... but I really like the basic design.
If this design were perfectly symetrical, I'd really love it... love the aethetics of it. The design I'm talking about is simple: you form a symetrical diamond shape with 4 knobs, and then replace the 4th (lower) knob with a line of 3 toggle switches, with the center one centered where the center of the 4th knob was. And then maybe slightly raise/lower the line. Sort of like this:
..................B
....F..........................V
..............T..Q..B
Any, Mica, my price quote didn't include customizing the control configuration, and I don't want you folks to do anything that's going to add to your time or make this sale less profitable for you. I view any such request like this as a bonus subject to your discretion, and I withdraw the request in the event that it would require any extra-difficult measures. I'm just asking 'cause... it doesn't hurt to ask. Maybe it wouldn't be any harder, and I'd be missing out by not asking.
Anyway, I wasn't planning on asking for a custom layout. I just noticed that you already seemed to have an alternate layout for the Europa/Rogue controls, which I've seen on several Essense basses, two of which are in the Essense section in Showcase: the Burl Amboyna Essense (with Ebony neck laminates, what a beauty!) and the Erratic Zebrawood Essense.
I find that (even though I prefer symettry in general) I prefer the assymetrical layout used for the Essense basses to the standard Europa/Rogue configuration.
So I thought that it might be the case that this would be an existing variant/model/configuration that would be no harder to do than the standard configuration. I don't even want to ask you to do anything that will add to your time... but I thought this might not (add any more/be any different).
Then I noticed the setup on that Essense of Life, which I'd like even better -provided it was symetrical.
That's it. I'm trying to be detailed here, but it just seems to come out long-winded! Sorry!
Short version: standard setup is fine, I don't expect more; but I'd prefer the setup used on those Essense basses, and I'd prefer the symetrical diamond setup above even more.
-
The control layouts on the Erratic Zebrawood (http://club.alembic.com/index.php?topic=8885) and the Amboyna Burl (http://club.alembic.com/Images/411/768.html?1134246405) are the standard layout for adding Europa electronics to an Essence body. The Amboyna one has an added switch for LEDs, and is a little cramped for my style. We have a program to route this already. Usually we route the electronics cavity and the holes for the controls with our CNC machine. If we do it by hand, it takes more time. We still cut the backplate with the CNC, but the hole placement is done with a hand drill.
On the Essence of Life (http://club.alembic.com/Images/411/10260.html?1084983164) bass, it looks like it originally had Essence controls, then the Europa, including side jack was added later. This was certainly drilled by hand.
If you want a custom control layout, it will probably be drilled by hand, and it may involve an additional charge, it just sort of depends.
The wiring you've specified would be custom and have a minimum bench charge associated with it. Usually we connect the Bass and treble switched adjacent to each other with the Q switch on the end.
Here's what I think you were getting out with your sketch:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/34896.jpg)
This isn't the body shape you have under consideration, but I've made it symmetrical, and also noted that the output jack has to live somewhere.
-
Thanks, Mica, I sure appreciate your detailed response.
If I've understood you correctly, you've got a program for the machine to route for Europa/Rogue controls in an Essense-Europa configuration, and that would be no extra charge.
My preference, then, would be for one of two things. The Essense-Europa configuration would be the default preference -if what I'm about to propose would either be extra $ and/or significantly increase production.
I wouldn't want to pay extra for bench time -to custom wire as it were; but... question... what if you followed the (diamond) pattern, but just placed the specific switches at your discretion...?
You see, I REALLY love the aesthetics of your mock-up... (you did a GREAT job with it, by the way). However, 90% of the oodles (units of mental gratification) lie in the configuration, and only 10% in the specific order.
So, punch line here, if this diamond configuration were something that Alembic could easily do for no extra headache nor extra charge for me, I'd be psyched, and the minor lack of oodles for not getting my precise ideal configuration would be instantly forgotten as I'd still prefer the diamond shape (with the electronics in whatever configuration) twice as much as the Essense-Europa configuration -which I'd prefer twice as much as the standard configuration!
Bottom line: this is a MINOR detail... BUT...
If the cost/labor is equal/not extra, let's go for the Essense-Europa configuration...
UNLESS... the cost/labor -for the diamond configuration (specifics position of controls at Alembic's discretion) was equal/not extra -in which case THAT would be my preference (assuming it was all nice and symetrical).
That's it. Minor detail. You've got all you need to know what I want, and how feasible everything is. I know I'll be extremely happy regardless, so I'm not going to bring this up again, either. I won't be disappointed with whatever you come up with; the only question will be if I'm super-duper satisfied, or merely super-satisfied!
Thanks again, I appreciate the work you put into this, the detailed explaination and mockup made everything totally clear!
-
Oh, duh, and regarding the jack position...
I couldn't find a price difference on the quote generator... I seem to dimly recall/believe that it's 2 or 3 hundred retail extra for the side jack I'd prefer, so I think I'm just defaulting to the standard front jack, which is no biggie.
I'd pretty much defer to your recommendation regarding jack placement. The only objections I'd have were if the jack were placed in a place that interfered with the controls or practical function -and I can't see you coming up with anything like that!
-
One more thing:
I've given this some thought, and come to the conclusion that IF the Diamond Formation control-configuration is something that Alembic can provide for me at no extra cost -and I'm only interested if (A) it DOESN'T cost extra; and (B) y'all do it PERFECTLY symmetrical- I'd prefer to flip it around, and have the 3 toggle switches be closer to the strings -instead of closer to the outer edge of the body.
Now, if Alembic CAN do this at no extra cost, it would be a nice bonus, and EITHER WAY would be preferred to the other options. Maybe y'all were prepared to do it the original Diamond Formation way I requested, but it would be harder to flip it around for some reason (or maybe not).
Anyway, to update/clarify:
Here are the four options for my Europa electronics control configuration, in order of preference:
(1) Symmetric Diamond Formation -with the toggles closer to the strings;
(2) Symmetric Diamond Formation -with the toggles closer to the edge of the body;
(3) Essence/Europa-Style; and
(4) Standard Europa/Rogue Configuration
I prefer the side jack, but my understanding is this is extra -and I don't have the moolah to pay for it, and wouldn't ask you to lose any money giving it to me as a freebee if it does have an extra charge associated with it.
So if this is so, just mount it on the front at your discretion -wherever you think best. I have full confidence in your judgement.
Thanks again for everything! I can't wait to see it when it's set up... I know it'll look great with whatever configuration it ultimately has!!!
-
At this point, we have to decide on the side jack. You've already paid for it because Europa electronics come with a side jack, so if you dn't want it, you can use the $ for the custom control layout. We can't glue up the body until the jack is decided, because the side jack takes a slightly thicker body (1.65 compared to 1.55).
If we do a custom layout, you'll be approving the layout with a mock-up. You'll have to give me some direction, like a particular post number or a URL to a photo that has what you want or a piece of paper in the mail to get me started on the layout.
But for now, I simply need to know: side or face mounted jack.
-
Ooh, that's great news... that the side jack isn't any extra $!!!
I prefer the side jack... and, if/since it doesn't cost extra, then it's a no-brainer!
I DEFINITELY WANT THE SIDE JACK!!!
-
We need to get some visual references for your custom control layout. Or else we can just do the standard Europa layout. Let me know what you prefer.
-
As far as the control layout goes, you've ALREADY DONE the mockup -in your post above, with the red Essence (post 3936).
This is option (2) that I described above (my post -#471).
The mockup you've done seems to nail it perfectly -at least as far as I can tell. You can use it as a reference.
Option (1) (above, same post -#471) consists of just switching (location of) the toggles with the pan/blend control -so the toggles are closer to the strings, and the pan/blend closer to the edge of the body.
But again, I don't want to pay for this... I just don't have the money. I guess I could consider it if the charge was very little... more than a little, I'll have to pass. (In which case, my preference would be to have the controls laid out like the layout you use when using Europa electronics on an Essence bass -like the Erratic Zebrawood and Burl Amboyna Essence basses we discussed earlier.)
It's no big deal, regardless. I'll be VERY HAPPY with this bass with ANY of these layouts. I'm already pleased as punch that there's no charge for the side jack... I wasn't sure, but I sorta thought there was... and I'm glad to be wrong!
I got the impression from you there WASN'T any extra charge to get the Essence/Europa layout -as you already have a program for this in the CNC machine. Please confirm. If so, then this should be the tentative layout plan. If not, then we'll just default to the standard Europa/Rogue layout. No biggie either way.
The Symmetrical Diamond formation/layout would just be a little bonus. But it sounds like it's probably extra, so I'll probably write it off.
But I guess I'd be interested in a quote for it, just to cover the basses. For clarification, I'm just asking for a quote on the PATTERN, NOT the LOCATION of individual controls. You already made it clear there would be a minimum bench charge, for example, to put the Q switch BETWEEN the bass & treble toggles. My primary interest in the Symmetrical Diamond formation is that the symmetry of the pattern is pleasing to my eye; customized/specific control locations WITHIN THAT PATTERN is a secondary interest.
-
So the plan, in short, is to have a side jack, with the control layout that is standard when Europa controls are installed in/on an Essense body. For visual reference, you can refer to the Erratic Zebrawood Essense you linked about (or the Amboyna Essense -but that has an extra toggle).
This is based on the understanding that there is NO EXTRA CHARGE to have this layout.
I'm 100% CERTAIN I want the side jack, and 98% certain I want the Essense/Europa setup.
The 2% difference is due to the fact that I'd prefer the Diamond setup... but I'm probably not able/willing to pay the cost.
Please (A) confirm that the Essense/Europa layout isn't extra; and (B) give me a quote for the cost of the Diamond setup -at which point I can be 100% sure... and then there won't be ANY other issues at my end other than the minor issue of 3 vs 5 screws on the tailpiece.
Thanks, Mica!
-
Since I've settled on my electronics package -Signature electronics with Q switches upgraded to 3-position & a single pair of master bass & treble controls- I'm posting my control layout preferences in this thread -where they belong (more than in the other thread... or at least as much.
First of all, I'll be easy to please. The second and third options you offered Shim (see his control layout thread) are all adequate). But I'll start with my #1 ideal configuration. Copied from other threads, here it is:
..........NECK...............BASS
..........FILT................CONT
..........KNOB...............KNOB
.................................
.......................N..........
.......................Q..........
.................................
......MAST.......................BLEN
......VOLU.........LED.........CONT
......KNOB.......................KNOB
.................................
.......................B..........
.......................Q..........
.................................
..........BRID...............TREB
..........FILT................CONT
..........KNOB..............KNOB
Obviously, the LED switch should be disregarded, as my bass doesn't have LEDs. The setup is similar to my 8-String: two rows of three knobs, with the center knobs in each row slightly farther away from each other, and the Q switches centered in the area/space between the center 2 knobs, and the pairs on either side.
The row of (neck) filter, volume, (bridge) filter would be closest to the strings, while the (other) row of bass, blend, treble (the 3 knobs with center dentents) would be closer to the edge of the body.
Being symmetrical/even/non-irregular is important -whether this configuration is selected, or another is selected.
Now this is my ideal, but -as I said- some of the other ones you offered Shim are fine. For clarification, my next most desired configuration would be what you posted in your post 4038 in his control layout thread; my third most desired configuration would be in your post 4044 (same thread) WITH THE MINOR MODIFICATION of REPOSITIONING THE 2 q SWITCHES TO HAVE THEM CENTERED BETWEEN THE CENTER PAIR OF KNOBS AND THE OUTER PAIRS TO EITHER SIDE.
All three of these choices are very similar, of course. I'm much less fond of the first option you offered him (your post 4032) and in your posts 4108 and 4110. I don't like these.
So, these are my 3 preferred choices -in order of preference. Hopefully at least one of them will work. As long as any of them will, cool! If not, please get back to me when convenient and communicate the challenge/issue.
It looks to me like the jack shouldn't be a problem in any case. Ideally, I'd prefer for it to be outside the perimeter of the knobs.
Oh yeah, something I was thinking about asking for was to have (just) the two center knobs (volume & blend) be the older/larger style knobs. I'd love to see a mockup at your convenience when it's close to time. I envision it as looking cool in my head... but maybe in reality it would look goofy!
Thanks, Mica!
-
Hey Mica, upon further consideration I will NOT be considering asking you for the two old style knobs for the two middle knobs.
I realized, upon thinking about it, that it would impose an extra and unnecessary challenge for whoever drills the holes for the electronics; I'm already asking for a symmetrical layout; and having to consider the additional factor of the differing radius' of the different knobs... it's too much. I'll just keep it simple, and ask for all six of my knobs to be the same type, the standard knobs you use currently.
Thanks again, Mark
-
So is this sort of what you had in mind?
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/43541.jpg)
(apply your labels from post 693)
If the orientation is right for you, I will make an exact layout for drilling, since your bass is ready to drill.
-
Yes, ma'am, that's EXACTLY what I had in mind!!!
Thanks, it looks absolutely AWESOME!!!
Now please excuse me, I need to go wipe up some drool...
-
Ready to do the drilling. Here's the knobs in position before we do the deed:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/43926.jpg)
This is slightly revised from the rough draft above. Give me the go ahead and we will drill away.
-
It looks pretty good, essentially just what I'd like... and it even looks a little better than the previous version, with the jack being in-line with the Q switches... I prefer the aesthetics of this version.
There's just one thing... maybe it's just the picture here... but the Q switches -at least the bridge pickup Q switch- don't seem centered. The bridge pickup Q switch appears to be closer to the bridge filter than to the (should be) treble knob below it.
Again, maybe it's just this picture... I realize that this is a mockup, and that you've just taped on the stuff.
I just want to emphasize that I'd like it to be as symmetrical as possible, so I'd like each of the Q switches to be centered between the two inner knobs (volume and balance) and the outer knobs on either side, so that they're the same distance from either of the outer knobs, and the same distance from either of the inner knobs.
(Obviously, since I've request the inner knobs be a little farther from each other, the Q switches will necessarily be farther from the two inner knobs than from the 2 knobs on either side.)
So that's it! It looks great, and even better than the previous mockup -because of the new jack location. I kind of disliked the old jack position a little, but it was a minor snivel, and I just didn't want to ask you to move it as it might be a hassle. But since you came up with this new mockup, I gotta tell you I like it better, and it'll be 100% perfect as long as the layout is symmetrical.
So thanks for the mockup, and please proceed with my blessing. I'll call tomorrow to go over shipping and to see if you have the red shirt or an acceptable substitute.
Thanks again for everything, the bass looks absolutely stunningly gorgeous!!!
-
I am happier with the jack in line too, but the jack wasn't something you were concerned with historically, so I didn't fret over it much on my Aug 28th post.
It must be the angle or some lens distortion, 'cause it looks completely symmetrical to me in person. James did the layout with careful measuring, so I'm sure you'll be pleased with the symmetry.
-
Sounds great, Mica... I figured there was a good chance it was just the picture! Thanks again, I appreciate the careful measuring, and I'm sure I'll be pleased with it!
Hey, on a separate note, I was google-ing perfect pitch (which I don't have, although I've worked on it, and am usually within a half step -or a whole step on a bad day- and I found something interesting. Research indicates that children raised in Asian cultures -where INTONATION is a BIG part of the meaning of words- seem to have a DRAMATICALLY greater likelyhood of having perfect pitch. Also, there is a lot of evidence that children who are exposed to scales, and have the notes READ to them as they're played See, Dee, Eee, Eff, Gee, Aay, Bee, See, etc seem to natually develope perfect pitch. The prevailing viewpoint seems to be that there is a limited cognitive window of opportunity/development...
Just a thought; your youngster come from a musical family... maybe a little training at the right age will help his potential/future musical aptitude.
If you have any interest on the subject, just google perfect pitch, and read up on that Wincapedia online dictionary, there's plenty of info there!
Take care, thanks again for everything, it just looks so phenomenal!!!
-
Perfect pitch is nice, but it can be a bother ... and it certainly cannot replace musical talent! In my experience ...
Singing in an a capella choir, you notice that everyone else goes flat (inevitably!) or sometimes the conductor gives an Ab instead of an A - either way you have to transpose on the spot. This means you're basically singing ? vue, which is always a good musical workout. And you don't have to learn note intervals - you just hit the individual notes. On the flipside of that, I find it difficult to study scales and harmonic progressions. Plus my wife doesn't like my singing (and we usually agree when listening to other people singing).
