Alembic Guitars Club
Alembic products => Owning an Alembic => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: el8ed on August 14, 2021, 05:05:43 PM
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Not sure if this is the right place for posting this, but in a way it is a troubleshooting success—because: Flitz works!
I used it for the first time today to clean up the back covers of my new-to-me Series 1 SSB named “Honey”. They have been in a sorry state of quite some time as previous for sale ads show. To get all the crud off I used 1000 grit sandpaper and then went to town with Flitz and a soft towel. For protection I added a light coating of V05.
Before and after photos below.
Oh, and there is a question after all: What is the best way to get the coating off of brass bridge parts and tail piece before polishing? Sandpaper would be a big no-no I guess. Thanks!
Cheers, Oliver
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Outstanding job!!
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Lookin’ good!
Bill, tgo
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Looking very smart!
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8)
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Paint stripper will remove the clear coat. Be sure to clean it afterwards with a good thinner. you can then polish and re-clean and paint it with new clear or leave the brass bare.
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Thanks David!
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Well this is getting more interesting all the time…
Yesterday I took off the bridge and tailpiece for polishing and see this ugly lump of undefinable stuff in the top wood. (photo #1) I take a guess that I am looking at the famed Alembic sustain block but there is no screw to hold it in place and I cannot fathom that Alembic would let something so hideous leave the factory. I look at me Series II SSB and lo and behold the “mounting plate” for the bridge is all shiny (chrome in this case). So I shoot an email to Mica asking if I could purchase such a nice shiny brass cover for the sustain block thinking that someone must have misplaced it in Honey’s storied history.
Shout-out for amazing Alembic Customer Service!!!
15 minutes later my phone rings—it’s Mica—she expresses her confusion about my inquiry because there is and never was a cover for the sustain block on Alembics, not even ancient ones. She advises me that unless someone has epoxied the sustain block in place it should come out easy for cosmetic attention. Again, a HUGE thank you to Mica!!!
So this morning I thread the bridge screws into the sustain block and start to gently pull. It does not take much force and I hear a soft snap and the sustain block comes out … and looks as if it was dragged out of a cows behind.
Well, 2 hours of elbow grease and patience and it looks a bit better. (Photo #2)
Oh yes, I polished the bird too.
More to come...
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And while I am waiting for bits and pieces to arrive from the good people at Alembic I disassembled the bridge and let the Flitz flow generously.
Before (yuck) and after (jewelry) photos below — enjoy!
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Moto Dremel makes small polishing disks for their tools that make short work of polishing up small brass items. Mothers aluminium polish will work well as the polish on brass.
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Moto Dremel makes small polishing disks for their tools that make short work of polishing up small brass items. Mothers aluminium polish will work well as the polish on brass.
Power tools—oh boy! I am not that smart. ??? :o
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With the Dremel tool you can polish brass in a couple minutes what might take quite a while by hand. They make polishing buffing disks that works like a charm.
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Just be careful and gentle. It’s quite easy to go a little far with the Dremel and leave scars in the brass. (Don’t ask how I know this!)
Bill, tgo
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Thank you both! Great advise, as always. 8)
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Just for completeness sake I would like to add that I also “flitzed” the clear coat all over the bass with great results, if I might say so myself.
There were “cloudy” patches all over the surface that did not come off with cleaning or guitar polish so I got all my courage together and applied a bit of Flitz to the back of the bass with a soft cloth. To my delight the “cloudy” spots vanished along with all kind of pesky little dots and spots. I took off all the buttons and proceeded to do the whole bass. Not only did the spots vanish, but the wood color and texture took on a whole new level of glow. I think it was worth the effort.
Since I do not ye know if the coating on “Honey” is factory original or has been applied at a later date I’d caution anyone who feels compelled to imitate me to try first in an inconspicuous spot. YMMV as a wise man once said. ;)
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It's also kinda fun to get some wide painters tape and carefully mask off the frets (I do one at a time and then move the tape to the next one) and use 0000 super fine steel wool and gently polish the frets if they need it. Good time to apply real lemon oil to the fret board as well. Just do a search under 'lemon oil' on here for instructions.
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Thanks for the tips David! Lemon oil was the first thing I applied to the fretboard after the strings came off, but polishing the frets sounds like a great idea. I don’t have any steel wool around, but I’ll see if Flitz is up for the job. This also gives me a chance to have a closer look at the B natural octave on the G string, which sometimes craps out and sounds a C.
Cheers, Oliver
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And just in case anyone is curious if this really works—the proof is in the pudding. A little hard to photograph the shine of the frets, but here it is.
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that's real Purdy!
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Well, the friendly postman brought a care package from the good folks at Alembic with all the goodies to get Honey back together to her full glory.
Here is the first success story—the bridge and tailpiece before and after. See photos.
Cheers, Oliver
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Wow!
Talk about night and day.
Nice job.