Alembic Guitars Club
Alembic products => Owning an Alembic => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: SuperBASSaNova on April 21, 2024, 02:16:57 AM
-
Dear Alembic community,
This is my beloved "new" Rogue:
(https://i.postimg.cc/wMsZLMvs/IMG-0542.jpg)
Now, the saddle under the B string became a bit loose and I tried to tighten it, however, I dont seem have the right tools/keys for doing so.
Can you advise me on which key gauge to use (images below)?
(https://i.postimg.cc/5NsKy8pk/IMG-0722.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/cC4MGbq1/IMG-0721.jpg)
Thanks a lot for your help!
-
Does the saddle vibrate/ move when the B string is tuned and resting on the saddle?
-
Hey pauldo,
Yes, thats the issue. It not really a problem when I play the B string with my index and middle fingers ('upward' movement), but when I plug it with my thumb ('downward' movement, e.g. during palmmuting) then it moves a bit... with more force it gives a sublte clanking noise.
Best,
Philipp
-
There's an FAQ section, with a sticky thread on Adjustment Key Sizes (Tools) (https://club.alembic.com/index.php?topic=200.0).
-
Dear adriaan,
That looks helpful thanks. I imagine that from this list I would need the:
"intonation: 7/64 hex driver, ball end recommended"
and maybe for the other end:
"bridge aircraft fasteners: 5/32"
...but I dont really have an idea what this is.
What do you think?
Best,
Philipp
-
The aircraft fasteners are the small nuts on the other end of the adjustment screws.
You might want to consider buying the bridge rehab kit if the adjustment screws are a bit rusty.
Get the kit, some Flitz, and you can get the bridge looking amazing.
-
I see you're in Germany, and those inch sizes of hex drivers may look insane if you're used to mm sizes for the same. But if you check Amazon for Bondhus hex drivers, imperial sizes, you will notice that the crazy numbers are actually pretty standard. I got a set for less than 20 euros.
Of course g-dude's suggestion of getting the "bridge rehab kit" is excellent as well. https://store.turbify.net/alembic/parts.html
-
Ah that's already some great advise, guys. Thanks!
For the aircraft fasteners, what tool would I use to tighten those or hold them firmly? I'm a bit afraid rubbing them off by using just a forceps.
-
Ah that's already some great advise, guys. Thanks!
For the aircraft fasteners, what tool would I use to tighten those or hold them firmly? I'm a bit afraid rubbing them off by using just a forceps.
A small wrench or pliers would probably be fine. I forget what I used exactly but nothing bad happened.
-
Correct tools are valuable.
Might be wise to do a full tear down, clean and then inspect for wear.
Wondering if the saddle threaded hole and guide hole may have wear?
-
Welcome to the community. Happy to hear you are enjoying that bass but sorry you're having this difficulty.
Understand that this hex-headed bolt with the aircraft nut on the other side is meant to be moveable. It's how you intonate the string, by moving the bridge saddle back and forth on the threaded bolt. So it's not meant to be super tight and does not actually secure the bridge saddle in the way you may be thinking.
While you have the string off that saddle, do you feel movement? Is the saddle loose and moving because of wear? What you describe with the "clanking noise" may mean the saddle is slightly lifting off the bolt and snapping back down as you release the string - which of course is not supposed to happen.
As a temporary fix, once you get the saddle into the right position for the string to be intonating correctly (see those setup instructions) if the saddle is still loose then you could wedge a small shim of wood between the "low side" of the saddle and the edge of bridge to essentially lock it into place. The next step beyond that temporary fix would be to rebuild the bridge, or at least replace that saddle.
Meanwhile, keep playing that thing!
Jimmy J
-
Also, make sure it is the saddle making noise. Maybe the crossbar screw on the end needs tightening.
-
Again, super valuable input from you guys.
Let me share a short vide with you, to help with the diagnostics. I thought its because of the screw being a bit loose, but please have a look:
https://streamable.com/6b48qe
-
Yeah, it shouldn't be wiggling that much so your initial idea is worth trying. See if you can find a way to hold that "aircraft" nut and tighten the bolt a bit to reduce that movement. Again, not super tight but tighter than it appears to be. To hold that nut I once used a channel-lock pliers set to work as two parallel sides about the right size. I know, wrong tool but it did the job. For the bolt it doesn't need to be a ball-end driver but that makes it more convenient. You can use a regular 7/64 hex or Allen key (I believe 3mm should also work) but you just need to be careful about not scratching the bass.
Let us know how it goes.
Jimmy J
-
Great, I will give it a try as soon as I got my hands on such a 7/64 hex key and report back.
Thanks again for all your help.
PS: I'm a big fan of yours, Jimmy. Your playing is just sooo so tasteful... always surprising, yet every next note you play sounds to me like there cannot be another. Deeply impacting. Truely inspiring.
-
Thanks for the kind words Philipp.
Jimmy J
-
Nice photography, BTW!
-
Thanks!
Now, a brief feedback:
Tightening the saddle screw worked quite well. I had to detach the bridge though, in order to hold the aircraft nut firmly. As Jimmy, I used a small channel-lock plier for that. For the other end I used a 7/64 hex key. Moreover, I applied a bit of cleaner on the aircraft nut to make it go easier - that also helped with the procedure.
I can still move the saddle for adjustment, but the saddle is not wiggling anymore while playing - so the job was successful :)
Thank again for all you helpful advice.
Best,
Philipp
-
That's great to hear. Did the clanking from playing with your thumb stop too?
Ken
-
Yay! Excellent work and a good result. Now enjoy playing that bass!
Jimmy J
-
Definitely! That bass always gives me pure joy :)
@Ken: Yep. No more clanking!