As a pianist, you may encounter a piano that is tuned far too low and your fingers get completely lost. This is a nightmare situation that I actually ran into once ... luckily they had a second piano, which was tuned just a fraction higher. My own piano is tuned at A=430, which to me is clearly not an Ab. I suppose there is a absolute frequency where things get off my scale - I ran into borderline pianos once or twice where I knew it shouldn't go much further down.
Then again, I can tune by ear, with open strings only. And when I compare two basses that I've tuned independently, they are in tune with eachother (only found that out a couple of months ago, would you believe it). On a guitar, the G and B strings always take some extra time to get right.
-
The title of the thread sez it all. Regarding our conversation earlier, I'd like to how much more it would cost to upgrade to the road case.
My only interest would be in the protection of the instrument -so I'm asking for the cheapest/most simple road case... nothing fancy with regards to whatever options there might be... just the cost of upgrading to something more durable. The durability is my ONLY interest. (What ARE the options, anyway? Extra compartments? Just curious...)
Thanks Mica. Respond here and/or email, whatever works. But, maybe save a copy of the email (if you email) in case it doesn't go thru. Thanks again.
-
Mark,
For less than you could get an Alembic hard case, you could get a Halliburton (http://www.cases2go.com/productview.asp_Q_id_E_28218).
Drug dealer chic!
-
Thanks for the tip, Brad... but I would only get a case from Alembic -so that I know it'll fit the instrument.
-
Mark,
It is confirmed that the balance K 6-string won't fit. The overall length of the case (50) does not leave enough padding fore and aft (Mica measured my bass at 48). For UPS to pay a claim, they'll want 2, minimum, all the way around.
Bradley
-
Since Bass Central sez the bass is almost ready, and I'll be paying the balance soon, and you're probably building a case soon, I'd like to again request a price quote for the price difference between the standard case, and the road case.
I'd like to know approximately how much more it would cost -and weigh- vs. the standard case.
Thanks, Mark
-
Another thing as well: unfortunately, it's looking more likely like I won't be able to come up to pick it up -and to have the electronics fixed on my 8-String. Maybe I will, but it's looking less likely at the moment, for various reasons pertaining to time, money, and schedule.
So there is a better than 50/50 chance I'll end up having you ship it to me. (This was included in Beavers price quote already.)
This prompts me to ask a couple of VERY IMPORTANT questions I want to be ABSOLUTELY CLEAR on. What kind of coverage does Alembic have on the shipping? Specifically, if (imaginary beings forbid) a worse case scenario happened, and it was destroyed or damaged during shipping, would it be covered by Alembic/Alembics' insurance? I want to cover my butt and be prepared for this contingency. I DO NOT have the money to get a replacement (for this bass, which IS a replacement). At this point, it is not yet covered (I don't think) by my Heritage policy. At least, it's not officially on the policy. They have some kind of coverage for, I think, 30 days... giving me time to put a new instrument on the policy... but I'm not clear on whether it would be covered if damaged or destroyed or lost in shipping. Now I'm gonna ask them... but I want to be ABSOLUTELY CLEAR on Alembics policy. My hope is that it would be covered -in such an event- by YOUR insurance (in which case I'd get a replacement WITHOUT Alembic being screwed. But it's certainly best not to assume... in general, and especially in a case like this.
I'd also like to know about alternative shipping options and pricing -especially the recent awesome Dragonfly bass Charles had shipped in the hard core shipping crate. How much extra does that cost? And what should I do when I get it... insist they stick around and wait for me to open it to make sure it's okay? If I open it after they're gone and it's damaged/destroyed/missing, then what... am I screwed?
Please forgive my paranoia, but my lifes experience has taught me that it serves me to ask/anticipate and be prepared for such things.
(Message edited by the 8 string king on August 29, 2007)
-
Hey Mark, you never go to work ?? You have internet at your job ??
;o)
Bass Central send instrument really safely. The only thing you would have to paranoiate (?), is an airplane crash.
Don't worry.... and be HAPPY!
-
The price for a road case depends on the features ordered. Our normal set is with a locking hasp, wheels and an extra handle. These ATA approved cases start at about $350 extra, and aren't discounted through dealers (else they'd be even more!) I don't know the weight, since there are many options. For shipping purposes, it will likely be dimensional weight.
The shipping crate is $185 (the discussion about it is over here (http://club.alembic.com/index.php?topic=3589)). Unless the packaging is damaged, either a carton or a crate, the carrier will not pay a claim. Shipping in a crate will have additional shipping, not covered in Beaver's original quote.
Our insurance does not cover shipping to you. The insurance is through the carrier, or through your own policy. You should contact Heritage and price a policy.
-
Thanks for the prompt response Mica.
I called Matt Hershman at Heritage today, and arranged (and received confirmation via email) to have Elana added to my policy as of 9/7/7 -a few days before Bass Central estimated you'd have it done. The policy will completely cover any issues up to (gasp) complete loss/destruction.
I still want to think about it, and I'll probably call to discuss it with you. At this point, it's simply not clear whether we'll come up to pick it up, or have it shipped. My guess at this point is that there's currently a 75% likelyhood I'll have it shipped, and deal with the Europas electronics another time.
But I'll have to consult with my significant other when she gets back from Burning Man in a few days.
Question... do you have road cases -for the Balance K- ready to go... or would requesting one entail an addition delay/wait/build time for the case?
IF I were to get one, I would want the cheapest/most basic road case.
I have another question. I don't know if it's something you can answer... but here goes. If you can, please tell me, based on your experience, how much would you say the standard case protects an instrument on a 1-10 scale? And how much does the road case protect an instrument on a 1-10 scale. I simply don't have ANY idea; it would help my decision making process if I had some sense of the relative degree of protection afforded by each option. And of course, the weight difference, as well.
Thanks again, Mica. My plan is to make a final decision in a few days; Erica will be home in a few days, and my credit card will go into the next month, so I can put the balance on next months bill -which will be helpful- if I wait a few days. I intend to contact Bass Central tomorrow.
-
Mark. Both my Rogue and my sig made it over the pond in the standard packaging. Delivered by UPS with no issues whatsoever.
Graeme
-
Thanks for the feedback, Graeme, I appreciate it. It REALLY does make me feel a lot better knowing it got all the way over to Scotland without any problem... seeing on howz I'm only the next state over!!!
Oh, and I spoke to Jason today about cases; I'm pleased you have both road cases and standard cases for the Balance K in stock. That'll make things easy for my decision-making process. For some reason, I was thinking like I had to involve Beaver and Bass Central in that decision, but today it dawned on me that they're not involved in shipping, and my only obligation towards THEM is to pay the remainder of my bill, and then pay any additional fee for upgrading the case and/or additional shipping costs to Alembic... so I'm going to pay the remainder to them next week -when the bill will go on to the NEXT months credit card statement- and then I'll talk to Erica and decide whether we're going to come get it or have it shipped -in which case I'll promptly come to a decision regarding whether I get a standard or road case and/or a crate.
Oh, Pierre, sorry, I forgot about your question. No, I don't do internet at work; all my postings are from home.
-
We'd spoke a little on this before, and based on feedback and comments from Joey, Tom, and the Bobs, I'm interested in having the FatBoy pickup for the Bridge, and (it's) the AXY (isn't it?) pickup for the neck. This is assuming they're the same size and cost and can be switched. I'd want the wires to be long enough that I could swap the pickups and experiment with their sound.
So I'd like to know if switching the bridge pickup to a FatBoy is extra, and also how much a second AXY and a second Fatboy would be, 'cause, if I go for it, I'll probably follow the advice and swap them, and then, once I know what each sounds like on each pickup, I might well order another pickup. Joey seems to be gung ho on both, but it seems like there is agreement that they sound better on the bridge pickup.
Of course, I'm assuming this wouldn't in any way take away from the Coco Bolo sound that this bass is all about. I can't imagine it would, but it's best not to assume... maybe the FatBoys emphasize Coco Bolo's weak frequencies and fail to capture it's strong frequencies... (or maybe, hopefully, that was just nonsense-talk!)
-
The nice thing about the AXY/FatBoy decision is that it's completely reversable. I'll ask Valentino to get you the pricing details tomorrow when he returns.
You'll have to listen to the pickups yourself to see what you prefer. Everyone has their own opinion, including me, but in the end, you're the one playing and listenting, so no matter what any of us say, it has to be the right sound for you. Once you get to listening, you'll know which you prefer.
-
Thanks Mica. I'll look forward to seeing the pricing options.
First of all, there simply isn't any room in my mind for doubt that, if it's an Alembic pickup, it sounds great. So I'm sure both the AXYs and the FatBoys sound awesome. There simply isn't any other possibility.
Club members clearly show enthusiasm for both; and is seems like there are strong opinions that if one doesn't go for dual FatBoys, one can get a lot out of mixing a FatBoy with an AXY, and swapping them to experiement and gain there own perspective.
My intuition is that I should get one for the bridge, with the wiring long enough so that I can swap the 2 pickups to experiment.
At this point, my plan is to ask for an AXY for the neck pickup and an Fatboy for the bridge. This assumes equal cost of/for pickups. If the FatBoy is more, I'll have to think about it.
Blah blah blah, you said you'll get Val to get me pricing info tomorrow, so I'll look at it then!
-
Again, as this bass is nearing completion, I'd like to remind you that I'd like to have the FatBoy pickup for the bridge pickup... and with wire length on BOTH pickups long enough that I can swap them to experiment -should I choose.
I never got pricing info on this option; I'm assuming the cost is the same or about the same... but as I don't know, this may be an incorrect assumption. If there is little/no price difference, I'll stick with this plan... but if there is a big enough price difference, then I might have to withdraw the request.
I would like to pay the balance of my deposit fairly soon, and so, I'd like to have the pricing info on this so I can complete the transaction without having to call up and modify it afterwards (which would be a bigger pain for Bass Central and Alembic than for me).
So please, at your convenience, let me know how much extra (if any) the FatBoy pickup for the bridge costs, so I can either withdraw the request (or not) and pay the final bill in whole without later adjusting it.
Thanks again, Mark
-
Mica, Shim's bass has inspired me to again reconsider upgrading my electronics, which I've thought about before, but rejected due to expense.
I'm interested (maybe, depending on cost, and whether or not it's possible) in Shim's electronics -minus the LEDs.
Now it may well be the case that it's simply NOT an option at this point. If so, that's fine with me; I was explicitly advised that changes after the finalized order are (A) subject to your discretion; and (B) sometimes just not possible. I WILL/WOULD BE very happy with the controls I've specified... Europa electronics with the upgraded 3-position Q switch.
And I don't want to slow production any further.
So, that said... I ask you... is it an option at this point for me to get Shim's electronics?
If not, fine. If so, how much, and how much of an effect/delay on production would it entail?
My understanding is that I'd have to pay $400 retail for the upgrade back up to Signature, $500 retail more for (one set of) bass & treble knobs, and then, $150 retail for the second Q switch to be upgraded to 3-positions... $1050 retail... is this correct?
Again, I'm not sure if I can even afford this. But I've been wondering/thinking about it, and seeing the mockups for Shim's bass pushed me over the edge into actually asking.
Again, if it's NOT doable for whatever reason, that's FINE, as it's something I can stop thinking about; but IF it's an option, then I'm asking for a price confirmation, and an estimate of the effect it would have, if any, on production & delivery time.
PS, I'm prepared to call Beaver and pay for the peghead bevel & omega anytime you or he wants. If this latest thing is something we do, I would be able to put out for that right away too.
I'm sure you want to protect the interests of you and your dealers, and I'm ready to pay for any&all additions beyond my deposit at any point that you or he sees fit.
Thanks again for everything, Mark
-
Mark,
Mr. Felton gets a lot of money from us Alembic freaks, doesn't he?!
THe 'Ho.....
-
At this point, there is very little likelihood I'll upgrade the electronics -assuming it's an option. I replaced my dying guitar amp, and upgraded a little -but it drained whatever fundage I would have had.
Oh well. I needed the amp, and the Europa electronics are very versatile -especially with the upgraded 3-position Q switch.
With the Coco Bolo and the awesome neck, this bass will rock the house -even if the electronics are merely Europa electronics!
-
I'm marking this as something you don't want based on your last message. Let me know if I've misunderstood.
-
Yes, ma'am, I'll have to be content with the Europa electronics with the 3-position Q (0/6/9).
My mate and I put in a bid for our first house today... if it becomes a deal, I won't have ANY additional money for ANYTHING for... probably quite a while.
I'd love fancier electronics... but I know from experience the Europa setup is VERY versatile -and this is, after all, a replacement for my old Elan-Plus.
The main theme of this bass will be the great sound & appearance of Coco Bolo... and with the other features & upgrades from my Elan, I'm certain I won't be disappointed with it... I won't be disappointed with the Europa electronics package -especially with the more versatile 3-position Q.
-
Hi Mica!
Regarding our recent discussion several minutes ago on Friday the 13th, I'm writing this post to remind you that I'm sorta flaking/waffling/flip-flopping on the electronics thing.
I would like quotes on several different things, at your convenience.
(A) How much would it be to upgrade to Shim's electronics... (Signature electronics with 3-position Qs for each pickup and a MASTER(single) pair of bass and treble KNOBS?
(B) How much would it be to upgrade to what I just described with a (single) pair of bass & treble TOGGLES instead. (Like Toby's custom Rogue, but with 3-position Qs.)
(C) How much would it be to do the Series (I) prep -with the standard arrangement required (extra -relative to what I've already ordered) continuous wood backplates?
(D) How much would it be to do the Series (I) prep -with the minimum necessary continueous wood backplates (2 instead of 3, but/and having the battery -which I'd want- under the... sound card or circuit card, or whatever you called it, that your Dad isn't fond of?)
The ONLY way I could (gasp) afford (by which I mean, go further in debt on the credit card) any of these options would be to sacrifice the Omega cutout and dual bevel currently specified in my work order... now, for all I know, this may have already been done... if so, it's all cool, and there's no point answering these question, as there is no possibility I could consider these options on top of the Mini-Omega and bevel.
But -as much as it would kill me to add more to the price tag- if the Mini-Omega and bevel HAVEN'T been committed to yet, I'd like to get this info -because, if it's only a couple hundred extra dollars, it would be worth it to consider these (basically two) options.
I'd LOVE to have Shim or Toby style electronics... Signature electronics, with (only) a single set of bass & treble controls (knobs or toggles) would be awesome. If it only cost a couple/several hundred extra, it would be something I could/should consider.
Similarily, if the cost to prep my most awesome second custom for Series I electronics only cost a couple/several hundred extra -so that I could someday, when I have more money, get it retrofitted for Series I electronics- it would (also) be something I could/should consider.
I think you thought the Series I prep was $550 more minus $200 for the hollowness I already have plus $X for 1 or 2 extra continueous woodplates?
I think Shim's electronics would be an extra $1050 retail ($400 retail to upgrade back to Signature from Europa, $150 extra to upgrade back the second Q switch to 3 positions, and $500 extra for a single pair of bass & treble knobs -and $400 extra for a pair of bass & treble toggles instead of the knobs).
Please confirm/correct/enlighten me at your convenience. I'll be able to give a a decision right away when I see the figures. It's in the ballpark of 50/50 whether I stick with the current plan -or implement one or both upgrades. Price/cost IS the biggest determiner.
Thanks again Mica, congratulations again, and have a great weekend!
PS, if it happened to be the case that the body was glued on already, I/we could (maybe) consider adding additional pinstripes to make the body extra thick for the Series prep -if needed. And again, if it happens to be the case that it's too late, that's fine, it'll be awesome regardless. Thanks again!!!
-
Hey Mica, please do me a favor and give me a heads up here if/when you email me the pricing on the options above (assuming you send it to me by email -as opposed to just posting it here- which I think is what you said you're going to do).
That way I'll know if it doesn't go thru for some reason, so I can get back to you. (I checked before writing this, of course, and it wasn't there at that point.)
I know that the Serie I prep option would require a slightly thicker body -which is a change you'd need to know about and which will delay construction until you know (unless, of course, it's too late already, and the body has already been glued up).
I should give you a definite answer on which if any of those options I want to go with within 24 hours of getting the pricing options.
