Alembic Guitars Club
Alembic products => Alembic Basses & Guitars => Topic started by: Mlazarus on June 17, 2023, 04:03:58 PM
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So, as you all know, some owners of older series 1 basses tend to move the selector switch.
I'm thinking about doing this. How many of you think it will diminish the value of the bass?
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Personally I would not do anything that can not be reversed later.
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Unlike old Strats and Les Pauls, “100% original” isn’t nearly as important a factor with Alembics since they are made in such small numbers and few are exactly alike. I don’t think changing it will hurt value to any significant extent. On my ‘76 Series I MSG I found my pinky hitting the point on the selector switch on the horn. I reversed the pointer knob so the pointy part is facing down. Solved the problem.
Bill, tgo
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I open hand slap, so my hand hits the whole selector. I noticed guys on YouTube who slap have their selector moved to the other switch sections.
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I slap on my series shorty and i changed the switch to round switch without the point. It works for me but maybe my technique is different to yours.
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I can pop with no problem, but I have an open full hand technique that needs space.
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I will tag on to Bill’s statement about “100% original isn’t nearly as important”.
My .02.
Alembics are essential all custom made. Being hand crafted no two are exactly alike. Sure there are templates used and defined electronic packages installed, there are also constantly evolving ‘improvements’ being made and no two instruments ever use the exact same piece of wood, hand sanding and finishing brings a uniqueness to each instrument. Altering a feature does not mean a decrease of value* it only redefines the “custom” aspect.
*value is rather subjective as noted in the For Sale section - people will pay whatever the instrument is worth to them, the individual, not on some type of scorecard rating system.
Do whatever you want to get more joy out of your bass. David’s point has validity, if you are planning on selling your bass. Alternatively if a prospective buyer has a similar playing style to yours… the value of the modification just improved!
Good luck with your decision.
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I personally would not care about the switch being relocated as long as it wasn't a hack job. But this is the real world, and here is what will happen when you try to sell it... a prospective buyer, who most likely plans to flip it anyway, will lowball you because of it. Sure, you can wait for a buyer who is exactly the player who wants exactly that mod. Just be aware, it might be a little bit.
Here's one I played one time with that switch mod. This '77 Series I had several other mods during her long, strange trip, so a switch move wasn't a big deal.
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Very good points People. I think I will make the move. ONE aspect to remember though: My bass was owned by TM Stevens. He is a well-known session bassist from NYC. Look him up. He switched from Alembic in 83' to play Warwicks. He has TM Stevens Warwick Signature basses marketed. So, as the seller of my once-owned TM Stevens series 1, if I do sell it (Not going to) it comes with TM's original Paperwork with his Signature and personal info. I'm sure some buyer would make many statements about the value. On one hand, the value will/may be high, because it was TM's, but on the other hand, someone may say "OOHH, you 'tampered' with this TM Stevens bass! So, I you devalued it! Well....Then I won't tell you I moved the selector switch! how's that for you?! LOL.
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So move the switch to the spot like the one above; this is approximately where a future Master Volume pot would go. If you wanted to return the switch to its original location later, have a MV added in the vacant hole. Most I think would consider that an upgrade modification.
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What is the Master volume connection configuration for this bass? That's a good idea, but if I use the old selector section, I will have to make sure the MV dial is very short. Almost like the thickness of two quarters, so my hand won't get in the way. OR...make it an LED light.
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This photo shows where the pickup selector is typically located on newer basses. Some people move the selector from the lower horn to this position on older basses. I don’t think moving the selector to this position would affect the value if done properly.
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I think you have to ask yourself, “why did I purchase this bass?” If the main reason was as I suspect, to enjoy playing it and the experience of the Alembic sound, then do whatever you need to do to maximize the enjoyment you feel when playing the bass (I.e., move the switch). If you purchased the bass primarily as an investment and hope to make a profit from selling it in the near future, then keep as is. Regardless of what you do, I think you will fine that it’s value as an Alembic (modded or not) FAR Outweighs whatever value people will attribute to it as a former bass of a session musician.
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Way back when I worked at Alembic the Tom Fowler S1 came through the shop. Selector switch had been moved as suggested above, and the hole filled with a British coin. Very stylish.
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Way back when I worked at Alembic the Tom Fowler S1 came through the shop. Selector switch had been moved as suggested above, and the hole filled with a British coin. Very stylish.
I recall a thread that shows that mod - super cool!
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It makes sense that a COLLECTER would want to maintain the original appearance, but as a player, yes,
move it to where you can play as comfortably as possible. I think I'll get it done. English coin, funny.
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Mica, Can you send me an instructional diagram of how to move and cut the holes for the selector switch if possible. I want to give it to the Luthiers in my area, because,
they are concerned about the procedure, due to the value of this series 1. I greatly appreciate them being adamant about this plan of work. They want it done right. They price is estimated at $200-$400.
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I can send you an English coin if you are thinking of covering the old position with one. :-)
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Michael,
Once the rotary switch is detached from the brass mounting plate it can be (gently) pulled into the electronics cavity via the wiring loom. No soldering necessary in a repositioning operation!
One thing to note though ... This switch is "keyed" in that it has two flat sides to the threaded mounting shaft. Take a close look at the hole in the brass plate and you'll see it's not completely round but "keyed" to match. This is because twisting the switch through its positions and to its end stops can take more torque than simply turning a pot. So this "keying" is to keep the switch itself from rotating from that torque. I'm not sure if that kind of flat-sided hole made in wood can have the same security as the brass mounting plate, but that might be an option. I am also curious to know what the factory does when mounting this switch in that alternate location - do they ever use a backplate inside the cavity?
Jimmy J
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Jazzy--Thank you for the offer. An English coin. Nice appeal.
Jimmy-- I can show this info to the Luthiers, but I may wait to find out what Alembic has to say, as you wondered yourself.
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Jazzy, Show me the English coin. LOL.
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Take your pick.
https://oncampus.global/ugc-1/fullnews/news/2557/2601_original.jpg (https://oncampus.global/ugc-1/fullnews/news/2557/2601_original.jpg)
The queen's profile is on the other side.
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Wow, educational! I like the 10 pence and 2 pounds. Which ones match the diameter of the selector switch plate the best?
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The last thing you want to add to a Series bass is 2 pounds.
;D
I'm here all week... tip your waitresses.
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Wow, educational! I like the 10 pence and 2 pounds. Which ones match the diameter of the selector switch plate the best?
I will measure the diameters for you though it's worth pointing out that the £2 coin is quite thick.
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This coin is an exact fit I tried once for fun.
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which coin is that gtrguy?
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All I know is what is on it!
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pic