Alembic Guitars Club
Alembic products => Alembic Basses & Guitars => Topic started by: bassjigga on July 07, 2009, 02:57:59 PM
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Ok, I am pretty good at setting up my basses to my liking. I find the nut slots a bit high on my Europa and the nut is as low as it goes. Would it make sense to remove it and lightly file the flat surface underneath rather than the actual string slots? It is plated, so that will remove the plating.
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I would, but I am not the expert on Alembic nuts. You can place some wet sandpaper on top of flat glass and then rub the bottom of the nut over it. That's how we do the shims on a Jaguar head if they are too thick.
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It seems there are several Alembic Nuts around, but I can't help either...
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I thought we're all Alembic nuts??!!!
Bill, tgo
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One of my '82s has a non-adjustable nut and the G string slot was cut a tad high for my taste. I used a hacksaw to add depth to the slot since the width was about right. For the other strings you'd probably have to use metal files. Stop every two or three strokes, re-tighten the string and check the height.
Filing the nut from the bottom would seem like a quick fix, but if you sand at even a slight angle you'll ruin the nut.
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I have done it a few times . I would suggest investing in a set of nice jewellers files to have tools that will do the job. Kungfusheriff is right, any deviation in angle will ruin the nut. Set up and measurement and marking is king in such a procedure in addition to the viewing angle during the work . I like to set up and mark the nut in the bass and then remove it and do the work in a small vice.
That is the way that i have done it before . That may not be the right way a luthier would do it but it worked for me .
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I am contemplating having my nut filed as well. This is for my Series I guitar, not a bass. The problem I have noticed is that for my G string, it is in tune open and at the 12th fret, but an A played at the second fret is pretty sharp. I figured the nut slot was too high. Does that sound reasonable?
Todd.
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I assume that alembic nuts are cut to match the finger board radius. It might complicate things a bit. My father is a machinist, and I can envision any number of ways we might have attacked this sort of problem. If I had a mill at my disposal, I would probably build a jig for the nut by drilling and tapping the proper number of holes in a plate of steel, and attaching the nut using them, flat-side up. I would then verify with a gauge attached to the Collett of the end mill that the nut was parallel to the work surface. I would then proceed to remove a modest amount of metal in several passes, until the piece was reduced to the desired thickness. This would probably be the ideal way. Short of that, I would probably use nice files as described above, or see if you couldn't order a nut blank of reduced size from alembic, cut your slots, and have it plated. Probably not the easiest solutions, but it is what comes to mind for me.