Thanks Mica! And again, the Coco looks great!!!
-
Oh yeah, it's conceivable that I might combine some of those options above (although more likely I'd do either/or -due to expense).
I'd love to get Signature Electronics with a master set of bass & trebles knobs or toggles (and 3 position Qs) prepped for Series I electronics. In the unlikely event I were to do this (due to expense) I'd almost certainly go for the toggles over the knobs -both to keep it cheaper, and to require less space.
-
Hey Mica, I know you're busy...
Just a reminder... when you get me the price info on the cost for the prep for Series I and on the additional cost to upgrade back up to Signature electronics with a second 3-position Q, and ONE SET of bass & treble controls (I'd like quotes for knobs & toggles -to know the difference in price) I'll get back to you right away.
I know you need to know whether to make the bass even thicker for the Series I prep, and can't proceed until a decision is made.
I'm curious whether 1 or 2 backplates is standard with the Signature electronics. I looked at different basses in Showcase, and some Balance K Signature basses had only 1 electronics cavity, while others had 2. I'm guessing that 2 is standard, but one can request only 1?
This is important because, if I were to do the prep for Series I, I'd insist on continueous wood backplates, and you'd want to include pricing for that. If 2 backplates are standard, then I'd need to know how much extra it would be for a 3rd (continueous wood) backplate); if only 1 is standard, then I'd need to know how much extra for 1 additional, and 2 additional plates. I'd probably prefer only the minimal 2 -even though your dad doesn't like the option- just due to cost.
Again, no hurry. I may prefer (or just need) to stick with the current plan. Or I may choose to go with the prep for Series I, the upgrade to Signature plus B&T controls, or both. Price will determine my choice -and I'll likely be able to do it quickly and conclusively once I have the pricing info.
Thanks again for everything!
Make Mine ALEMBIC!!!
-
Well, I'm one happy camper!!! ):
Me n my gal bought our first house today... which is obviously a BIG moment, and quite cool.
Another cool thing is that I found $400 dollars while I was packing things up!!! And it IS going towards my Custom-in-progress!!!
Yeah, this is a really good thing, 'cause it makes it MUCH more likely I'll be able to do at least 2 out of the three options I'd asked you about. I know I can upgrade to the Signature electronics and get the second Q switch upgraded to a 3-position switch for the same cost that the peghead Omega and bevel would set me back. And I'm hoping that $400 would cover or almost cover the cost of the Series I prep OR the cost of a set of bass & treble controls. Depending on the costs, I might actually be able to get all 3 of these options!!! I'll have to wait and see, but I can't wait to get the price quote for these options at this point!
It would be SO COOL if I could get Shim-style or Toby-style electronics -Signature PLUS a set of bass & treble controls (with 3-position Qs)- that was prepped for Series upgrade down the road! That would be incredibly awesome!!!
So I'm crossing my fingers and toes, and patiently and hopefully waiting!
It's all good! Whatever I get will be awesome. The Europa electronics with a 3-position Q are awesome... but having individual filters & Qs for each pickup really actualizes the full potential of a 2-pickup instrument -and being able to convert to Series at some point when I have more money would be incredibly awesome.
Yeah, when I ordered this, I strongly considered getting a Series I... it actually would have been $100 LESS... but that would have had NO OPTIONS... no Coco Bolo, no BTC(s), no Ebony or Mahogany neck laminates, no continueous wood backplates, no contours... and I really wanted to have these things. Having Coco Bolo, and at least 1 Ebony neck laminate were essential things I wanted.
I'm really excited, at this point, 'cause based on what you thought the cost was for the Series I prep, I'm pretty optimistic I can probably pull this off by diverting the cost of the peghead Omega and bevel to a Signature upgrade, and kicking in the cash I found to pay for the Series Prep... then it's just an issue of the cost of a set of bass & treble knobs or toggles, and whether I could get all 3 options -or just 2 out of 3!
I'm SO EXCITED!!! (And I just can't hide it!) I'm excited about the house, and about this bass... and the fact that I can actually GET it now... since I was told not to spend any big money until we have the keys!!!
-
Hi Mica!
Moments ago, I posted confirmation on the main build tread that -bassed on the electronics upgrade quote you emailed me- I WANT TO UPGRADE MY EUROPA ELECTRONICS TO SIGNATURE ELECTRONICS WITH 3-POSITION Q SWITCHES AND A (single) PAIR OF BASS & TREBLE KNOBS!
Thus my electronics will have 6 knobs (Volume, Balance, Neck Filter, Bridge Filter, Bass, and Treble) and 2 toggles (the 2 3-position Q switches).
Here are my preferences -in order of preference. I will refer to the mock-ups you did for Shim... but my body is a Balance K... and his is a little wider... so I don't know how applicable his options/mockups will be on the Balance K body.
First of all, I'm flexible here, and just want it to be mellow for Alembic. I'll tell you what I want, but will respect whatever constraints you lay down. Let me just communicate my preferences, and we'll see what works.
My FIRST preference would be what I described in Control Layout in Shim's FTC thread -in my post 366. The layout would be just like that -minus the LEDs, which my bass won't have. This setup consists of 2 parallel rows of 3 knobs -with (the row of) (N) filter, volume, & (B) filter closer to the C string, and the other row -bass, balance, & treble- closer to the edge of the body. The 2 Q switches would be in-between the 2 middle (volume & balance) knobs and the knobs to either side. This seems pretty clear in the picture/graphic representation.
You'll note that, in this picture, I have the two middle knobs in each row (the volume & balance) slightly farther away from each other than the other knobs are... but they could all be parallel. Either way would be cool. The biggest thing is that I'd prefer it be perfectly symetrical -if possible.
If not, my second favorite layout would be your mockup for Shim in your post 4038 (again in the same thread). This is virtually the same thing -only the 2 rows of 3 knobs aren't perfectly parallel.
Ideally, in any even, the top row would be symetrical, with the (master) volume in the middle and the 2 filters to either side; then, the bottom row would have the 3 knobs with center detents (bass, balance, treble).
But if, for any reason, there are constraints about which knobs can be where, just tell me what they are, and I'll communicate my preferences within the bounds of those constraints.
My third preference would be your post 4044 -basically the same setup with just slightly different angles for the lines of the rows.
My fourth preference would be your first post for Shim -your post 4032- with the knobs in that pattern, but the two toggles within the 6 knobs... basically the same pattern I've already described -but just rotated at an angle.
At your convenience, let me know if these are doable. Ideally, my first preference is no problem. If so, it's a done deal. I really like the first preference, as it's the most intuitive setup; it would be completely symetrical in appearance, and almost completely symetrical in function -the exceptions being the bass & treble controls.
Thanks again for everything, Mica! I really appreciate your patience, support, and world-class service!!!
Mark
P.S. I'm going to attempt to copy the graphic illustration of my ideal control configuration from Shim's thread... here's the attempt:
..........NECK...............BASS
..........FILT................CONT
..........KNOB...............KNOB
.................................
.......................N..........
.......................Q..........
.................................
......MAST.......................BLEN
......VOLU.........LED.........CONT
......KNOB.......................KNOB
.................................
.......................B..........
.......................Q..........
.................................
..........BRID...............TREB
..........FILT................CONT
..........KNOB..............KNOB
Looks like it worked! So this is my ideal/preferred setup -for reference!
-
Now I noted that -in your post 4041- you responded that my post didn't take the jack into account... but your mockup in the prior post (post 4038) really didn't make it look like it would be an issue... if you just move the row of 3 knobs closest to the strings towards the tailpiece a little, then it becomes just like what I posted above... and it doesn't look to me like there would be any issue with the jack... but you're the expert -so tell me what you think.
Again, the setup above is my preferred ideal... but if there is any practical issue actualizing it, I'd ask you what modification you'd suggest... to get closest to it while addressing the issues (assuming there are any).
Thanks again, Mark
(Message edited by the 8 string king on May 07, 2007)
-
As you know, I've already spec'd a comprehensive list of details regarding my 6-String custom -in the E-mail confirming my purchase on 12/12/06.
That list covers virtually everything. There are just a couple little things that've popped up. Very short list.
(1) Most importantly, I saw a thread recently that showed an Alembic tailpiece/bird that was significantly off-center. (In Showcase, in Pierreyves Stanley Clarke Signature Deluxe 2004 thread.) I don't recall ever seeing noticing another Alembic with an off-center tailpiece like that, and I assume it's a rare anomoly? But one of my character flaws is that I'm picky about stuff like that, and, even with the BTC, it'd bother the heck out of me if the center didn't like up with the join-line (even though it will hopefully be invisible or near-invisible). So please keep this in mind. Now I would really like/love/prefer the bird -which is what I've spec'd. However, if you're not certain you can nail it, I'd ask to switch to the block -which I'd still want to be centered too, but which would not be a noticable if it were slightly off-center (since it doesn't have a little pointer in the center). Also, I'd really like it if we could put 5 screw holes in the tailpiece, if it's not too much trouble; it would give me a lot of emotional security.
(2) I think I'd like to have that ferrite bead thing... the thing that reduces interference from cell-phones and stuff. Is that extra?
(3) As mentioned in the original and subsequent E-mails, I'm interested in the welded palladium Switchcraft jacks. Are these extra, and if so, how much? Depending on what you tell me about the Omega/reach issue, I may switch to a Balance K Point body or a Europa (if still an option) and apply the $300 from the Omega to a Switchcraft and/or side-mounted jack.
That's pretty much it!
-
1. The tailpiece placement entirely depends on playability and its position is determined by the person doing the setup for playability. I'm certain that we won't nail it - if you look closely at the tailpieces, they are not perfectly symmetrical, they are rarely dead-center. It's rare for them to be as off as it was on the bass you refer to (which I note in my reply on that thread).
Here's something to consider - if the strings are placed correctly, they will be straight. If you center the tailpiece to the joint on the BTC, and the strings come in crooked, that would look more distracting.
I feel that the minor amount most tailpieces are off center shouldn't be a concern in your case - especially since you are bookmatching to center and you've requested straight grain near the center to make the joint less visible. If you like the overall look with the bird shape, then go for it.
If you don't want the point indicator, then choose either the bar shape (like Rogue) or the half-moon (like Epic).
2. There is a ferrite bead installed in every non-Series Alembic, so that's already a given. It's primary function is to make it possible to use wireless. Sorry, your cell phone will still interfere, so don't wear it while playing.
3. The welded palladium jacks are the side-mounted jacks we use. If your order has a side-mounted jack, you will automatically get one. If you are using a face-mounted jack, they are welded solid silver contacts. Both versions are awesome.
-
(1.) I DO like the look of the bird overall... got's the classic Alembic look I want this bass to have. So, bassed on your comments, I'd say lets stick with it.
(2.) The ferrite bead comes standard, but it's function is to give me the option of wireless... okay, cool!
(3.) I got the impression on some previous thread that the welded palladium jacks were a new option that is a big upgrade from whatever else you use; but if this is not so, if the face-mounted jack is comparable or virtually as good, then I'd probably just stick with what I have, to keep it simple (which is having the jack on the front, for the sole reason that it's less expensive... $200 retail, I think?).
So I guess at this point, I'll just stick with the plan, unless for some reason something would cause you/the builders to think that the tailpiece would be SIGNIFICANTLY off-center. In the absence of any reason to expect this, let's just stick with the bird.
Thanks for getting back to me so quickly, so I can mentally rest in this area, and not think/worry about it any more!
-
Now that I think about it, however, I REALLY much prefer to have 5 screws instead of just 3. Now it might be the case that it would be easy/easier with the block tailpiece, but harder/impractical/impossible/not recommended with the bird. In such a case, I'd prefer the block with 5 screws.
-
hello folks!!
May have a translation in french pleeeeaaaase ?
-
We've made literally thousands of basses with 3 tailpiece anchor screws. It will have to be custom milled for you to include more. What are you trying to achieve with the additional screws? I ask only because it's not something that comes up often. In recent memory, only Bob's custom Rogue had more than three anchor screws. Just so I don't misundertand what you're asking for, the block usually refers to the bridge block which is the chunk of brass that the bridge mounts to. This is attached to the body with one wood screw. This is a bar tailpiece:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/34901.jpg)
This is a half-moon tailpiece:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/34902.jpg)
This is a bird tailpiece:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/34903.jpg)
-
That's funny, I don't even remember asking for that. I did ask for two in the sustain block, but that was only because I was planning to try some much lighter blocks.
I just don't recall having any concern about the tailpiece coming off, and certainly have never heard of such a case. I'm not sure there's any point here, Mark.
-Bob
-
Mica, I'm going to be perfectly honest with you. My interest in having 5 screws... you could maybe sorta call it paranoia -which is probably a little too strong (but in the general ballpark)- or perhaps more just a certain mentality... an overbuild mentality. 3 screws doesn't seem like much. If one of the 3 is ever comprimised for any reason, the pressure on the remaining two...
Please don't be insulted. I know Alembic... I know you folks know your stuff, and I strongly suspect you've most likely never even had one only 3-screw-related problem with a tailpiece. It's just to cater to my not-necessarily-justified ideosyncratic quasi-paranoid concern. (But no one charged me a catering to my 'not-necessarily-justified quasi-paranoid concerns' fee on my quote, did they?)
So lookie here. The request for more than 3 screws was predicated on the assumption that it would be very simple to accomodate, and would involve little more than the cost of a couple extra screws and a minute or two of time. If this is an incorrect assumption (as my sometimes dense/thick self is currently getting the impression it is...?) then please withdraw the request, and I'll just get over it.
While I'd feel a little better if my preferred bird (or alternatively, the bar) had 5 screwholes like my Europa or 4 screws like Bob's Rogue or Jeff's Dire Wolf, I know Alembic'll give me an instrument that'll most likely never have an issue, and that'd you'd take care of if it did.
Let's cut to the chase. It would make me feel better to have 4 or 5 screws -BUT ONLY IF IT'S SOMETHING THAT'S EASY FOR ALEMBIC TO DO. I realize the pricing structure for your instruments assumes certain standards, and any/each deviation may decrease your profitability. I DON'T WANT THAT.
So let's be clear. I know full well that whatever you get me will be awesome, that there's little likelyhood of any problem -due to your awesome standards and quality control- and that any problem that did occur would be fixed.
I get the impression it might be an imposition, if so, consider the request withdrawn.
I DO NOT want Alembic experiencing anything other than smooth sailing with this custom. This bass is pretty much all standard Alembic options, and it'll be awesome with those options.
Please be clear, ANY and ALL additional REQUESTS I've made are MINOR DETAILs subject to your discretion predicated on the assumption that any such details entail little to no effort on Alembic's part.
I'm CERTAIN I'll be 100% satisfied with the bass with the specifications already listed on the intitial order. This is my main issue. The second is making sure it's a good experience for Alembic.
The 5 screws, and the control configuration -which thread I'm headed to next- are a distant 3rd concern, much less important than the 1st two things!
(I'm not going to bring up this topic again.)
-
I wanted to understand why you wanted more screws than we've used on most of the instruments we've made (including Trip's 8-string (http://www3.alembic.com/img/trip_hardware.jpg)).
I can't think of a single tailpiece anchor screw failing since I started working here in 1987. I've never run across a repair to an instrument because of a failed anchor in the files as I've researched histories. I hope this helps put your mind at ease with over 13,000 successful 3-anchor tailpieces tailpieces.
It's easy to say that adding a couple of screws equals a couple of minutes of time, you're correct only about the installation of the tailpiece. Someone still needs to machine it.
Imposition? That's not the characterization I meant to convey. Even something that seems like a minor detail (remember our conversation about bookmatching the top and not the accent laminates to center?) can have consequences as far as how much time is needed to address it. It's just custom, and that's waht we're here for.
On the Dire Wolf (http://www3.alembic.com/img/inst/13470_curveytailL.jpg) tailpiece, there's a practical and decorative reason for four anchor screws. Note the space between the D string retainer and the top edge of the tailpiece is too small to hold the screw. One off-center screw would look cock-eyed, so four it is.
I'll find out how much additional time is needed to mill the holes and let you know. It may be small, and if it's within your budget and makes you feel better, then it's probably a good idea.
-
Thanks Mica, I appreciate it, and no, you didn't convey any sense of imposition. But it's something that I want to be proactive about on my part.
