Alembic Guitars Club
Connecting => Miscellaneous => Topic started by: jalevinemd on January 02, 2017, 10:59:07 AM
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When oiling your fretboard, how long do you typically wait after the initial application before you wipe the board down?
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Until the smell of the lemon makes me hungry to the point I want to eat the bass.
I have no specific length of time. I just wait until it looks like the fretboard isn't absorbing anymore then rub it down.
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My humble experience is... until it isn't absorbed anymore!! I bought a new '09 in '11, and initially the board just soaked up the lemon oil quickly. Since then, it has slowed down a bit, and at least in the summer (I do it twice a year) I'm able to quickly buff it out.
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That's more or less what I've been doing. I switched over from lemon oil to Bore Doctor several years ago. Why? Because at the time, I was playing my Les Pauls almost exclusively and everyone over at the Les Paul Forum swore by the stuff.
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I generally do one oiling before bed and leave it over night then another one in the morning then wipe off when I get home from work and re-string.
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I was always worried about the effects on the neck from having the strings off for such a long period of time. Perhaps it's an unfounded concern.
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If it's a guitar that's never been oiled before, and that has likely not been oiled for many years, it will soak up the lemon oil very quickly, certainly in less than five minutes. First I oil and then rub the board with a paper towell or synthetic sponge scrubby material to clean off all accumulated finger gunk. Then I let it absorb and oil again. I'll keep doing this as long as the board keeps sucking it up. When it takes 5-10 minutes to absorb the oil, I'm done oiling. Then I put the old strings back on and play it. I do this because, in my experience, the newly oiled board with cause the strings to blacken at first. Then, a day or two later, I restring with new strings.
Bill, tgo
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I was always worried about the effects on the neck from having the strings off for such a long period of time. Perhaps it's an unfounded concern.
Completely unfounded: the strings don't hold it together.
Over the decades I have had occasion to put string on several instruments - at least one each solid-body, semi-hollow, bass, acoustic, and Third Man Zither Jr. - that had been unstrung for years. Standard set up & Bob's yer uncle.
Peter (actually the Zither Jr. is still on my bench half-strung as I type)
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Good reminder!
I used to worry about leaving an instrument completely unstrung - I would always change my strings one at a time - but realized that, with my Alembic at least, it doesn't matter - I do like to take of the strings from the outside in, so on my 5-string I do the B first, then G, then E, then D, then A - I also put the new ones on in similar order - not sure if it's necessary but it makes me feel better!
I think I want a new set of strings for the 5-string - might want to replace one of the bridge-pieces, so that would be a good time to oil too...
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Another "old wive's tale", (gee, can I even say that anymore?), is the one about loosening strings to ship a guitar. The most informed sources I've spoken with and read, along with my own experience, debunks loosening for transport.
Bill, tgo
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What I have been told by international shippers, is that it is best to just de-tune the strings, so it can handle sudden stresses in both directions. If you loosen the strings completely, and the instrument is stuck in customs for any length if time, you risk back bow if there is tension on the truss rod.
Joe
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I'm with Bill on that one. I've travelled quite a bit with my guitars overseas including USA Canada and the Far East and always tuned to standard pitch and not had any problems. Also basses that have been shipped to me in the UK have arrived in tune or very close to that and one was from a store and they have been fine.
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Is lemon oiling recommended for freboard woods other than ebony (e.g., rosewood)?
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Is lemon oiling recommended for freboard woods other than ebony (e.g., rosewood)?
I dunno, but I have done so with no problems. Martin, on the other hand, recommends against lemon oil, but I believe that's because of its effect on binding.
Peter
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This is a nice summary on various oils from the Fret Doctor website. As I mentioned, I've been using their bore oil on my fretboards exclusively, since first hearing of it about 10 years ago on the Les Paul Forum.
Fret Doctor (http://www.beafifer.com/boredoctor.htm)
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Thanks, Peter, I will do some more reading on the subject.
Jonathan, I will check out the link you provided and products they list, thanks!
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Interesting info. However they don't really cover the food-grade type lemon oil that Alembic recommends. I've always been very pleased with the results I get using lemon oil on both ebony and rosewood boards. One thing I feel compelled to mention, I am against using linseed oil (the type of oil used in oil-based paint). Admittedly this is for personal reasons- I highly allergic to it, to the point where exposure to a guitar that has been treated with linseed oil can put me into anaphylactic shock. Over the holidays I received a 1960's Custom Kraft Super Zapp in green burst. (A VERY cool guitar). I had been looking for one for several years. Unfortunately, after handling it, my eyes puffed up with the left one almost closed and I had difficulty breathing. A trip to the doctor, some meds, and I'm almost all better. Unfortunately I will have to sell the guitar and keep searching.
Bill, tgo
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I couldn't find much about cleaning away linseed oil to prevent future allergic response. I've seen pics of you after a linseed reaction, and I can say I'm sorry to hear you had to go through that again!
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With Alembics, I would not worry a lot about the neck doing tricks whilst unstrung. The 1/4" ebony fingerboard plus the laminations are generally plenty stout and tend to not move a lot, barring the occasional brand-new build that is still a little flexible, relative to your older guitars that have stabilized to a mature state. I've had less complex necks that were flexible flyers (Fender-style maple on maple necks . . . . ), but that's a long way from your Alembics, structurally.
Strangely enough, you can kind of test that flexibility . . . . . chime a harmonic chord, then reach around and press the back of the head to see if you can get a tremolo like wobble. If you have to press like hell to get any wobble at all, it's really stable, and it's usually hard to get an Alembic to do that. Not scientific at all, but indicative.
Joey