I want to stick with the bird, but I do like the bar; it might be the case that you can't do the bird, only the bar? Or that doing 5 screws on the bar would be x$ but 5x$ on the bird?
Since you're looking into this for me, it might be good to find out IF 5-screws could be done on BOTH the Bird and Bar, and then, if the cost/price would be the same. My intuition is that the Bar might be quicker/easier/cheaper to to than the Bird (assuming the Bird can be done without any issues -in the first place).
Thanks again.
-
If possible, assuming there is no price difference, I would prefer pickups with ALEMBIC on them to ones without Alembic;
And I'd prefer ones with ALEMBIC in gold as opposed to ones without (again, assuming they're not more $).
And I'd also prefer tuners with the A of Alembic on the back.
Thanks!
-
Sorry, the 6-string pickups are not available with gold stamping. The name appears engraved on the 6-string pickups.
We prefer the tuners with the A on the back, but as you're following Shim's thread, you can see they are not always available. Most of the time, they are.
(Message edited by mica on April 23, 2007)
-
I'm busted!!!
Yes, that was a Shim reference -which I tried to discreetly sneak in!
Yes, like Shim, I'd prefer the Alembic A on the Gotohs... but it's no biggie... I know they're the same!!! I'd PREFER the Alembic A version -if available. If not, I assure you you'll hear no sniveling from me on the subject.
As far as the pickups... well, if it's not an option... then it's not an option.
Thanks, Mica, you folks are the best. I'm glad I have the benefit of the my previous experience. I do not have even the slightest bit of doubt that my replacement 6-string will be utterly awesome, and that I'll adore it. It's like it's already done, and in front of me right now. It'll be done, and it'll be done when it's done, and it'll be great, and I'll love it! And life will go on until then!
BUT HEY, WHY SHOULDN'T 6-STRING FOLKS HAVE THOSE WONDERFUL PICKUPS WITH ALEMBIC ON THEM??? (Just for the benefit of folks down the road!!!)
But seriously, it's no biggie... not even a smallie!!!
Thanks again for everything! Take care, Mark.
-
We don't have an injection mold for the 5-6 string sized pickups yet. It's something that we plan on purchasing, but it won't be real soon (they are even more expensive than some Alembics!). Without an ABS plastic shell, I can't get the gold hot stamping done. I've seem people paint inside the engraved part, we don't offer that service.
Someday, you can get a shiny new set of pickups when the gold stamped ones are available
-
Maybe by the time I upgrade the electronics to Series I... assuming I can afford to do the prep for Series I!!!
Thanks Mica, hope you TWO (three... ya know what I mean!) have a great weekend!
-
Hi gang! I'm just taking advantage of the FTC medium to post my Coco Bolo request details/specification here for mutual reference.
There actually isn't anything new here, at this point. I'm just going to copy the previous info I'd E-mailed Valentino on 12/12.
(Excerpt copy of E-mail sent to Valentino on 12/12)
In the e-mail on 12/1/6, I gave a list of 10 specific examples to use as guidelines for what I?m looking for. Now, I?ve amended and shortened the list to 5 examples. I went over the various threads, and found 5 examples that?ll give you a perfect idea of what I want. Here they are: my VERY FAVORITE ?EVER- Alembic coco bolo sample can be seen in the FTC thread ?Matt?s Coco Bolo Stanley Clarke?, posts 2059 & 2147 (and others) show this awesome example of what I?d like with respects to figuring, ?concentric-ness? (the little swirl on the lower body edge), and color, having lines in the middle (to disguise a BTC) and awesome swirls and figuring. This example is an unsurpassed example of what I?d like. I?d flip if you could get me something like this. A very close second is found if you open the (FTC) ?archive through December 31, 2003?, and look at ?John?s Coco Bolo Skylark? ?and this example is actually BTC?d. I love this example, and it stands second only to the previous mention/example. My third favorite example of coco bolo on an Alembic bass is also on this same page: see the FRONT of ?Barry?s Custom Coco Bolo Bass??I love the color/range of color, I love the figuring, and most especially, I LOVE the little concentric pattern on the lower body edge, by the electronics? IT?S SO AWESOME!!! I REALLY would LOVE to have something like this on my bass!!! Finally, tied for 4 and 5, are Rick?s Dragon Wing and Graham?s Rogue ?both of which are on the main/current FTC page. I love the figuring and color/color range on both these basses, and both look like they have liney figuring in the center to disguise the BTC; and they each have a little ?concentric-ness?? Graham?s bass has it below the electronics (it?s not quite as awesome as Barry?s) and Rick has a little of it in the smaller horn. By the way, I believe I rated ?Thunder and Lightning? as my favorite example. I would now revise that and place it after the 5 examples I just described. These 5 examples should give you a pretty clear idea of what I?d like. I?m figuring that since I?m getting coco on front and rear, I hopefully should be able to get some concentric patterns somewhere!
(That completes the excerpt/E-mail)
I've VERY THOROUGHLY gone through most if not all of the FTC and showcase threads looking for references of finished Coco Bolo Alembics... and I stand behind these 5 examples as being perfect examples of what I'm looking for, with respects to figuring, concentrics, and colors. Hopefully this will be sufficient to help to select/narrow down wood choices! I'm not too picky... I'll defer to your experience/recommendations... this is just to give you the clearest idea of what I'm looking for. I'd be absolutely ecstatic to get Coco Bolo like any of these 5 fabulous Alembics -especially the first 2... but they're ALL AWESOME!
Just one more time, I want to emphasize the single most important detail is to have the figuring disguise the BTC (on both the front and the back) as much as possible... to make sure the center line isn't noticable... to make sure there isn't side-to-side figuring that doesn't line up as it crosses the center line. This is why having liney figuring at least in the middle seems like the way to go. Okay, I won't say it again!!! Just had to say it one more time, since it's the most important thing!
Thanks again for building the best bass(es) in the world!
(P.S. Graham, please forgive me for referring to your most awesome and inspiring Rogue as less awesome than Barry's... it was just in the context of describing MY personal subjective preferences AND focusing on THAT specific detail... the concentricity detail of that bass. Your Rogue is in fact one of my top 5 Alembic Coco Bolo basses ever!)
(Message edited by the 8 string king on December 27, 2006)
-
Hey Mark. I'm honoured that you've put my rogue up there alongside Rick and Barry's examples. Ricks DW is incredible and Barry's was one of the examples I used when I spoke to Mica about patterns. You can rest assured that she'll choose something stunning for you.
Graeme
-
I'm sure she will!!! And I can't wait. Since Elana -that's her name, since she's a replacement for an Elan- will have Coco Bolo BTC'd on both front and back, they'll have plenty of surface area to have awesome figuring in!
I'm really hoping they come up with something like the front/top(s) of the 1st two basses I listed. The Coco Bolo Stanley Clarke, and the awesome Coco Bolo Skylark blow me away. I like the figuring on the Stanley Clarke a little better, but the BTC and the features of the figuring on the Skylark... it just doesn't get any better (in my eyes)!!!
-
Another example of figuring I really like -specifically concentric-ness is Ken's 90's 5-String Coco Bolo Distillate in the Showcase section.
Looking at the left side of the picture, I really love the concentric patterns on the horn, and how the concentric circles on either side of the waist drop off and then pick back up on the other side.
I just can't wait to see what'chu folks come up with for me! I know it'll be awesome!
-
I'm dying to see what Bob's come up with!
(But, I'm sure you know that, so PLEASE, take your time, and post some pictures ONLY when your busy schedule allows!)
-
Bob is gearing up for a large run of bodies. There are little stacks of wood on every available table in the shop, so in a few days, you'll hopefully see what's been cooking.
-
hey Graeme
I told you that you had one of the best looking basses on the planet (apart from mine that is!)
She is truly beautiful, and you should be very proud of her
G
-
While browsing thru the thread for the awesome March Custom of the Month, I discovered the link to A Fitting Tribute...
The BACK is a PERFECT example of what I DON'T WANT/LIKE... specifically how there is an obvious line in the middle, and how the figuring (really the coloring of the figuring) obviously and abruptly is different (changes -from light to dark) as it crosses the center line.
Disclaimers: I'm sure y'all already get this -but when I came across this perfect example of what I DON'T LIKE, paranoid rascal that I am, I felt obliged to share it as a reference; that said, it's a gorgeous instrument... it just goes against my personal aesthetic preferences!
-
Because of the carved top, all Tributes look less symmetrical.
Here is a piece that looks like it will suit your tastes:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/38619.jpg)
This is just roughly chalked in, slightly oversized. We'd also angle it slightly to get the central lines closer to parallel.
-
THANKS A BUNCH, MICA, IT LOOKS AWESOME!!!
Uhm... is that piece the back, or the front flipped over? It looks like there's a horn there, so I'm guessing it's one or the other.
It looks beautiful, and it looks like I'll probably have some nice concentrics near the controls -as well as the lines I requested in the middle, to disguise the BTC.
Have y'all decided if I'm going to have the front and back made from the same board or not? Just curious, as stated before, I leave this decision in your capable hands.
Thanks again for this picture, I've really been jone-zing to see this!!!
-
This is a piece of lumber. I traced the larger body half so you could see if you liked the piece as much as we thought you might. I'll ask Bob to get the board resawn so you can view the bookmatches. I think this will be thick enough to get both the top and back cut, but I'll let you know after it goes through the bandsaw.
-
Mark, I can't wait to see the bookmatch. Looks like itz gonna B AWESOME! Drool, slurp, drooooollll.......
The Ho....
-
Thanks, Ho!
Mica, the more I look at this, the more I'm sold on this piece of wood!
However, as I look at it, I'm trying to envision what portions of it would look best being cut out for the top/back.
The tentative rough outline you traced looks pretty good. It looks like it would be easy for you to line up the lines in the center to disguise the BTC. But I think it might look even better (not sure) if the outline were moved up to the top (in addition to being slightly angled) so I could get more/all/most of that really cool big eye on my top -and also more concentrics on the outside.
For clarification, I'm referring to the concentric-ish large figure more or less in the dead center of the board in the picture. To the right are two adjacent little eyes I love, and also a single eye in the horn. I can't have it all, so I think we'll probably have to sacrifice the little eye in the horn when we angle it. I think I'd like it if the outline (of the horn) were lifted up to the upper (in the picture) edge of the board, and also the rest of the outline. An easier way of describing this idea might be to imagine you just shaved off an inch or two off the lower edge of the board, and lifted/angled the horn up a bit.
As I look at that board, I see 3 sections. As you go left to right (or right to left) there is a really cool section in the middle, that has the big eye in the center, and the smaller eyes to the right, and the eye in the horn. Above and below this really cool section are two mainly liney areas. Now I think I'd like to get a little more (maybe as much as possible -without sacrificing the disguised BTC objective) of this really cool area on my top/back. And again, this looks like it would also get me a little more concentric figuring by where the electronics would be (and on the mirror side).
I'd like to see a trace-line outline for what I've described, at your convenience. I tried to make a little outline-thing out of paper, but it was half-assed.
Alternatively, another thing that intrigues me would be to FLIP the outline, that is, to imagine the UPPER edge of the board (in the picture) being the center line/line of symettry. I like the pinch/pinching that's around the date 4/10/07 that you have chalked in on the board... it looks neat. The only concern would be if that figuring wouldn't line up right... BUT it looks like the fingerboard and or truss rod plate and/or pickups would be there, so it wouldn't be an issue -at least for the top. That way, you could get most of the really cool area in the middle on my top, and what you have as the outer edge would become the center, and what you have as the center would be the outer edge... and it looks like it would be full of concentrics!!! The lines on the top seem more parallel to begin with.
So in summary: (1) what you've come up with is great; however, I think I might prefer (2) shaving an inch or two off the lower inch of the board and pushing the outline up (and slightly angling the horn up a little) OR (3) FLIPPING the outline so that the UPPER edge of the board is the center instead of the lower.
At your convenience, if you could provide pictures with these outlines traced, I could probably tell you right away which I like best.
Another thought is -assuming the board is thick enough to do front and back- do it one way on the front, and the other way on the back.
I'm sorta thinking that the last option -(3)- looks like it might be the coolest -for the top. It seems like that option might get the biggest amount of the really cool area on my top.
I DO wanna make sure I get the full 1/4th of an inch thickness of Coco Bolo on each side!!!
Thanks again, Mica, I'm really excited, and this makes me feel better, what with the problem on my other bass and all!!!
-
If I use the top side of the image as the center line, there is a disinctive pinch in the grain that will not conform to your specification for straight grain at the center.
We will be slicing and sanding this chunk in the next few days, so I'll post the bookmatches and some outlines for you when it's ready.
-
Thanks Mica, I'll look forward to seeing it!
First of all, it's a great looking board, and I'm sure whatever we come up with will look great. So I'm happy, excited, optimistic, and worry-free!
Now what you think is the biggest part of the equation, and I'll defer to what you think is the best way to achieve my objective(s).
At this point, as I've had more time to look and contemplate, this is what I think I'd like to do -subject to your approval.
(I definitely want the top and back to be the full quarter inch standard laminate thickness... ASSUMING this board is thick enough to yield that amount so that I can have the front/top & back made from this [same] board... what I'm thinking I'd like to do is: )
FOR THE FRONT/TOP, I think I'd like to flip the outline and use the upper edge of the board for the center line... IF/ASSUMING the pinch area wouldn't conflict with my objective -due to THAT WOOD being cut out by the neck pickup and/or truss rod plate. It looks to me like that is roughly where the neck pickup and/or truss rod plate would go... and other than that pinch area, the rest of the figuing is liney -and actually looks straighter than the lines on the other side. So it looks like there wouldn't be an issue with this conflicting with my wanting the figuring in the center to be liney to disguise the BTC... but it depend on whether the pickup and/or truss rod plate would eliminate this concern or not.
FOR THE BACK, I think I'd like to use the outline you have above, but slightly modified, by pushing the outline up to the upper edge of the board (to include more of the middle super cool area in the top), and also specifically angling/lifting up the horn part of the outline -to make the lines more parallel, as you suggested.
I'd like to get more of the middle super cool area into the top and back... the liney parts of the figuring should be mainly to (A) disguise/conceal the BTC on the front and back, and (B) to give me the desired concentric figuring on the edges.
Thanks again, look forward to seeing the wood when cut, and hearing your thoughts. If it turns out not to be thick enough to yield 1/4 thickness for the top and back, I'll of course want to see another board for the other side (whichever side that would be). But hopefully this board will be thick enough to yield a quarter inch of Coco Bolo on both sides!
Interesting... I just stumbled onto how to make the smiley face!!!
-
I said this at some other point -I think, when I submitted the order, but I wanted to include it here to make sure it doesn't get overlooked.
I'm leaving pinstripe choices -and headstock laminate choices- to Alembics' discretion; but please remember that I want the pinstripe(s) (I'd prefer 2 if it's a no-cost option, as I think I saw on another thread) to be AS THIN AS POSSIBLE... I DON'T WANT the usual 1/8th of an inch thick laminate... because I DON'T WANT the neck to be shaved down any more than necessary on either side...
So, again, please KEEP THE PINSTRIPE(s) THIN!!!
Thanks, gang!
-
I've made sure the body accents are still marked as pinstripes.
-
Thanks, Mica.
-
This got me thinking today. I checked my notes, and in our last conversation about bookmatch to center construction, you had specified no accent laminates to keep the neck as thick as possible. This was in lieu of your idea of having the accent laminates stop at the neck, and having the Coco Bolo only over the neck. I don't know if you remember our discussion about how difficult (but possible) this would be, but at that time, the thought was to eliminate the accents alltogether.
If you want a accent pinstripe, Maple would be the best choice for contrast. Here's Danny's Excel, with one pinstripe so you can get a visual idea:
Just to make absolutely certain, please let me know if you want:
1. no accent pinstripes
2. one accent pinstripe in Maple (for top and back of course)
Thanks.
-
Hi, Mica. I would at least like 1 pinstripe. If you think Maple is best, let's do Maple, then.
If it didn't involve extra cost, I'd like 2 pinstripes, whatever wood/colors you think best (Maple and something else? It seems like Maple and Purpleheart are the most common combination; but I like Walnut, and also Vermillion).
Bottom line: I DO want at least one pinstripe, and I tend to think I'd prefer two (provided there's no extra cost)... but -so long as I get at least one pinstripe- I defer to your judgement on the choice of woods/colors, and also whether to have one or two pinstripes.
If YOU THINK one pinstripe would look better than two, then give me one pinstripe. It sounds like Maple would be what you recommend.
If YOU THINK that two pinstripes would look as good or better than one pinstripe (and wouldn't cost any more $) then give me whatever woods/colors you think best.
Thanks, as always, for your devotion to detail.
-
If we do two, then we are getting thicker, and that defeats your other concern regarding the thickness of the neck.
It doesn't cost extra to do 2 pinstripes, if you like the look we'll do it. Maple with Purpleheart would be better than Maple with Walnut - the Walnut would vanish into the Mahogany.
This is your bass, Mark. You get to decide what will look best to you. Both styles will look great, so I'm guessing you'll want two, but you'll have to decide that and let me know - the sooner the better.
-
Hmmm. Okay.
I need your help/advice.
I know I want at least one pinstripe on either side... Maple, since that's what you suggest for best contrast.
The question is whether or not to get a second pinstripe on either side.
Visually, I'd definitely prefer two. Since you don't recommend Walnut, then it would be either Purpleheart or Vermillion. I think, all things being equal, I'd lean towards Vermillion, for balance, since there's more Purpleheart/less Vermillion in the neck. But, I'd defer to your recommendation -IF we go for two pinstripes.
Now here is where I need your help/advice/input.
My concern about shaving down the neck is based on concern about reducing the sound/effect/benefits of the Ebony neck laminate -as a result of shaving it down. But, based on previous conversations we've had, I tend to think this concern isn't valid. I searched unsuccessfully for info on pinstripe thickness... but I'm assuming they're roughly 1/32cnd of an inch thick, and therefore, two additional pinstripes would add an additional 1/16th of an inch that would have to be shaved off the neck. I'm assuming this is too minor to significantly reduce the impact of the Ebony.
Does this sound about right? Are these assumptions valid? If my concerns about losing/reducing the impact of the Ebony laminate as a result of the additional shaving required to accomodate the additional two pinstripes are unfounded, then I want to go for it and get two pinstripes on either side.
Please get me the best answer you can. I'll give you an answer as soon as I hear your response. I'll check tomorrow before I go to work, and then first thing when I get back -which may be later than usual, around 5 or 6.
Thanks, Mark
-
I only brought it up because it was previously a fairly major concern for you, and I just want to confirm that we'll be making the bass as you envision it.
It's a really small amount of wood, I actually don't think you'll hear the difference if we use one or two pinstripes.
Vermilion will brown out eventually and blend into the Mahogany same as fresh Walnut. As an accent laminate (1/8) it's big enough to still see when the color ages.
You'll have to decide whether the change in color of the Vermilion will be acceptable to you in future. While the Purpleheart ages as well, it just gets darker, and as a pinstripe, it's not going to be too noticeable.
This would make the stack:
Coco Bolo top
Maple pin
Vermilion or Purpleheart pin
Mahogany core
Vermilion or Purpleheart pin
Maple pin
Coco Bolo back
-
Thanks, Mica.
Based on your feedback, I'd like to go for the Maple & Purpleheart dual pinstripes for each side.
Are we getting close to putting on the body and the top & back?
-
If -AND ONLY IF- it DID NOT ENTAIL ANY ADDITIONAL DIFFICULTY- I'd prefer single pieces of wood for the pinstripes (as opposed to halves of wood -like the bookmatched Coco Bolo front and back). This would also eliminate any possibility of the pinstripes not lining up in the center.
But, if this poses ANY difficulty at all, please consider the request withdrawn.
-
Sorry, we don't get veneers wide enough for that. Every BTC we've done has a center seam on the veneers.
I'll mark the Maple/Purpleheart combo for a double pinstripe on the work order before I go home tonight.
-
Oh, Mrs. Thomas... just one more thing... (as Lt. Colombo would say).
There was one more small issue that popped up that I forgot to ask you about during our brief conversation today (Friday 4/6/7).
I recently read a thread somewhere here (but I can't recall where) that expressed concern about... something to the effect of/that (at some point) too many (body) laminates -and the additional glue- adversely affecting the sound.
I've read so many threads I can't recall which one it was... but I do recall it specifically pertained to an instrument (probably a bass) with Coco Bolo. A club member was advising another against putting additional laminates between the Coco Bolo and the Mahagony body, opining that it would/could take away from the Coco Bolo sound.
So I'd like to know your thoughts on this.
Specifically, I'd like your thoughts as they relate to 3 alternatives:
(1) NO pinstripe laminates;
(2) ONE pinstripe laminate (Maple)
(3) TWO pinstripe laminates (Maple & Purpleheart)
As far as APPEARENCE goes, I prefer (3), then (2), then (1) -in that order. This is why I settled on & asked for the Maple/Purpleheart combo -as you noted in your post above.
But this was bassed on the assumption that there would be no sonic downside/tradeoff for any of these 3 options. I'm MUCH more concerned with getting the best sound then I am with the additional spiffyness of pinstripes (assuming there's a tradeoff). I've paid a lot extra to get Coco Bolo on the front & back, 'cause I want the legendary sound of Alembics house recipe. I don't want to compromise any of that sound.
Now I see people get Coco Bolo instruments all the time with double and even triple pinstripes; hopefully, this just isn't really a concern. Hopefully, the truth/your experience/opinion is that there would either be no difference, or that the difference would be too insignificant to merit concern.
But you've seen a LOT of basses... so I'm sure you've have meaningful perspective on this.
I'd like to stick with what I've specified above... but if the double pinstripes and the additional glue required may disrupt the sonic harmony of the Coco Bolo/Mahagony recipe, then I may re-think this.
So whadaya think? What's the scoop? Significant issue, minor issue, or no issue? If the additional pinstripe & glue may compromise the Coco Bolo/Mahagony sound that I'm paying dearly for, I may want to withdraw my request for the second pinstripe... or even do away with both pinstripes. I'd hate to do this, 'cause I like the look... but IF there's in fact a tradeoff between looks VS. sound, I'll go for sound over looks.
Whatcha think?
-
It's no issue when it comes to these very thin veneers. On March 14th I said, It's a really small amount of wood, I actually don't think you'll hear the difference if we use one or two pinstripes and I haven't revised my position, so I think you're safe with your top choice of #3.
-
Cool beans! Thanks for the word!
-
The awesome appearance of Bradley's custom 6 string Coco Bolo Balance K in FTC prompts me to ask how much it would cost. I know the front&rear bevel is $250 retail; but how much extra is the cost for the mini-Omega cutout in the headstock? Depending on cost, I simply might just HAVE to get this/these features!
-
I'll have Valentino email you about that tomorrow. He's got Tuesdays off, and only Susan and Valentino quote prices.
-
Cool, thanks Mica!
-
I guess you and Val didn't get to the pricing on this feature when you spoke on the phone today. I just checked with mom, and the Omega cutout on the peghead is $300.
The omega peghead cutout is not something that can just be added in some cases. It's really best to know before we cut the peghead out what the final shape will be. It may affect the placement of the front and back veneers, for instance.
This is the last item that I know of that is keeping your build on hold for now. Once it's cleared, so will the path for the rest of the constuction on your bass.
-
Have you decided if you want the Omega peghead or the Corwn peghead on your bass?
-
Yes, ma'am, I WOULD like to have the mini-omega feature in the peghead AND the front & rear bevel for the peghead -ASSUMING that the cost would be $550 retail ($300 for the omega, $250 for the front/rear bevel) that could/would be added to the order with Beaver and subject to his dealer discount.
As long as this is the case, I ask for you to go ahead with it.
It's killing me... but it just looks SO good, I want to have these features... I know it'll really push the looks of my bass over the top!
-
All the cool kids are doing it.
Bradley
-
I REALLY like this idea/feature, and would be interested in adding this option... depending on the cost. I'd prefer the Bird -but would consider/be interested in a (quote for) a Bar as well... in the event it were less expensive -which seems possible, since it's a more simple shape, and possibly easier/less costly to machine.
If this were under $100 extra, I'd probably get it; if it were more, then I'd have to consider it, the higher the cost, the less likely it would be I'd get it.
If I DID get this feature, it would eliminate any concerns over the number of screws... 3 would be fine.
Yeah, I really like this idea... it seems like a really cool way to further boost the already impressive sustain that Alembics are known for in general, and which results from the sustain block (and the Ebony neck laminate!)!
-
Well, it's a lot more expensive thatn $100, and I don't think it's a good choice for your other concerns about tailpiece placement. The recessed routing cannot be shifted later like the tailpiece position mounted with the usual wood screws.
On Marc's tailpiece, there are 2 layers of brass soldered together, but the whole thing is still anchored with wood screws.
I'm not sure that the sustain will be noticeably improved, especially since if we set up the bass properly, the string shouldn't vibrate above the nut or below the bridge saddle.
I would advise against this feature for your bass.
-
Okay, then, Mica. I defer to your recommendation. Let's pass on this option. Thanks again for your feedback.
Mark
-
Again, that pretty much says it. I saw/heard on the Futures Channel video (as well as on this site) that Alembic offers several finish options.
I want to make sure I'm properly educated to make the right choice.
I love the finish on my Europa -which I think/assume is the high gloss finish; however, it sounds like I might like/prefer to get the satin finish on the neck...? Is it either/or? Can you put the satin finish OVER the glossy finish... or would it be IN PLACE of it? And, if it's an either/or, would there be any visual/eyesore danger (pertaining to the transition from the high gloss finish of/on the body to the satin finish on the neck?
Is the cost the same? Are there any potential downsides or trade-offs?
Yeah, when the time comes (hopefully soon), I'd appreciate your guidence/input in helping me make this decision.
If nothing else, I know I'd be happy with the finish my Europa has... it looks and plays awesome! But maybe I'd be even more happy with the satin finish on the neck? It seems to be highly regarded by some of the folks here.
I'm also curious about other finish options for the body -just to cover the basses- though I'm not sure if anything could top the beauty of the high gloss finish.
I don't think the oil finish grabs me -assuming it's what I think it is. That's what's on Bob's Custom Rogue, right? (The one with the built-in Superfilter.) It's a beautiful bass, but the finish wouldn't be what I'd choose.
So, yeah, I'd appreciate some info/help/guidence -when the time comes.
Thanks, Mark
-
Mark,
The satin finish is now standard on the neck. Basically it is the gloss neck, sanded with 2000 grit sandpaper. Feels really sleek.
I'd say go gloss with satin neck.
Bradley
-
Thanks for the word, Bradley! It sounds like this is probably what I'll want to go for.
At this point, the only thing left'll be to confirm it with Mica.
-
Satin neck is no additional charge. It is exactly the same paint, only the rubout is different. When it's rubbed out, the back of the neck is sanded with progressively finer and finer abrasives up to 3000 grit (it hardly even feels abrasive!).
The person doing the rubout will determine the decorative aspects. Usually, the peghead is left glossy on both the front and the back. The edge or the fingerboard may be sanded satin, or it may feather into a glossy allover peghead. We've never bothered to have a standard on this, just evaluating each instrument as it's finished to decide what will look best on it.
You are not allowed to have an oil finished Coco Bolo bass where you live anyway. The environment is not appropriate.
Other finish choices have to do with tints and colors, also which aren't really good for your bass.
So let me know if you want the work order changed to gloss finish with satin neck and I'll go and make the change.
-
quote:You are not allowed to have an oil finished Coco Bolo bass where you live anyway.
You're not allowed. That just cracks me up (in a good way!).
When I called to order my bass, Susan said, You're not allowed to order a 6-string with the normal Mark King body. Made me laugh, since we live in a, I'm sorry, sir, the computer won't allow me to configure your order that way/a faceless bureaucrat won't allow that... type of world these days. Susan said, it won't be right, so I won't build it.
Bradley
PS- Vegas is nosebleed city (dry doesn't cover it) whenever I go there so I see why.
-
Yes, Mica, let's go ahead and do that, please.
I'd like the gloss finish/satin neck combo that's now standard. Sounds like the thing to do.
Thanks again for your help, gang!
-
That sez it all. I know I mentioned this at some point, but I wanna get it on record here.
I don't like binding around the continous wood plates -it interferes with the purpose, in my mind.
I don't like the way it looks... I want the continous wood plates to fit in as much as possible, with as little disruption as possible.
The point is to disguise/minimize noticing the electronics plates -and highlighting them... highlights them!
-
Binding is not our first choice either, and you'll notice most of them don't include it. Our batting average is really good on this matter.
On rare occassions, the fit isn't as good as we like, and the binding is added. Of course, it's also done at the customer's request.
In any event, you'll know as soon as the plates are made (that means after the plywood is assembled) how well the fit is.
-
It recently occured to me that the Omega cutout must affect the reach of the lower notes... the 1st and 2cnd fret, in particular, y'know...
Now, I'm totally sold on the aesthetics and functionality of the Balance K body in general, and of the Omega cutout variant in particular.
But... part of the concept of THIS bass is to contrast 8 Strings of Power by being a smaller, lighter, and easier-to-play bass. I don't want to have to reach farther than I do on my 8-String for the low notes.
My 8-string Europa is a 35 inch scale instrument, as you know; and the tailpiece is close to the edge of the instrument; now since this 6-String will be a 34 inch scale, that should give me an inch less reach; but then the Omega cutout would seem to make it longer... to stretch the 1st fret even farther away from me.
Is this so? Or am I missing something? I'm wondering if maybe I should switch to the point (which I'd probably either have shaved down or altogether off). I REALLY love the Omega on the Balance K... it's a large part of what's sold me on the shape/bodystyle. Without the Omega, I'm not sure if I like the Balance K Point any better than the Europa -which I love. (But I definitely love it a little more WITH the Omega.)
I want this bass to be about function more than form; if it comes down to an either/or, I'll go with function and sacrifice the Omega... or maybe go with a Europa body if that would still be an option.
What are your thoughts on this? I'll defer to your expertise... but so you Alembic Doctors can give the best diagnosis, again, my concern is that I want the 1st fret to be easier to reach/play than it is on my 8-String Europa.
What should I do? Would the 34 inch Balance K Omegas' 1st fret be harder/the same/easier to reach/play as my 1st fret on the Europa.
My intuition is that the Point variation would require less reach, as the tailpiece would presumably be mounted right near the edge of the bass (whereas this is not possible on the Omega variation -due to the absence of wood/Omega cutout displacing the tailpiece and pushing the fingerboard/lower frets further out).
What's the scoop, Doc(s)?
-
Normal placement for the upper horn reach is between 14-15th fret on the Europa and between 13-14th fret on the Balance K, so they are very similar.
While a bass with a point can have the tailpiece mounted closer to the bottom of the bass, it usually isn't because it would interfere with upper fret access without modifications to the lower body half. Here's an example (http://www3.alembic.com/img/inst/13461_bodyfrontM.jpg) of a Balance K with a point carving, so you can see where the tailpiece falls.
Eliminating the point will reduce the weight some.
-
So (forgive me if I'm dense/slow) the Point and Omega variants BOTH have the same bridge/tailpiece placement? It seems that is what you're saying, and the picture you provided -as well as the Dragonfly bass in FTC- make it look like it IS in the same position.
So, then, how would the reach required to access the 1st fret of my 34 inch Balance K Omega compare to the reach required to reach the 1st fret of a standard long scale 34 inch Europa? Would it require MORE reach, about the SAME, or LESS REACH? As long as the reach required to access the 1st fret is equal or less to that of a standard 34 inch scale Europa (which would logically be less than my 35 inch scale Europa) then I want to stick with the plan... with the Balance K Omega variation I've spec'd. If for some reason, the reach is greater, than I might want to talk to you about switching to a Point or Europa and/or burying the fingerboard as clubmember Tom mentioned you did for his ET bass.
Please clarify at your convenience whether the reach required to access the 1st fret on a 34 inch Balance K Omega is more or the same or less than that of a 34 inch Europa. If it's equal or less, then I can just forget about it and kick back. If it's more than I need to get your input to figure a way to make it equal or less, be it switching to a Europa, or to a Point, and adjusting the tailpiece placement!
-
The carving variation of point, smooth, or omega on Standard, Balance K, Balance Point, 3/4, or Scorpion body shapes does not affect the position of the tailpiece.
I think the two body shapes, Europa and Balance K would be very similar in the amount of reach to the first fret since the place where the strap connects on the horn is very similar to eachother - they are separated by one fret or less.
Think of it this way - imagine the upper horn extended to the fifth fret. The reach to the first fret would be decreased. Now image the upper horn extends only to the 20th fret, the reach to the first fret would be increased. Does this help you visualize?
-
Ummm... well, I already got THAT. Bassed on our previous discussions. I get that the horn has slightly more reach. But it also seems like the body must be longer, and this must factor into the equation. For example, if we'd put an omega in my 8-String Europa, it's obvious this would require pushing the tailpiece and bridge in (and therefore pushing the fingerboard out, and increasing the reach necessary to reach the first fret). But then again, maybe I'm wrong, and the Balance K body isn't longer... maybe it's shorter... I don't know!
Anyway, I don't want to be a pain... but I was hoping for a little more than your statement that the reach is very similar.
I'm switching down from the 35 inch scale to the 34 inch scale so I'll have (a little) less reach. So, of course... I want to have (a little) less reach. So I just want to confirm. It would REALLY be a drag if I got this bass, and the reach required for 1st fret access was equal or (even worse) GREATER than (with) my 8-String.
I'm hoping you can give me a definitive answer on this. Hopefully/maybe -if no one already just knows and can say- y'all have a 34 inch Europa and a 34 inch Balance K that a person or two could play real quick, to compare. But if not, I could ask club members, or maybe Beaver. Surely there are a couple club members who have both a Balance K and a Europa.
Bottom line: I really want to stick with the Balance K Omega... BUT this is based on the assumption that the reach needed to access the 1st fret would be at least a little less than what I have now on/for my 35 inch Europa. It either is, or it isn't... and I don't know, so I'm hoping you do.
So long as the reach is less than my Europa's, than I'm 100% for the Balance K Omega; on the other hand, if the reach required to access the 1st fret on the Balance K is/would be equal or greater -than that of my 35 inch Europa, then I'd want to either switch to a Europa body or bury the fingerboard (move the peghead closer to the bridge) and/by sacrificing the Omega and moving the tailpiece near the end of the body.
-
I've asked for any clubmembers who know the answer to this question to share their knowledge with me, but thus far I've not got an answer; however, Bsee pointed out that we could extend the horn, if needed.
Personally, I'm hoping that the truth/reality is that the 1st fret access of the 34 inch Balance K is equal or less than that of the 34 inch Europa -because then it would logically have to be less than my 35 inch Europa.
If the reach is equal or less than a same-scale Europa, then everything is simple, and we can just proceed smoothly with the plan and just make a standard Balance K with dual BTC.
But if it turns out that reality/truth is that the 34 inch Balance K Omega requires MORE reach, then, in that case, I'd like to discuss options for extending the horn to reduce the reach.
I was thinking that, if necessary, you could bury the fingerboard, moved it in (towards the bridge) like you did for Tom's ET bass... but I'd have hated to sacrifice the Omega. I'm hopeful now that the worst case scenario now would simply require a longer horn, which hopefully wouldn't be too difficult/costly.
I keep hoping to see a couple members respond and say, actually Mark, my 34 inch Balance K seems to require equal or less reach than that of my 34 inch Europa! It would make things so easy if the standard setup just works!
So I'm crossing my fingers and toes that I'll hear those who know tell me that reality IS how I want it to be!
But if not, then I'll wanna talk horns!
Thanks Mica!
(Message edited by the 8 string king on January 02, 2007)
-
Hi Mica, and happy new year!
I started a thread over the weekend asking for any clubmembers who have both a 34 inch scale Europa and a 34 inch scale Balace K to answer the question of reach... but, unfortunately, I haven't got a definitive answer yet. The ONLY thing I've heard so far is that you said they were very similar, and I think bsee/Bob said they're about the same.
I imagine that there must surely be someone -if not a couple someones- at the shop there who can answer this... what, with all the basses y'all make. So I imagine I'll (hopefully) get an answer soon.
Ideally, the truth/answer is that the Balance K requires equal or less reach than a Europa of the same (34 inch) scale... in which case y'all can just plow ahead, since then it would by definition have to require less reach than my 35 inch scale Europa. Then we can just stick with the plan, which I'd prefer, and I know that it's also preferable for Alembic to stick with specs rather than changing them.
But again, if there IS a reach issue, then I need your help/expertise/guidance to work out a solution. A longer horn seems like the 1st option to consider -assuming there IS an issue (which then requires a solution). It also hit me that I/we could reconsider the scale length, maybe change it back to the original 33 inch scale I'd first considered. But again, at this point, I'd prefer to stick with the specified length of 34 -UNLESS we need to consider options to deal with the reach issue -assuming there is one. I was initially very interested in this scale length, but conversations with Valention convinced me to switch the spec to 34 inch scale. This was because I'd have to choose between using/finding medium scale strings... OR using long scale strings at (slightly) REDUCED TENSION (which seems really iffy/sketchy/dangerous to me), and I know Alembic only carries/stocks Alembic long scale sets (by the way, I wonder why that is... I'd figure since y'll have Alembic strings, you'd carry and sell long, medium, and short-scale sets). So I just choose to scrap the 33 and go with the 34, to keep things simple. As long as the reach required to get to the 1st fret is at least an inch less than on my 35 inch Europa, it will be satisfactory. But is it is the question.
Anyway, at your convenience, please establish and convey to me whether the 34 inch Balance K requires MORE reach than a 34 inch Europa. So long as is doesn't, then all is good, and can proceed according to plan. On the other hand, if there is a reach issue, then I'd like to hear your thoughts/recommendations/options for extending the horn length, adjusting the scale, and/or any other ways of addressing the problem, if there is a problem (which hopefully there isn't!)
I'm certain that you're both busy, and as on top of this as your time and many responsibilites allow, so I'm going to abstain from calling you this week unless you indicate that there IS a problem/issue/concern regarding the reach. (In which case, it would be much better for me to communicate verbally.) (In lieu of that) I'll just rely on this FTC medium for communication. I'm hoping you'll have the time to at least get me an answer on whether or not there is actually even an issue/concern in the first place -this week. I'll cross my fingers and toes!
Thanks again for everything!
Mark
P.S. I'm still very interested in the neck width of the inner core, and reminder, I'm interested in the chambered/hollow... whatever you call it... construction. I'm pretty sure I've already said it, but, just to make sure it's on-record, I do want that feature! A large part of why I ended up going with the Mark King Deluxe package -with Coco Bolo on front and back- was based on your raves about Andy's Custom Europa, with the Coco Bolo front and back, sandwiching a hollow mahogany body!
-
Hi Mark, I'm pretty sure that you won't be able to get a definitive answer from anyone, including me. This is beacuse there are many variables, not the least of which is how you hold your bass. As I've stated, I think that both the Balance K and Europa have very similar reaches. On Friday, I asked Valentino to model an Orion 5 (same body shape as Europa as far as straplocks are concerned) and a Balance K 5. Here's the photos with his reach to the first fret:
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/34891.jpg)
(http://club.alembic.com/Images/631/34892.jpg)
Now, these photos are not exactly taken from the same angle, but you can probably tell the reach is similar. Valentino noted that comparing these two particular basses, the first fret reach was a little closer on the Balance K to him. I hope this visualization is helpful to you in making your decision.
-
Valentino-- always mugging for the camera. Hah!
-
He looks a bit more inspired on the BalK. Must be the Ebony in the neck.
-
Mica & Val, thanks for taking the pictures.
Mica, I don't understand why, but accept that you feel no one's gonna provide me a definitive answer. The question assumed all other things being equal. Presumably the same person using the same strap holding each instrument the same way would find each model to require more or equal or less reach.
At any rate, I'm a little reassured that there are now 3 people (you, Bob, and Val) saying they're similar, and no voices saying (thus far) that the Balance K requires more reach. Vals comment that the Balance K seemed to require less reach was the most encouraging comment.
Still, at this point, I'd like to formally ask about options & pricing for possibly slightly extending the horn.
Please ask Val or Susan about the pistol grip horn on Raging Bass. How much extra is this, and how much longer is it? Can you offer a simpler, less expensive longer-horn option? (The pistol-grip looks a little fancy/pricy... I'm mainly interested in function... something to add just a little length... maybe an inch or so.)
I'm really torn on this; I was hoping for a definitive answer, but if such can not be provided, then it basically leaves me with one of 3 choices:
1. Extend the horn length a little -if it entails little to no additional labor/cost;
2. Just go with the standard Balance K and hope that it will be similar to a 34 inch Europa -and require less reach than my 35 inch Europa.
3. Switch to a 34 inch Europa body-which would be a guarenteed way of making sure it would require less reach than my 35 inch Europa.
Option 3 seems like the surest way to eliminate the reach concern; however, as much as I'd like to have another Europa, I'd still prefer the Balance K.
So I need to find out about extended horn options and prices, and I guess I'll have to then think about it a little.
Thanks again for everything!
Mark
By the way, that Balance K is unbelieveably stunning! Burl Redwood?
-
And option 4: pay extra for pistol-grip or another extension, depending on how much!
-
That's the thing, all other things aren't equal. The most important thing is how you hold the bass. It's not a given that you will hold two basses of different shapes the same way that let's say Valentino holds the same two basses. The best answer to the question is an educated guess, and that is they are very similar.
I'm certain the pistol grip will be less expensive than a new custom body shape. Making the horn bigger means new plans. When Valentino is answering your other princing questions, he'll address the pistol grip as well, and that should help you decide on which of your 4 options to choose. He's usually here around 11:00 or so, so he'll be contacting you around 12:00 I suppose.
And, yes, that Balance K is Burl Redwood. It's going to Will Gunn Guitars very soon. I agree, it's gorgeous.
-
I've been going over and over all the pictures, postings, and testimonials regarding the Balance K, and other things, to come to a decision ASAP -but the right decision.
Just to let you know, I'll be at work/out until probably after 6 pm today.
Didn't see any emails yet, but I'm becoming increasingly un-interested in altering the horn of going for the pistol grip. But I'd still like the price for the extended grip/horn.
Thanks, Mark.
-
Well, I know what I want. For sure ?or at least as sure as I can be. I?ve spent nearly every waking hour for the past several days dwelling on it, and looking over and over every post I could find on the site about the Balance K in Showcase, FTC, and the Custom Archives. I?ve looked carefully through the comments and testimonials; I?ve also looked at Europas, and I?ve contemplated. I?ve carefully considered numerous alternatives; I?ve considered pros & cons, and tradeoffs and risks; I?ve evaluated what I want detailwise, and how individual specific things fit into a hierarchy. And I?ve figured it out.
I figured it out by process of elimination. As much as I love the Europa shape ?and that?s quite a bit- I want something different from it. I simply love the Balance K, and the only thing affecting that is the concern over reach. I very seriously considered asking for a Rogue body; the Rogue was designed for a 35 inch scale, and has that extra long horn which I?ve been told gives it the best ?reach? of any Alembic body, so a 34 should definitely have to require significantly less reach than my 35 inch Europa. But as I looked at Rogue after Rogue, I just concluded that the shape is not for me aesthetically. The only reason I?d choose one is for function; and while I do appreciate the beauty and function of the form, it?s just doesn?t do it for me appearancewise, and I like it FAR less than the Balance K.
So I go back to the Balance K. Now I think again about switching to the original 33 inch scale again; but the string tension is an issue. Now, per Val?s recommendation, I attempted AGAIN to just? find information about Thomastik bass strings, ?cause supposedly the have great medium scale strings, so I thought, ?okay, despite the disadvantage of having to rely on very expensive & more complicated to get strings, if they?re reliable, it could just solve the problem. Anyway, I spent WAY too much time trying to just find info on them and how to get them, and I just wasted time and gave myself a headache. Their strings must be pretty good if people continue to buy them when someone who wants to has such a hard time doing it. Whatever. Suffice it to say, they?re ruled out. So that brings me back to the 34. I looked at the tailpiece? there?s very little additional room to move it closer than standard to the Omega, just a millimeter or two, nothing to be gained by asking you to move everything in a millimeter or two.
I thought about sacrificing the Omega, and have you bury the fingerboard, that is move the peghead closer to the tailpiece. This was the best option so far. Switch to the point, and move the neck in. That way, I have less reach for sure. But I?d have to sacrifice that Omega? and I really love the Omega. I like the Point better than the Rogue; and about the same as the Europa, but it would score points for being different (than the Europa).
So it comes down to a contest between the Balance K Omega, and the Balance K point. I looked at numerous Balance K Omegas, and 3 different point versions I could find? over and over again? and I concluded that I find the Balance K Omega to be FAR more exciting/pleasing aesthetically.
So I want the Balance K Omega. Like the original plan. But what about the reach? Well, though I don?t completely understand it, I respect and accept your expertise, and your statement that you don?t think anyone can give me a definitive answer. I consider your and Bob?s statement that the reach is ?similar? (between a 34? Europa and a 34? Balance K). I tentatively assume that it should therefore require at least slightly less reach than my 35? 8-String. I?ve found several testimonials regarding how ?ergonomic? and ?easy to play? the Balance K is. And I think that, with a much smaller neck/more narrow neck, and with ?only? 1 Ebony laminate, and a smaller peghead, the overall feel? the other factors besides reach & scale length MUST surely make this bass MUCH easier to play. So, I?m gonna take a chance with the reach issue, because, by process of elimination, I?m not willing to risk/sacrifice anything else.
I spend a LOT of time trying to find medium-scale strings, and, after looking about 300 different string offerings, and google-ing galore, I was unable to find even ONE set of medium-scale 6-string strings ?from ANYONE!!! That sealed the deal on a 34 being the thing. I?m not going to order an instrument with a medium or medium-long scale when apparently no strings exist for them (or are this hard to find)!
After reviewing Val?s ?Bird of Prey?, I AM REITERATING MY INTEREST IN THE ?PISTOL GRIP?. I know I?ve seen more than that example, and ?Raging Bass?, but those were the only ones I could find. Now the ?Pistol Grip? on Raging Bass didn?t grab me that much, especially as far as fitting in the the aesthetic nuances of the Balance K, but after looking at it a bunch of times, the obvious hit me (aided by the explicit comments that) that bass ISN?T a Balance K. Then I remembered Val?s Bird of Prey having the Pistol Grip, and when I looked at HIS/that example, THAT Pistol Grip looks MUCH cooler, and looks like it adds a good inch or more while flowing better/fitting in better ?with the Balance K Omega.
SO I WANT THE BALANCE K OMEGA ?LIKE ORIGINALLY PLANNED? but I?m also VERY INTERESTED in the option of adding the ?Pistol Grip?, and request pricing for this essential detail, as well as an estimate of added length. A really nice touch would be ?if it?s not too much trouble- to draw me a little simple mockup of what it would look like on a REGULAR (non-pointy variety) of the Balance K Omega ?maybe even superimposed OVER the regular, to really maximize the ?seeing? of the difference.
To be clear, I?m gonna stick with the BALANCE K OMEGA REGARDLESS. But I?m VERY SERIOUS about considering the option of the extended Pistol Grip option. If I can get something like Val?s Pistol Grip which doesn?t interfere with the flow/aesthetics of the body, and which adds an inch of ?reach?, I?ll want to get it, and price/affordability would be/is the only consideration.
The last I checked (earlier today) I still hadn?t received any price/info for this feature. Actually, the most simple thing would seem to be to post it here, but if for any reason you prefer to send it privately via email, I?ll remind you my email address is: charlieshep@cox.net (mailto:charlieshep@cox.net)
I should be able to give you a decision on this final detail pretty quickly upon receiving a price, and even quicker if there?s a mockup/picture to compare to/evaluate visually.
Also ?reminder- I?m still interested on price info for the ?mini-Omega? in the peghead.
Thanks again for your devotion to detail and greatness, Mica & gang!
I look forward to getting this info, so this can be resolved and put back into production!
P.S. Tomorrow -well, actually today (Friday) I'll be leaving for work by 6:30 a.m. and hopefully back before 4:00, at which point I'll immediately check back here, and possibly call, bassed on what's happening. But I won't be here much before then. If we don't hook up for whatever reason, I wish you all a happy weekend!
Mark
-
By the way, I'm starting to think that Burl Redwood Balance K is the prettiest I've EVER seen... if I wasn't so totally sold and gung-ho on the Coco Bolo and it's sound...
Wow, it REALLY looks awesome!
-
Maybe I'm missing something here, Mark, but why would the overall length of the string be an issue? As we discussed in an earlier thread, what's above the nut doesn't affect the tension. Pitch is a function of the combination of gauge, scale & tension, so I would think that the quest, rather than finding a specific overall length, would instead be to find a gauge that gives you the tension you want on your scale and still feels good. If it's too long, just clip off the excess. Us guitar types do it all the time. Or, to look at it another way, if you want a 33 scale, the tension WILL be less with the same strings, so your decision is whether the tension is more important to your fingers than the reach. If reach is the main thing, long-scale strings will cover 33 as well as 34. If the tension is more important, go with the long scale. But I wouldn't base the choice on a lack of medium scale strings. But if there's a factor I'm missing, please enlighten me; I freely admit (though never to my children) that there are many things I don't know.
Peter
-
NOTE: I'm submitting this post in 2 places: here, and in the Build Record & Discussion area.
Hi all. I just got off the phone with Valentino, and based on our conversation, I now feel COMPLETELY secure with my decision to stick with the Balance K Omega. Further, (again, based on that conversation) there doesn't seem to be any need for an extended horn/pistol grip. So I'm withdrawing the request for price info on that.
So I'm giving you the go-ahead to proceed with the original plan, and I appreciate your having beared with me while I went through the necessary inconvenience of figuring it out and making sure I'd get the right thing for me. I now feel very confident about it.
So at this point, I'm going to kick back and leave y'all alone for a while. The biggest pending issue is just the Coco Bolo, and again, I'd appreciate the opportunity to see & approve your choices. Other than that, the only other small things are the estimate for the 5-screw setup and a price for the peghead Omega; and both of these are minor details that can be addressed down the road when the bass is actually built, so there's no hurry.
I'll be keeping my eyes peeled here on FTC, and anxiously anticipating and appreciating the updates as they come, however big or small! I look forward to the next stage -which I assume is putting on the body wings.
Thanks again for everything, and have a great weekend, folks.
Mark
-
Peter, after reading and rereading your post, I'm completely clueless about what you're referring to. You ask why would the overall length of the string be an issue? Uhm... I don't know. Who's saying it is, and where? You state As we discussed in an earlier thread, what's above the nut doesn't affect the tension. I remember... but... why are you bringing it up... what's it got to do with anything here? I'm not clear. This thread is about concern over the reach... the distance my hand/arm must reach to reach the 1st fret -NOT about overall string length nor the length of string above the nut.
I can't see any point/connection to anything that has been said here.
(Don't take that the wrong way, ya rascal... I appreciate 'yer feedback! Thanks again for sharing your thoughts on that previous thread!)
-
Two posts above mine, you were worrying over the trouble with finding medium gauge strings, and seemed to be leaning away from your first choice of scale due to that.
( I was unable to find even ONE set of medium-scale 6-string strings ?from ANYONE!!! That sealed the deal on a 34 being the thing. I?m not going to order an instrument with a medium or medium-long scale when apparently no strings exist for them (or are this hard to find)!)
I was wondering why the easier availablity of longer strings would dictate a change to 34 when a pair of sidecuts can render them any (shorter) length you want. Sorry if I misunderstood your lament.
And, oh yeah - I LOVE that neck!
Peter
(Message edited by Cozmik_Cowboy on January 05, 2007)
-
I've got your body shape recorded as Balance K with Omega cutout now. We're almost ready to lift the hold.
Okay, now that I reread your post, it seems you're not quite as ready on the body shape as I first thought (sorry sometimes I do get lost in a long post). What I heard from Val this afternoon was that we were sticking with the Balance K Omega style.
Any custom body shape design starts at $650. This is not an item that is discounted through the dealer as it's strictly labor. It's not as simple as just adding a horn from one to the other; even when you change one small part, every curve needs to be reconsidered or it will look stuck on. If the details of the custom shape impact labor, like with extra carving for a pistol grip, you'll be charged for that as well.
Even though Valentino's Bird of Prey is based on the Balance K, it's a dedicated shape with many subtle changes to the perimeter, and not so subtle changes (like the extra pointies). To adapt this shape with the pistol grip (it must have two points in it - too long for any other consideration), it's still a custom design. It still gets the full attention of our staff to make sure it will be beautiful and functional.
Now, I don't recall that we've made a Balance K with a pistol grip yet. The pistol grip option is an additional $300. Since it's a template that we'll use and reuse many times, we wouldn't charge the $650 minimum custom body shape design fee. Of course, you'd have like the shape we come up with for our standard library. Just some food for thought.
See peghead shape thread for the last little bit.
(Message edited by mica on January 05, 2007)
-
Hi Mica. After reading & rereading your edit to your post, and then going back over my most recents posts, I'm mystified. There seems to be a misunderstanding, though if I've said something to cause it, I'm not sure what. Anyway let me clarify. I'll do it in terms of a timeline. After thinking real hard about it in great detail and checking all sorts of things, I came to the conclusion THAT I WANT TO STICK WITH THE ORIGINAL PLAN... with the BALANCE K OMEGA. And there were only 2 other issues: interest in the pistol grip, and the cost of the peghead omega. I explicitly stated this above in my post #320. Here are 3 paragraphs that state that, quoted from above:
SO I WANT THE BALANCE K OMEGA ?LIKE ORIGINALLY PLANNED? but I?m also VERY INTERESTED in the option of adding the ?Pistol Grip?, and request pricing for this essential detail, as well as an estimate of added length. A really nice touch would be ?if it?s not too much trouble- to draw me a little simple mockup of what it would look like on a REGULAR (non-pointy variety) of the Balance K Omega ?maybe even superimposed OVER the regular, to really maximize the ?seeing? of the difference.
To be clear, I?m gonna stick with the BALANCE K OMEGA REGARDLESS. But I?m VERY SERIOUS about considering the option of the extended Pistol Grip option. If I can get something like Val?s Pistol Grip which doesn?t interfere with the flow/aesthetics of the body, and which adds an inch of ?reach?, I?ll want to get it, and price/affordability would be/is the only consideration.
and also:
Also ?reminder- I?m still interested on price info for the ?mini-Omega? in the peghead.
AFTER posting that at 1 am that morning, I called and spoke to Valentino that afternoon, and explicitly CONFIRMED the BALANCE K OMEGA. He assured me there was nothing to worry about with the reach, and that it was easy to reach the 1st fret. After speaking to him, I felt comfortable that the pistol grip wasn't needed, and told him to withdraw the request. I asked about the pricing for the peghead omega, and he said he'd have to get that from Susan, so at that point I again confirmed explicitly that I wanted to stick with the original plan, the BALANCE K OMEGA, and told him I'd also immediately post a posting to that effect.
And that's exactly what I did. As soon as I got off the phone, I made another post (post# 322, above) which I began with a note stating it was dual-posted here, and on the main thread -and that post explicitly referred to my conversation with Val, that I was dead-set on the original plan -the Balance K Omega- and that I was withdrawing my request for pricing on the pistol grip. And I give you the explicit go-ahead in that post. It seems as clear as it could be. Apparently something has made you think that I'm not quite as ready on the body shape as you first thought, but I'm clueless what it would be.
I actually didn't see the edit until now 'cause I'd been thinking about the Omega in the headstock, and I didn't want to post about it until I was sure. This was further complicated by reading Shim's threads, which made me aware of something significant that I wasn't aware of -which was that you could add the bass & treble toggles to Signature electronics for $400 per set. This led to some thinking about that, 'cause I'd love to have Signature electronics IF I also had the B&T toggles -even if there were only one set; but it was too expensive, as I'd have to pay $400 just to get back the Signature package, and then ANOTHER $400 for the B&T toggles, and then another $125 for the other 3-position Q... and even with the dealer discount, it's still a bit too much, as much as I want it. So, after I eliminated that consideration, and returned to the issue of the peghead omega and the bevel, I did decide that I WANT TO HAVE BOTH THE FRONT & REAR PEGHEAD BEVEL WITH THE PEGHEAD OMEGA. (Based on the assumption that we'll run it through Beaver and get the dealer discount. With that, I can, gasp, afford it! [By which I mean, go further into debt over it!])
SO, TO SUMMARIZE: prior to this post, I'd decided FOR CERTAIN that I WANT THE BALANCE K OMEGA body WITH THE PEGHEAD BEVELED (front&back) AND THE PEGHEAD OMEGA.
And I HAD dismissed the pistol grip. But y'know what? You went and got me intrigued. You haven't done one on a Balance K, you say...? I guess the Bird of Prey doesn't count since it's not exactly a Balance K, but a custom Variant.
Yeah, now I'm curious again. Perhaps it's some weird vanity or otherwise silly value, but the idea of having an Alembic first definitely has some appeal for me. What can I say? And we're talking about a functional feature here. So now, at this point, I'm seriously re-considering the pistol grip... re-considering adding it. $300 bucks isn't too hideous, and it could fit in well with the dual omegas. I'm certain you'd make it look great. The big question is: how much longer would the horn be? Approximately. It add's a little, right? To be clear, if it DOESN'T add any length, we can scrap the idea right here. But if it does go further towards the peghead, then I'm interested in considering it, and how much length it adds to the horn would be an important factor.
So, just to completely, absolutely clarify, I'm going to summarize the final details again, with the disclaimer that there are just TWO details left: whether or not I ADD the pistol grip; and whether the tailpiece will have 3 or 5 screws (which may affect whether I get the bird I'd prefer, or the bar. I'd prefer a 5-screw bird to a 5-screw bar, but I'd prefer a 5-screw bar to a 3-screw bird.)
FINAL CONFIRMED SPECIFICATIONS FOR MARK'S CUSTOM BASS:
Mark King Deluxe Custom 6-String Alembic Bass
Balance K Omega body
Coco Bolo, front & back, BTC on front & back
Hollow Mahagoney Body
Custom neck, completed
Crown peghead, beveled front&back with omega -NO MARK KING LOGO (assuming dealer discount)
Pinstripe(s)at Alembic's discretion -BUT AS THIN AS POSSIBLE TO MINIMIZE SHAVING NECK down. NO THICK ACCENT/PINSTRIPE(S), PLEASE.
Peghead laminates at Alembic's discretion, if you happened to be inspired to create a combo to really go with the unique neck, that'd be extra cool.
Continuous wood backplates.
Europa electronics with 3-position Q, 1st preference is for the Diamond configuration -if there's no extra cost; otherwise, I prefer the Essense/Europa configuration.
If possible, I'd prefer (just) one electronics cavity, and if more than one is necessary, please avoid doing one on the neck, which I really hate.
That's it. Really, we should be virtually ready to go here. I was completelly ready, but now you've piqued my curiousity about the pistol grip, so I just want to know ABOUT how much length it adds. Valentino's seems to add a good inch or so -but of course that's not necessarily the same as what mine would offer. I don't even need to see it to make a decision, I know you'll do a great job. But the added length is essential; again, if the pistol grip wouldn't add any length, then you can scrap the idea. But I got the impression that it did add length, that that was part of the point. It's explicitly stated that the pistol grip on Raging Bass adds length, and it's obvious that Val's is visibly longer than standard.
So really, this is the only thing. Just get back to me on this, I'll give you a decision, and then y'all can go ahead with it. The only other VERY small thing in the screw/tailpiece issue, which I assume we have a little time on, but which I can give you a decision on the minute I get the price.
If you need any clarification or anything else from me, let me know. Once I decide on the pistol grip, I can call up Beaver and add on that, the bevel, and the peghead omega (and any extra for a 5-screw tailpiece -unless that goes directly to Alembic) that day.
If you had any pictures or references for the pistol grip, that would be cool. Would it be pretty much like Raging Bass, or different?
(Message edited by the 8 string king on January 07, 2007)
-
Peter, cutting a long-scale string doesn't make it into a medium-scale string. Medium-scale strings would be a different thickness, thicker, to compensate for their shorter-ness.
By all accounts, it's not as simple as just cutting the string; a long-scale string on a medium-scale bass simply won't have the same tension it does on a long scale; that's WHY you need the medium-scale strings... that's WHY they exist. (At least, according to everything I've been told by all the experts -including the ones here!)
Thanks again for you input, and for helping me with my decision on custom #2!
-
O.K., I'll jump in on this one. It seems to me that if you take, oh say for example, a .45 gauge long scale string and cut some of the length off, wouldn't it still be .45 gauge? As length changes, the gauges may change that are used for strings labeled a simple generic light, medium, or heavy, but if one chooses specific gauges, I don't see how changing the length will result in a change of the thickness?
But what do I know, I only
Bill, the guitar one.
-
Eggzactly. Thet's whaht Ah'm theyin'!
-
One BIG problem with using long scale strings on a short scale bass is that the end that goes round the tuner capstan is likely to fracture. The winding end of a bass string is tapered for a good reason which I found out to my cost the first time I ever accidentally put long scale strings on my first homemade short scale bass.
graeme
-
Mark - Bill has made my point somewhat more succinctly than I. A .45 is a .45, no matter what the length.
Graeme - AH! That would come under the Maybe I'm missing something heading. It's been so long since I strung a bass, I'd forgotten the tapered end - and this would explain Mark's reluctance to snip. Thanks for clearing that up for me.
Back to Mark - in the words of Emily Lattella, Oh. That's very different. Never mind. We now return you to your regularly scheduled thread.
Peter
-
This is getting pretty funny. There is obviously a significant misunderstanding here.
For the record, I am fully aware that a .45 is a .45, regardless of length. At no point in this -nor any other thread- have I said anything to the contrary.
If your postings DO have any bearing on anything I've said, I can't see what the connection is.
Cutting the end off a long-scale string simply (and obviously) will NOT turn it into a thicker gage medium-scale string -and thus has no value as a solution for an inability to find MEDIUM SCALE strings.
-
Mica, to confirm the conversation we just finished moments ago, I will be sticking with the STANDARD (NON-pistol grip) Balance K Omega.
That leaves only the possible/if needed approval on my part of the Coco Bolo (but if you think you've got it, go for it!!!) and the minor issue of 5 vs 3 screws.
So I'll leave y'all alone for a while, and I look forward to seeing the next stage here in my FTC thread when it comes.
Again, thanks so much, I appreciate your patience, and apologize for my sometimes excessive density!
-
Sorry, Mark - I usually don't have this much trouble expressing myself clearly. I'll make one more attempt.
You said that the lack of medium scale strings led you to decide on 34. This confused me, and I was asking for clarification as to why you couldn't buy long scale in a gauge that gives you the tension you want & cut them to fit (of course you can't cut them thicker). Graeme's explanation about the tapered ends answered that for me - now I understand (and hope you do, too). Either way, I'll now limit any input on this thread to oohing and ahhing (and did I mention that I love the neck?)
Peter
-
Hey, thanks Peter! I appreciate the compliment, and also the feedback.
The only thing that really ruffles my feathers is this little ugly thing called deliberate malice. I don't get any of that from you, and I don't sweat little things, most of all misunderstandings. If I did... I have to become suicidal!!!
The understanding I have, is that (relatively) shorter scale-length strings tend to have GREATER string tension. If one were to take long-scale strings off a long scale bass and put them on a medium-scale bass, they'd have significantly/noticeably less tension; and if they were taken off and put on to a short-scale bass, they'd be wet noodles.
For this reason, as I understand it, shorter-scale strings thus have THICKER gauges; medium-scale strings should be THICKER/WIDER than long-scale strings (so that, when they're tightened up they produce comparative tension and pitch). And short-scale strings should be even thicker/wider -for the same reason.
If (wider/thicker) quality medium-scale strings were available... if I could buy THICKER medium-scale strings that would have the same tension/pitch as my longer-scale strings (which can ONLY be accomplished by making the strings thicker) I'd have been interested in them; but since I couldn't find any, I decided to stick with the status quo long scale strings.
And of course, cutting the ends off of long scale strings would obviously NOT make them into thicker, medium-scale strings!!!
-
Mark: With what I just read above in your post and understand about strings, I would have to say that just the opposite is true in each instance. None of my instruments are set up that way nor have I ever played one that has been. Just to give ya heads up. ~David
-
This was at the tail end of another discussion, but important details should each have their own thread so they aren't lost or overlooked.
The Signature Deluxe models come standard with hollow core construction these days. I've checked your work order, and it's marked as hollow core.
-
Awesome! Thanks for the confirmation on that Mica. One important thing I can check off and not worry about!
-
Hi Mica & gang!
For mutual benefit, here is the essential info regarding my string spacing, so that you know everything you need to do to accomodate me.
First of all, just for clarification, as far as the taper -is that the term?- the thickness from the BACK of the neck to the FRONT of the fingerboard goes -I DON'T have any specifications; I've been happy with my other Alembics in this regard, and want to default to whatever your standard(s) would be in this regard.
Next, Mica, if I've retained and understood what you conveyed in our previous discussion about string spacing, Alembic's standard procedure it to transition from the centers of the strings being equal distance of each others' centers at the nut, and transitioning to the strings having equal space between each other at the bride/tailpiece.
I wish to entrust such nuances to you -to your experience and judgement.
What I'm 99% set on at this point is that I want my neck to be 2 inches at the nut and 2&3/4 inches at the 24th fret. This is based largely on using my 8-String Europa as a frame of reference.
When I very carefully measure the fingerboard width of my 8-string -JUST FROM THE B to the C STRINGS- it measures almost exactly 2 &1/5th inches at the nut and 2 & 2/3rds at the 24th fret.
The space between strings is pretty close to (average) a little under 5/16ths (of an inch) BETWEEN STRINGS at the nut; a little over 6/16ths (of an inch) at the 24th fret; and just about 7/16ths (of an inch) at the bridge.
Now, even though the spacing on my 8-String is apparently already relatively narrow, I still want it a little more narrow at the nut. Subtracting 1/5th of an inch from the 2.2 inches at the nut puts the strings less than 1/16th of an inch closer together -which comes to exactly a quarter inch between strings (in the paradigm of my 8-String), which is the same as the spacing on my Les Paul, which I have no trouble with at all.
Now I could leave the width at the neck at 2&2/3rds inches, which would be the same as the proportions on my 8-String; but for some reason (not necessarily a logical reason) it seems a little too narrow, and I just requested that it be 2&3/4th at the 24th fret -which is actually only the slightest bit wider (1/12th of an inch, to be exact).
If you have any thoughts/suggestions, please let me know.
Unless you need anything further from me in this regard, I can't see my having anything else to add/change.
Thanks again for everything, I think this just about covers everything except the Coco Bolo, and whether I have the option to get the Essence style asymetrical control configuration. I also saw a picture of a red Essense? that have what looked like a really simple but cool configuration that looked like it might be even better. The 3 knobs were arranged like 3 out of 4 points of a diamond, and then the 3 toggles were arrange in a row where the 4th point would be. I couldn't tell from the picture if the toggles and knobs were laid out totally symetrically as I'd want them to be. If they were, this would be the perfect control configuration. If not/if it's extra/more work/more $ than #2 choice would be the Essense configuration. If that is more time/money, the standard configuration would still please, and be most awesome. So it's all cool, just extra cool if it's no problem to have 1 of those other configurations!
-
Hi Mark,
As you know, we've started building your neck, and it was specified with a 2.0 x 2.75 fingerboard diimension, so that's what we've been building off of. Every decision about the neck laminates is based on the fingerboard dimensions.
The word taper refers to the taper of the fingerboard. Generally, fingerboards are smaller at the nut end than the last fret end, and the taper is in reference to the slope of the lines that describe the outside edges of the board. It's a shorthand to say classic taper or comfort taper and it's explicit to describe the taper by naming the measurements at either end, like in your bass as 2.0 x 2.75.
Our standard method for string spacing is to cut the nut on centers and the bridge on sides. That's because most folks are aiming toward the center of the string with their fretting hand and the edge of the string with their other hand. If you don't specify otherwise, we will set your bass up with this standard method.
When I calculate the bridge spacing of the fingerboard dimensions you ordered, it comes to .45 inch between strings. Your measurements on from your 8-string appear to be .4375, so what you've ordered is slightly wider than your 8-string at the bridge. Here's all the details in a table, it might be easier to interpret everything:
measurement8-string 6-string nut2.22.0 24th fret2.66 2.75 nut c-c.3125.324 bridge e-e.4375.45
If you don't have calipers to collect your measurements, I highly recommend you get some, any good hardware store will have them. If you can't find them locally, there's some on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-142-Dial-Caliper/dp/B00004T7UB). Digital ones are even easier to read. Plastic jaws will dent more easily, but won't be as prone to damage your instrument as steel jaws will.
Also, it's most useful to talk about the spacing at two ends of the bass: nut and bridge spacing. In fact, I'll be happy to calculate the 24th fret dimension if you provide the fingerboard nut width and the bridge string spacing you prefer.
Since you are uncertain about your choices, I have placed a stop on the production of your instrument, because if it goes further and you make changes, they could be costly (like buying another neck or fingerboard). This stop will be lifted once you've got a confident decision about the spacing.
Your personal preferences aren't something I can offer any advice about. If you feel the spacing on your 8-string is wider than you want on the 6-string, then you'll need to tell me how much narrower to make the 6-string.
Let's start another Changes/Additions thread for your electronics question so it doesn't get lost in a sea of fingerboard dimension discussions.
-
Mica, I AM certain about what I want for the string spacing.
As I said, careful measurement of my 8-String indicates that, if I measure out the part of the fingerboard encompassed by the 2 high (F and Bb) strings, what is left measures almost exactly 2.2 inches at the nut, and 2.66 inches at the 24th fret. In other words, if I told a Genie that I wanted to get rid of my two high strings, and convert my 8-String to a 6-String, it would measure 2.2 inches at the nut, and 2.66 at the 24th fret. This includes the .15 inch dropoff Valentino described in our conversations... the space from the side of the string to the edge of the fingerboard.
I'm CERTAIN that I want the nut to be 2 inches wide. Now, as stated, I did choose to slightly round up (1/12th of an inch) and SLIGHTLY increase the fingerboard width at the nut to 2.75 inches. This was not based on any lack of certainty, as such, but rather on a (perhaps irrational?) fear that the neck wouldn't be wide enough (by which, I mean, structurally sound... no weaker than normal for an Alembic bass neck).
But that begs the question, doesn't it? Do you see any structural issue/concern with this relatively narrow neck? Because I'll tell you, I'm 100% confident in the string spacing I've spec'd. But... y'know what? While I'm perfectly content if we were to stick with the spec's I've stated, I will/would change the neck width to 2&2/3rds instead... SO LONG AS THERE IS NO STRUCTURAL CONCERN. I really don't see it being an issue either way (assuming there is no structural issue).
I'd say my string spacing -for my 8-String- is just right at the 24th fret, and slightly too wide at the nut. I'm CERTAIN about this... very certain. Now the nuances and subtleties of transitioning from the center-to-center spacing at the nut to the edge-to-edge spacing at the bridges... well, for that, I'm relying on you and your expertise. I'll defer to what you think.
I know this sounds pathetic (which may be because it maybe IS pathetic) but I didn't get the calipers 'cause I'm broke, and got what I thought would be adaquate measurements with my near-sighted eyes (which see VERY well at point-blank range) and a tape measure that measures up to 32cnds of an inch.
Now, you ARE the doctor... and I won't argue with the doctor. If, for whatever reason, you deem it essential/necessary for you to treat me/my bass, I'll go get the freakin' calipers and follow your instructions to get you whatever information you need. It seems to me like the info I've got should be sufficient... but, I'm not the doctor. So if you disagree, and for some reason that I may or may not grasp right now, feel these things are essential to you meeting my needs, then no argument/reasoning is necessary... just tell me they're essential, and then tell me what to do when I get them. There's a new hardware store across the street, and if you feel my spending $12-20 on these caliper things is essential, I'll go get 'em. Today.
I'm not sure what would be the point, since I AM sure that I want this bass to be 2 inches at the nut, and either 2&2/3rds or 2&3/4ths at the nut. (But I don't/wouldn't dismiss the possibility that there might be some reason I'm not aware of!)
I'm deferring to your recommendations regarding the center-to-center and edge-to-edge transition thing.
So... boiled down, I just have two questions at this point: (1) do you see there being any structure concern/issue with the neck not being wide enough with my specifications? Would this neck be significantly weaker/more subject to shifting as a result of temperature, humidity changes, etc... than a more typical, wider neck profile? If there are no structural concerns, then I would actually SLIGHTLY modify my original specs and say let's go with 2 inches at the nut, and 2&2/3rds at the 24th fret. Either way, it's only a 1/12th of an inch; (2) do you deem it essential for me to get these caliper things? If you do, I will... but... what would I do with them? I assume I'd measure the distance between strings... (what else would I do with them?). I'm not sure what you'd do with this info/need it for... but if you deem it necessary, I'll go get 'em -'cause I don't want my bass put on hold. I KNOW what I want!!!
There's a new hardward store across the street... my other half thinks it's an ACE... and we have a Home Depot about 2 miles away. If you think the caliper things are essential, I'll call 'em up first to see if they have 'em.
Otherwise... I'm ready to go. 2 inches at the nut, and I'll slightly modify the 24th fret to 2&2/3rds inches (which is only a 1/12th inch deviance from the original spec).
One thing I was confused about was your table -specifically how the string spacing at the nut seemed to be WIDER at the nut -despite the MORE NARROW fingerboard. (How can the distance between the centers of the strings be GREATER on a [reduced width] fingerboard of 2 inches [at the nut] than the distance [center to center} of the strings on my 8-String [as a 6-string with the nut measuring 2.2 inches]?) I read and re-read this several times, and concluded that either you put in an incorrect figure, or I'm misinterpreting something/reasoning incorrectly... because obviously there is no way you could NARROW the width of the fingerboard and INCREASE the distance between strings... but your chart indicates a GREATER (c-c) distance on the strings (from the 8-String to the 6-String) even though the neck is actually a 5th of an inch NARROWER.
I want to do everything possible to clarify this, so the bass is not on hold any longer than necessary!!!
Thanks again for everything, you folks are the best!!!
-
Mica, just got off the phone with you & my eye is out for the procedure(s)/measurements you'll be needing me to measure with the calipers.
I forgot to ask... how wide -in inches- is the inner core of my neck... the inner 9 laminates within the outer Mahogany neck laminates?
I'm really curious and am dying of curiousity. The laminates seemed like the standard width of those on my Europa, Elan, and most other Alembics I've seen... but it's hard to judge the size/width from the pictures...
-
For the 8-string measurements in your table, I simply converted your supplied fractional measurement to decimal for comparison. After speaking with you today, I realize that I misunderstood what you you measuring, so that table isn't useful now.
Here's a table to compare the two propsed fingerboard dimensions:
locationoriginalreviseddelta nut2.02.00 24th2.752.67-.08 nut c-c.324.3240 bridge e-e.45.43-.02
Now, to compare these numbers to your 8-string bass, you should collect these measurements for me:
1. Entire fingerboard width at the nut. Measure this as close to the nut as you can with the large jaws, but do not measure the nut itself as it is generally slightly bigger.
2. Entire fingerboard width at the 24th fret - your bass has more frets, but measure at the 24th with the large jaws.
3. Space between strings at the bridge. Measure with the smaller jaws right up against the bridge saddle, taking care both sides of the jaw are on the thickest part of the string, not the valley between wraps.
4. Tell me the sizes of the strings on your 8-string bass.
The reason for doing all this measuring and calculation is that we want to make sure the bass comes out exactly as you envision it. All the toruble will be worth it.
-
I see your post in front of me, and will now collect the measurements in the order you've specified:
(1) Fingerboard right next to nut = 2 & 15/16ths
(2) Fingerboard at 24th fret = 3 & 33/64ths
(3) Space between strings at bridge:
E-A=13/32; A-D=14/32; D-G=14/32; G-C=27/64
(space between C-F & F-Bb = 14/32 for both).
(4) I'm not sure of my string size off the top
of my head; I used the (LaBella, I think?)
strings you supplied. But you had the
specifications posted on my COTM feature.
Do you need me to measure the strings?
-
I would only need you to measure the strings if there were different from the original ones, since I need the string diameters for calculations that are edge-to-edge. It doesn't matter when calculating center-to-center.
locationoriginalrevised8-string nut2.02.02.9375 24th2.752.673.52 nut c-c.324.324.366 bridge e-e.45.43.44
So, looking at these measurements, the nut will be tighter spacing than your 8-string, which you indicated you wanted. The bridge will be ever so slightly tighter spacing with your revised dimensions.
Now we can know what we're comparing, and you'll be able to give me the go-ahead based on some real data without having to guess. So let me know what dimensions you want on your 6-string and I'll get the work order adjusted.
-
Mica, I went ahead and measured the strings best I could with the large jaws at the 24th fret; I could get the jaws around the strings. These are the best I could eye out, since the calipers only go up to 32nds of an inch -although spaces between notches allow for 64ths to be reasonably estimated.
My B string is about 4/32, the E's about 3/32, the A's about 5/64, the D's about 1/16, the G's a hair under 3/64, and the C's a hair under 1/32.
Copying the specifications on my Custom Feature in the Archives, it says there my strings are (supposedly) .128, .105, .080, .065, .045, .030 (and, it seems irrelevant, but .020 & .013 for the high F and Bb strings).
For clarification/ to make sure we're on the same page, my previous conversations with Valentino on the subject had led me to conclude that I wanted this bass to be set up with the standard Alembic 6-String long scale bass strings you use.
This is because (A) you recommend them; and (B) I'm assuming I'll be able to call you anytime and order spare/replacement sets.
Unless this is incorrect, or you have some other option you want me to consider/think I should consider, then I want to have the bass set up with your standard long-scale Alembic 6-string set strings... and use their measurements as your frame of reference.
Thank's again for your dedication to detail. I have to leave for work in a minute, but I'll check this out first thing when I get home, and hopefully we'll be able to confirm the final details regarding string spacing tomorrow, and get the hold on my bass lifted!
Oh, yes, again, how wide is the inner core -the inner 9 laminates of the neck? I'm really curious. How wide are the individual laminates?
-
Hi Mica! That string spacing looks fine with me. I just got home and checked in here first thing. After going over and averaging the distance between all but the B & E strings, I found the average distance (at the bridge) to be .4257 or .43, rounded up... exactly what's on your chart! So this should be fine with me.
So, we've got all the details/puzzle pieces for a working plan now, right? The fingerboard'll be 2 inches at the nut, 2 & 2/3rds at the 24th fret, with the distance between strings (edge to edge -at the bridge) being .43 inches.
This sounds perfect to me! The only possible concern I'd have is: would this result in a severe inconsistancy in the dropoff... the distance from the edge of the 2 outer strings to the edge of the fingerboard? Val told me that your standard is to have .15 inches from the edge of the outer strings to the edge of the fingerboard. Now it's actually slightly lopsided on my 8-String. I never paid much attention to it, but I measured it today, and I found the dropoff to be about an 8th of an inch on the B side, but almost 3/16th on the Bb side!
But it's not a problem at all.
This is the only thing I can think of. If any aspect of this string spacing would result in a significant deviation from the .15 inch dropoff.
So long as this is not a concern -as I'm assuming it's not- then let's go full speed ahead!
Let the hold be lifted!
Thanks Mica! Talk to you tomorrow!
-
The string spacing was calculated with .15 offset on either side of the fingerboard as measured from the outside edge of the string to the outside edge of the fingerboard.
On your 8-string, we probably allowed slightly more room on the highest string since it would have a tendancy to slip off the edge is positioned as closely as we usually do. Redoing my calculations with this new offset on the treble side and the measurement of your bridge spacing makes them come even closer to your measured fingerboard size, so I'm very happy with the quality of th new information.
So, I hereby confirm your new neck dimensions of 2.0 x 2.67 with bridge spacing of .43 between the strings.
-
Fabulous! Awesome! Deal!
So... the hold is lifted, then?
-
The hold is not yet lifted. You've got a pending question as to the body shape.
-
Gotcha. Thanks. But this issue is resolved! Yay!